Looking for S&S557G TTS Map

[Tuccandler]

I have seen a few posts about the S&S 557 cams and decided after doing some research that they fit my riding style. I have the MasterTune TTS, AN Stage 1 Breather & Freedom Performance true duals. I have set up the TTS for this minus the Cams and it runs good. Adding the Cams sure would be easier if I can find a base map with:
1. Stage 1 A/C
2. Performance exhaust
3. S&S 557 Chain or Gear

 

[onahog]

Ask the Wiz...He may have mine...
2009 Triglide..
557 S & S ezy start cams, S/E air cleaner, Joker machine SS steel Mufflers, NO cat 09 headpipes., blue TTS dongle.
Mine runs AWESOME , tuned by Wiz
ThumbUp

 

[msocko3]

Ask the Wiz...He may have mine...
2009 Triglide..
557 S & S ezy start cams, S/E air cleaner, Joker machine SS steel Mufflers, NO cat 09 headpipes., blue TTS dongle.
Mine runs AWESOME , tuned by Wiz
ThumbUp

An 09 map won't work in a 13, in 2010 they went to Lambda vs AFR which your 09 uses.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

An 09 map won't work in a 13, in 2010 they went to Lambda vs AFR which you 09 uses.

If you have the time and are willing to do the conversation from afr tables front and rear to the lambda tables front and rear it can be done

 

[onahog]

Goes to show what I no about it...LOL...
That's why the Wiz did mine, and too perfection I must Say!
HaNkB...
:Coffee:

 

[Mr.Wizard]

:xzqxz:I have seen a few posts about the S&S 557 cams and decided after doing some research that they fit my riding style. I have the MasterTune TTS, AN Stage 1 Breather & Freedom Performance true duals. I have set up the TTS for this minus the Cams and it runs good.
Adding the Cams sure would be easier if I can find a base map with:
1. Stage 1 A/C
2. Performance exhaust
3. S&S 557 Chain or Gear

Grab the DUH009 calibration and load it in. See the TTS/D PDF in my sig file and follow the directions.

The 255 cam and the S&S 557 specs are very close but your IVC should be set at 3. That's the main difference between the two cams. You will need to remove about 2.5* of timing for both cylinders in the cruising ranges. Do that like the attached picture. Don't worry about the higher RPM ranges until VTune 3 comes out.

 

[Tuccandler]

Grab the DUH009 calibration and load it in. See the TTS/D PDF in my sig file and follow the directions.

The 255 cam and the S&S 557 specs are very close but your IVC should be set at 3. That's the main difference between the two cams. You will need to remove about 2.5* of timing for both cylinders in the cruising ranges. Do that like the attached picture. Don't worry about the higher RPM ranges until VTune 3 comes out.

Thanks Guys and Wiz I'll be all over it June 19th. Hopefully all goes well without me bothering you with multiple emails but either way I know you'll be there if needed. thanks for the last info it runs good. I just want a few extra ponies for the Sturgis run, that's where te S&S come into play.

 

[Tuccandler]

Grab the DUH009 calibration and load it in. See the TTS/D PDF in my sig file and follow the directions.

The 255 cam and the S&S 557 specs are very close but your IVC should be set at 3. That's the main difference between the two cams. You will need to remove about 2.5* of timing for both cylinders in the cruising ranges. Do that like the attached picture. Don't worry about the higher RPM ranges until VTune 3 comes out.

Wiz,

1. when I open the Spark Advance the graph is filled in for the Map you suggested. Do I simply subtract the 2.5* from the number in the cells that you have indicated?
   
2. Also used Cam tool to set IVO at 5, just slightly earlier than the S&S 557. IVC set @ 3 per your directions. S&S opens 6.0/26.5 & closes at 38.8/12.4
   
3. Only thing left to do is set the -2.5* in the proper cells. Your graph shows all 0.0 except for the adjusted cells.
   

A little help would save me some time. I have read your TTS/D and the TTS manual but alas the fog is still there preventing clear vision.............

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Wiz,

1. when I open the Spark Advance the graph is filled in for the Map you suggested. Do I simply subtract the 2.5* from the number in the cells that you have indicated?
   
2. Also used Cam tool to set IVO at 5, just slightly earlier than the S&S 557. IVC set @ 3 per your directions. S&S opens 6.0/26.5 & closes at 38.8/12.4
   
3. Only thing left to do is set the -2.5* in the proper cells. Your graph shows all 0.0 except for the adjusted cells.
   

A little help would save me some time. I have read your TTS/D and the TTS manual but alas the fog is still there preventing clear vision.............

Sorry...

The table I posted was another view. You can find this view by opening up your timing table then, at the top of the screen, open the "Tune Comparison" menu and select "Compare edits to original". This will show you any edits you made to a table.

Select all the blocks I did in the middle of the timing table. It's easy to select.

It acts like a spreadsheet, just click on one cell and drag your mouse. After highlighting all the proper cells go back to the Tuning Comparison menu and select "Working Calibration". You will notice all the cells still highlighted.

