H-D Oil Change Scavenge System....

[Ol' Grey]

A friend recently told me about this and wanted to share it here......Looks like an excellent product. Check out the vid and decide for yourselves........Ride Safe.......

..::Rogue Chopper::Welcome::..

 

[msocko3]

I'm a firm believer in use a good quality synthetic oil and filter, change it acording to manufacturers recomendations and nothing else is needed. There are many HD's out there with 100,000 miles on them that have never done more than I suggest. In reality counting the oil cooler there is only about 10 - 15 oz of old oil in the system. The Harley twin cam is a dry sump system which means there is very little oil left in the engine once it has been shut off, the oil is being pumped from the sump back to the oil tank as the engine runs.

 

[Phu Cat]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't a fella accomplish the same thing by cutting up an old oil filter base?

Phu Cat

 

[Ol' Grey]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't a fella accomplish the same thing by cutting up an old oil filter base?

Phu Cat

The example in the homepage vid looks like it "might" be possible to do as you're thinking. But it really depends which model one owns. If you look on the counter in front of the guy, it looks like they've got 5 different kits, depending on model to be used on. Randomly check out different model applications and you'll see what I mean..........

 

[Lakeman]

I guess I missed something, how does it work?

 

[screwball]

Mentioned this on the other board, not sure I'd be comfortable draining the oil with the engine running. Really agree with young Mike.

 

[10rhrk]

I agree with M3. Use a good quality synthetic oil and change at sevice intervals. Nothing else needed! If you want to get a couple more ounces out, pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over a couple times by bumping the starter. I'm like screwball, I don't like the idea of running the engine to drain oil. JMO

 

[Ol' Grey]

I guess I missed something, how does it work?

Basically, it temporarily re-routes the return line of the oil system so's fresh oil can combine with any residual dirty oil that doesn't come out during the normal oil change and allows the fresh oil to help flush out the dirty oil.....but there aren't many takers here, LOL!

I'm not in complete disagreement with others in the thread. Do agree that regular and frequent oil changes, the use of synthetics, etc. can be more than sufficient for extended mileage and good engine health.

The one benefit that I can see is that it helps purge as much dirty oil out of the system as possible and that's not a bad thing. Dirty, degraded oil can create acidic reactions that over the course of time can allow more wear on internal parts. Dirty oil can also eventually turn to sludge which can clog oil passages and in rare cases cause catastrophic engine failure.

Would one's bike be fine without using the Scavenger System ? More than likely, yes, provided one performs proper routine oil changes as mentioned above. I just see this add-on as an optional ounce of preventive maintenance.......not required, but beneficial in it's own way since it can potentially slow down the turning of dirty oil into a slow build-up of less desirable sludge. Just as in the first post, it's only something for folks to consider and decide for themselves. No problem respecting that here.........

Ride Safe, All...........

 

[msocko3]

The one benefit that I can see is that it helps purge as much dirty oil out of the system as possible and that's not a bad thing. Dirty, degraded oil can create acidic reactions that over the course of time can allow more wear on internal parts. Dirty oil can also eventually turn to sludge which can clog oil passages and in rare cases cause catastrophic engine failure.

Another thought I had is with oil cooler and thermostat equipped adapters you won't get all the old oil out. While your changing the oil the engine is cooling down which means the thermostat has closed. You then put new cool oil in which assures the thermostat stays closed. In the end the oil cooler lines and cooler it self are still full of old oil after the flush because the thermostat will not allow oil to circulate through the cooler.

FWIW I've worked on a neighbors 02 Road King which had 57,000 miles on it at the time. He changed the oil per recomendations and run a good synthetic oil, the engine was clean enough internally to almost eat off of. These folks who make things like clean oil change kits are just praying on peoples desire to pamper their toys. Lets face it almost everyone puts more love and care into their bike or trike that cost sometimes $10,000 or more less than the car they just drive and run through the local Jiffy Lube for the cheap oil change.

 

[Ol' Grey]

Another thought I had is with oil cooler and thermostat equipped adapters you won't get all the old oil out. While your changing the oil the engine is cooling down which means the thermostat has closed. You then put new cool oil in which assures the thermostat stays closed. In the end the oil cooler lines and cooler it self are still full of old oil after the flush because the thermostat will not allow oil to circulate through the cooler.

FWIW I've worked on a neighbors 02 Road King which had 57,000 miles on it at the time. He changed the oil per recomendations and run a good synthetic oil, the engine was clean enough internally to almost eat off of. These folks who make things like clean oil change kits are just praying on peoples desire to pamper their toys. Lets face it almost everyone puts more love and care into their bike or trike that cost sometimes $10,000 or more less than the car they just drive and run through the local Jiffy Lube for the cheap oil change.

Very good point about bikes/trikes with oil cooler thermostats preventing as complete a purge of dirty oil. But, hey, as much as they can get out would still be helpful.

