Problem with Reverse

I recently purchased a '06 GL 1800. The reverse button seems to be sticking. It often won't catch and go into reverse and then sometimes is difficult to get out of reverse. The seller recommended I spray the button (which I did today with tuner cleaner). How does the button work? Is there a spring behind the button? What holds it in and what lets it pop out? Is this something that I'm going to have to take to the shop or something I can fix myself? Or is the lubricant all it needs and I'm just being impatient? Thanks to all who reply.
 
I used silicon spray to free up my sticking buttons. The tuner cleaned is probably better. When spraying, "flood" around the button - not a whimpy squirt. The switch can be disassembled and cleaned properly. Be careful as there are springs that can go sailing. Work the button as you spray. There have been posts on the internet re this procedure. I do not have a link.
A:)
 
Sounds like the grease that is in the slide is getting old and stiff. I've read other boards that have taken them apart and cleaned and put new grease in the slides. Got to watch that spring that baby is an escape artist. I might be wrong in doing this but after 5yrs. without a problem sticking, but here it goes, I've been spraying wd 40 in this and other switches and no problems yet, knock on wood.
 
Speaking of sticking switches.....

We have an annual New Year's Day ride, which consists mostly of riding short distances between long stops. This year was quite cold (16 degrees). The last stop was only 1/2 mile from the previous one, so my 2005 Goldwing (Motor Trike conversion) with 49,000 miles was not warmed up.

Upon stopping, I backed up to park and then pushed the reverse button in preparation for putting the trike in gear, but reverse wouldn't go off. After rocking the trike a bit, with no result, I then attempted to turn off cruise control, since it is in the same module, but it wouldn't turn off either. I then unplugged the main fuse, because I have found that when electronics on the Wing have issues, that action usually solves the problem. But not this time.

After dinner, I tried again, but to no avail. After some discussion with my buddies, we came to the conclusion that the module might actually be physically frozen, so someone ran home and brought back a hair dryer. After directing heat onto the module for about a minute, the switches started working.

Just so you know, I keep the trike in a garage that doesn't drop below 60 degrees with about 40% humidity. Someone postulated that this environment might have allowed moisture into the module. Does this make sense? Short of carrying around a 12-volt portable hairdryer, is there anything maintenance-wise I should do at this point or in the future to help prevent this from happening again? Granted, I don't often ride when it is that cold, as my "cut off" point is usually 27 degrees, but it is embarrassing to have a problem with a Goldwing when everyone else in the group has a Harley!
 
Give them a shot of WD 40 . Very little shot. Wipe off excess or blow them out. Do this in the spring and fall. Cruise and emergency flashers on the 1800 are prone to sticking, don't let the dealer talk you into a new set. They will last 2 years and you will be right back where you are now.
 
Had to do the same thing on switch of my new VTX back in the day...Guess Honda must have a switch problem. The good thing is that they can be worked on.
 
If you diss-assemble the switch do it in a large Zip-Lock bag.

With all respect I wouldn't use WD-40 on switches.

It tends to "gum up"after a while.

As suggested Radio shack has tuner cleaner.
And CRC silicon lub

Both are plastic friendly

Also Wallly and others carry CRC electronic cleaner.
 

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