Your Units will be set at 1. 1 unit = .25 of a degree. So click "Decrement" one time to lower or retard your timing .25 of a degree or click Decrement 4 times to retard 1 full degree.

After you remove the proper degrees (2.5) go back to Tune Comparison and Compare edits to original. It should look just like my screen shot less the high RPM changes. Do this again for the other cylinder.

Save the file as Test Tune-timing-001

Flash your bike and test the bike for knock retard.

 

[Tuccandler]

Sorry...

The table I posted was another view. You can find this view by opening up your timing table then, at the top of the screen, open the "Tune Comparison" menu and select "Compare edits to original". This will show you any edits you made to a table.

Select all the blocks I did in the middle of the timing table. It's easy to select. It acts like a spreadsheet, just click on one cell and drag your mouse. After highlighting all the proper cells go back to the Tuning Comparison menu and select "Working Calibration". You will notice all the cells still highlighted.

Your Units will be set at 1. 1 unit = .25 of a degree. So click "Decrement" one time to lower or retard your timing .25 of a degree or click Decrement 4 times to retard 1 full degree.

After you remove the proper degrees (2.5) go back to Tune Comparison and Compare edits to original.

It should look just like my screen shot less the high RPM changes. Do this again for the other cylinder.

Save the file as Test Tune-timing-001

Flash your bike and test the bike for knock retard.

Tks. Wiz

 

[Tuccandler]

The install went well. S&S 557G
Run out was .0025. Bought a R&R bearing tool for $99 New off of Ebay. Worked great and recessed the bearings being installed.
Downloaded the Map that Wiz recommended with the IVC set to 3 and removed some timing in critical areas. I set the IVO to 5 per the cam estimator.
The initial ride went well. No knock, easy start and no leaks. Decided to take a quick 50 mile ride and I found that after the trike was fully warmed up the idle was not at a constant RPM. It wanted to drift below 1000. This caused some hesitation issues when I accelerated from a stopped position. I was able to limit this by twisting the throttle to about 1100 RPM.
Conclusion:
1. lower the IVO to 4 and warm the trike up. Ride it to determine if the idle is better. May need to try IVO setting of 3 also. Will use the IVO that provides the best throttle response from the stopped position.
2. VTune run to blend the staring Map with some lambda cell correction.
3. Reset the variables in the ECM Constants to original setting.
4. Save Map to desk top and down load it to ECM.

Ride, purge & do it again.

Wiz, did I leave anything out? All suggestions are welcomed.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Yes sir... the first step.

Cam Tune Data. Seems you guessed at your IVO. Post your CTD analysis chart here.

After setting your IVO with the CTData you should VTune the lower RPM range then work on your AE for the best throttle response. Usually when using an aftermarket cam it is best to reduce the AE about 10%. It may take 20% to get a sharp throttle off idle.

 

[Tuccandler]

Yes sir... the first step.

Cam Tune Data. Seems you guessed at your IVO. Post your CTD analysis chart here.

After setting your IVO with the CTData you should VTune the lower RPM range then work on your AE for the best throttle response. Usually when using an aftermarket cam it is best to reduce the AE about 10%. It may take 20% to get a sharp throttle off idle.

Mr Wiz
I used the Cam Estimator in the ECM Constant table to get the number. I will see if I can get a CTD chart to post. Never ran CTD before or posted charts so this may take a little time.
Thanks for the input. I'll use TTS Manual to get the Chart.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

With the TTS hooked to your bike and the computer... start datamaster.

Under File select Record J1850 for 2013 bike and older or CAN for 2014 then select Cam Tune Data then select where to save the file. I select DeskTop.

Start the bike and let it warm up to normal idle RPM's

Start the recording and let it idle for 3 minutes.

Stop the recording

Turn off the bike

Get out of the datamaster file. Open the CTD file up.

Select View and cam data analyzer. When the popup box comes up click Analyze.

Post the screen shot here

 

[Tuccandler]

With the TTS hooked to your bike and the computer... start datamaster.

Under File select Record J1850 for 2013 bike and older or CAN for 2014 then select Cam Tune Data then select where to save the file. I select DeskTop.

Start the bike and let it warm up to normal idle RPM's

Start the recording and let it idle for 3 minutes.

Stop the recording

Turn off the bike

Get out of the datamaster file. Open the CTD file up.

Select View and cam data analyzer. When the popup box comes up click Analyze.

Post the screen shot here

Think this is what you are asking for.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Perfect

Your first break is 3 so test both 3 and 2 for the best idle results then Vtune. If you change it again you will need to start over on your VTune runs.

 

[Tuccandler]

Perfect

Your first break is 3 so test both 3 and 2 for the best idle results then Vtune. If you change it again you will need to start over on your VTune runs.

Wiz,
I read it the same and reset to 3. Once around the block and then some idle. Much better. Now I'll test 2.
Thanks again for the help. I'll post again when I get some more results.