Also understood about your neighbor's Road King and the synthetic oil keeping things cleaner. If I'm not mistaken, synths keep the particulates suspended longer so's the oil filter has a better chance of trapping 'em, yes ? Again, I fully agree with you that if one uses a good synthetic oil with recommended oil change intervals, one could do without the Scavenger, but please keep in mind that not everyone uses synthetics.

Not trying to change your mind, I respect where you're at with it and that's cool. I can see the value of the Scavenger for some bikes tho', but that's always a personal call.

Another way of looking at it is that many folks buy all the cosmetic bells 'n whistles that realistically are only ornamental and can cost some serious bucks. If given the choice to buy an ornamental accessory or something like the Scavenger System that can possibly enhance engine performance and longevity, I know which one I'd choose

Long day here.......time to hit the hay.......Have a good one and Ride Safe ThumbUp

 

[msocko3]

Another way of looking at it is that many folks buy all the cosmetic bells 'n whistles that realistically are only ornamental and can cost some serious bucks. If given the choice to buy an ornamental accessory or something like the Scavenger System that can possibly enhance engine performance and longevity, I know which one I'd choose

Long day here.......time to hit the hay.......Have a good one and Ride Safe ThumbUp

I agree people need to do what they feel is right or what makes them happy. I guess given my background with engines I have a hard time acepting the scavenger, it just makes me think of snake oil. It kind of burns me up that companies prey on peoples passion for taking good care of their toys with items that in the long run won't do much for the longevity of the engine. I've built, tuned and worked on race car engines costing upwards of $30,000+ and making 1,700 hp on a mild tune and never sweated the small amout of oil left behind from a change. I just built a 120" engine for my 06 Ultra, not worried in the least about the small amount of residual oil left behind from an oil change. I know some folks who have some serious $$ tied up in some pretty big HP motorcycle engines and they don't sweat the residual.


I'm a lucky fellow, your sleeping and I'm up all night at work:AGGHH:.

 

[Ol' Grey]

I agree people need to do what they feel is right or what makes them happy. I guess given my background with engines I have a hard time acepting the scavenger, it just makes me think of snake oil. It kind of burns me up that companies prey on peoples passion for taking good care of their toys with items that in the long run won't do much for the longevity of the engine. I've built, tuned and worked on race car engines costing upwards of $30,000+ and making 1,700 hp on a mild tune and never sweated the small amout of oil left behind from a change. I just built a 120" engine for my 06 Ultra, not worried in the least about the small amount of residual oil left behind from an oil change. I know some folks who have some serious $$ tied up in some pretty big HP motorcycle engines and they don't sweat the residual.


I'm a lucky fellow, your sleeping and I'm up all night at work:AGGHH:.

I have full confidence in your experience and abilities with engines. Also saw your excellent thread explaining the 120" build and was very honestly impressed. Much respect to you on your work and meticulous workshop practices ThumbUp.........And, again, we're in agreement that particularly on newer bikes that receive proper maintenance right from the start, there's no need for the Scavenger or to worry about the residual oil left after an oil change.

Was waiting to hear back from my Bro in Virginia who told me about the Scavenger System and heard back from him earlier today. Original owner of a '95 Softail Custom, 157,000 miles on the clock and he figures that he started using the Scavenger System about 75,000 miles ago. More than a few cross country runs, no fancy doo-dads on the bike, barely washes it, just rides it and keeps it running well. His words are that he can't "prove" that the Scavenger System is responsible for his respectable mileage, but he does feel that it has helped. It's anybody's guess really.

Where I'm coming from mostly is having seen sludge while working on Brit bikes. If you've ever torn into an old Brit bike, then you know the kind of sludge I'm referring to. Nasty stuff. Also a dry sump engine, but enough dirty oil carrying the makings of what will eventually turn into sludge can make the primitive oil pump ball (check) valves stick and then it quickly becomes a "wet sump" engine from the wet sumping. Please realize that as I first watched the vid from the Scavenger link, I was picturing the nasty sludge and said to myself "Now, THERE'S one item that might slow down the sludge forming process" (unfortunately, it's for H-D and not Brit, LOL!) Sludge can also turn into an actual solid and wreak havoc in an engine. A professional Brit bike wrench I know had a customer's bike where a chunk of solid sludge had broken free in the crankcase and jammed itself between crankshaft and main bearing. Catastrophic failure.

Granted, the old Brits with tons of miles and many with neglect as well as abuse, along with improper maintenance are a far cry from a newer Harley with a dependable owner and running synthetic oil. I only wanted to share the link for others to consider is all. I'm not selling the Scavenger System, but I feel as tho' whoever is oughta pay me a percentage for speaking up for a product that they sell and I don't even own, ROTFLMAO!

Keep the coffee going in at work :Coffee:.......it's time again for me to cut some zzzzzzzzzz's.........ThumbUp