 

[Tuccandler]

Wiz,
I read it the same and reset to 3. Once around the block and then some idle. Much better. Now I'll test 2.
Thanks again for the help. I'll post again when I get some more results.

Wiz, IVO was set to 3, idles best there. VTune 3 runs and it runs really strong except some small hesitation on the throttle from stopped position after the bike is fully warmed up.
When I reduce the AE table by 10-20% should I reduce the entire table or only the 80-150 C cells? I am still trying to get my head wrapped around taking fuel away from AE to get a better throttle response. When I do this, will I need to start the VTune process all over or just do a couple VTunes and download My Final Cal to the ECM?

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Reduce the entire table

Take off the AC. Warm up the bike.

With the bike at warm idle snap the throttle and look at the butterfly. Work the AE tables (adjust high then low) until the butterfly snaps open and snaps closed without stepping up or down (like it's waving bye-bye). Normally takes no more adjustment than 30% increment or decrement to find the sweet spot.

 

[Tuccandler]

Reduce the entire table

Take off the AC. Warm up the bike.

With the bike at warm idle snap the throttle and look at the butterfly. Work the AE tables (adjust high then low) until the butterfly snaps open and snaps closed without stepping up or down (like it's waving bye-bye). Normally takes no more adjustment than 30% increment or decrement to find the sweet spot.

Wiz any simple way to do this using the map that is in the ECM or do I need to adjust the table, save and flash with each adjustment/

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Wiz any simple way to do this using the map that is in the ECM or do I need to adjust the table, save and flash with each adjustment/

Use your last flashed calibration and make the adjustments then put it back in the bike.

 

[Tuccandler]

Use your last flashed calibration and make the adjustments then put it back in the bike.

OK Wiz. I used the last flash and made changes full +20% to -30%. It reacts the best at -15% so that is where it is.
I also still have an idle that wants to drift below 1000 when the trike is ridden for 30 minutes. It starts drifting after about 15-20 minutes. Not to the point of stalling but annoying. I had adjusted the idle schedule to 1016 at the higher 112 and up cells. Does not seem to make a difference.
The final cal had a beautiful graph and the bike is really strong just idles a little lower than I like and I may be hearing some knock at idle. Hard to tell but as soon as I add a touch of throttle it is gone.

Latest configuration:
IVO - 3 IVC - 3 Spark adv -2.5 mid range AE -15% Idle in high heat range set to 1016

Thoughts about the idle would be appreciated. I will be putting a couple hundred miles on her tomorrow.
Thanks Wiz.........

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Upload your final calibration to a box.net account and post the link here.

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Oh yeah...

Unplug the throttle wiring on the left side of your throttle body that's behind the air cleaner. Clean up the pins and put a little dielectric grease on the plug. Snap it back in. That should take care of your low hot idle issue.

 

[Tuccandler]

Wiz that sounds like you may have seen this a time or two.
I cleaned the connector and pins with Electrical Clean and applied some dielectric.
I'll leave feedback after tomorrows ride:clapping:

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Yup... Happened to the wife's SG.

That plug also holds the intake air temp sensor. Corroded wire will mimic too hot of a reading the bike will give low idle.

 

[Tuccandler]

Yup... Happened to the wife's SG.

That plug also holds the intake air temp sensor. Corroded wire will mimic too hot of a reading the bike will give low idle.

Wiz, unbelievable you have done it again.
Idles at steady 1000 RPM after reaching cruise heat to cyl's
AE fixed the twist
Final Cal-001, ran a tank of 91 oct out today and it is getting 38 MPG mixed H&T

Wiz, 1 more question about plugs. Mine were white and most people agree that they should be light tan. If I wanted to enrich my Map by lowering the Lamda number. How much and should it be across the board or in specific cells.
I still need to check them with the Final Map installed.

:clapping:Thank you very much. My hat is off to you

 

[Mr.Wizard]

Wiz, unbelievable you have done it again.
Idles at steady 1000 RPM after reaching cruise heat to cyl's
AE fixed the twist
Final Cal-001, ran a tank of 91 oct out today and it is getting 38 MPG mixed H&T

Wiz, 1 more question about plugs. Mine were white and most people agree that they should be light tan. If I wanted to enrich my Map by lowering the Lamda number. How much and should it be across the board or in specific cells.
I still need to check them with the Final Map installed.

:clapping:Thank you very much. My hat is off to you

Reading plugs are fine for a carbureted system but not so for a EFI system. The EFI isn't a constant set fuel system like a carburetor is. If the plugs are oily or black due to an improper setting within the ECU/ECM then yes, you can read plugs. Light tan with proper settings within the ECU/ECM after several thousands of miles may be readable. Personally I think reading plugs is outdated.

Attached is my favorite Lambda scale to date. You may experiment after your trip with what suits you and your riding habits.




It may not be for everyone but I believe the 960 will keep you a bit more cool and give the bike a little more off idle. It also takes the 02 sensor out of the adaptive learning adjustments so there is consistency down low.


Enjoy your trip. Don't forget to take your TTS.

-Wiz