What!!! Spark Plugs

[Blindside48]

2020 Triglide. Trip from near San Antonio to Big Bend with 6 other bikes. I-10 all the way running 75-80 mph. Just before we turned off I-10 to Fort Davis, trike felt like it was losing power. Got off I-10 and definitely was loss of power when accelerating. Felt like one cylinder wasn’t firing. Once up to speed it ran fine until I tried to accelerate or put a load on bike like going uphill.

My trike had 3100 miles on it at this point. Road the Big Bend area for three days with the trike losing power up every hill or when accelerating. Also, it had a hard time starting every morning. Sounded like it was hitting on one cylinder. Again, at cruising speed, it ran fine.

On trip back home it ran fine at 75-80 until accelerating or pulling up a hill. When the trike cutout, it sounded like running on one cylinder just like when EITMS kicks in. Took bike to dealer when I got home. They had it one day and closed due to virus. Opened again last a Thursday and called to say bike was fixed. I asked what the problem was and they said fouled plugs and not covered under warranty.

Also, Harley Corp is closed down so no talking to them. At this point I had 4110 miles on the trike. I asked which cylinder was fouling out and they said both. So apparently all four plugs were fouling but trike would still run 80 down the interstate without missing until I tried to accelerate or go uphill. They could not give me any reason the plugs would foul at this low mileage and they had discarded the plugs they pulled out. So has anyone had something similar like this happen. I’m just concerned about the same thing happening again in 3000 miles.

 

[MDO]

Your trike is under warranty and I believe the plugs are part of the system that has an extended EPA warranty.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I say BS on this. Highly unlikely all 4 plugs go bad at the same time

There is always an under lying reason , most probably fuel related.

Did they return your old plugs? I would surely like to see them. I would be on the phone with corporate to find out why the plugs are not covered on a new bike when clearly you were told they had failed.

 

[Blindside48]

Fuzzy I will definitely mention the O2 sensor.

Jack fuel would be my first thought. However, there were 6 other bikes on the trip and we all got gas at the same time and same place the entire trip. No one else had issues.

Corporate is closed for now. I will be in touch when they open.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Fuzzy I will definitely mention the O2 sensor.

Jack fuel would be my first thought. However, there were 6 other bikes on the trip and we all got gas at the same time and same place the entire trip. No one else had issues.

Corporate is closed for now. I will be in touch when they open.

Not so much the quality of the fuel as the ability of the injectors to deliver the proper amount of fuel this could be tied into the O2 sensors also

At the very least you should have your bike scanned by the dealer , you can scan it yourself also here, be sure to write down any codes

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.



2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. For 2014 & newer touring models this will be the toggle switch on the left control mount.



3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.



4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.



5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])

S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)

SP = speedometer

T = tachometer



6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.



7 - Record the codes.



8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.



9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.



10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.



On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.



"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

 

[PanheadSteve]

There has been a few reports of plugs backing out because they were not tight from the factory on some M8’s. Without your old plugs the dealer story is doubtful.

 

[hddocfl]

I would check you air filter it maybe full of oil.

 

[DK Custom Products]

It could be a variety of things, lots of good advice in this thread. Just a matter of going thru a process of elimination...or, find a trustworthy dealership and see if they can fix it, and tell you the truth of what they found.

As mentioned, something as simple as the plugs not being tight in the head will produce the results you experienced, and we've had more than a few Customers that had loose plugs from the factory.

Below is a photo of what a typical cylinder/piston head looks like without an External Breather System (EBS).

And here is what one looks like that does have an EBS-

Here is a report LINK with more info about EBS's.

Kevin

 

[GoSlo]

Your trike is under warranty and I believe the plugs are part of the system that has an extended EPA warranty.

Actually, I know the plugs are not covered by warranty or extended warranty. I had a 2013 Triglide and while doing a 65,000 mile service in 2017 the mechanic found one of the spark plugs had "come loose". I'm not too mechanical, so my descriptions won't be technical or even correct, but I'll try my best. The threaded part that the spark plug goes into was stripped and metal shavings/pieces had fallen into the cylinder and trashed it. My option was to put in a heli-coil and try to clean out the metal flakes or just replace that part of the engine. My dealership was shocked to find out from Harley that because all these problems were caused by the spark plug, which is NOT part of the physical engine, that it was not covered under warranty. I said I'll just trade it in and they took it as trade "as is" and gave me full trade in price. By that I mean they did not reduce what they gave me the amount it was going to cost to fix. Now have a 2018.

 

[ultrafxr]

Actually, I know the plugs are not covered by warranty or extended warranty. I had a 2013 Triglide and while doing a 65,000 mile service in 2017 the mechanic found one of the spark plugs had "come loose". I'm not too mechanical, so my descriptions won't be technical or even correct, but I'll try my best. The threaded part that the spark plug goes into was stripped and metal shavings/pieces had fallen into the cylinder and trashed it. My option was to put in a heli-coil and try to clean out the metal flakes or just replace that part of the engine. My dealership was shocked to find out from Harley that because all these problems were caused by the spark plug, which is NOT part of the physical engine, that it was not covered under warranty. I said I'll just trade it in and they took it as trade "as is" and gave me full trade in price. By that I mean they did not reduce what they gave me the amount it was going to cost to fix. Now have a 2018.

Something doesn't smell quite right about what the dealer told you imo. If I understand this correctly you had it in for a routine 65k service but had no maintenance issues you were aware of. From your description the stripped threads and metal shavings were on the engine head 'the threaded part that the spark plug goes into.' If I am correct in these assumptions then it seems more likely to me that the mechanic stripped the threads when he was replacing the spark plug. I know anything is possible and a loose spark plug could even come out of the head but threads stripping by themselves seems a bit of a reach to me. In any case sounds like it worked out OK for you and the fact that the dealer didn't reduce your trade-in amount by the cost of the repairs lends further credence to my theory that it was they that caused the problem.

 

[GoSlo]

Something doesn't smell quite right about what the dealer told you imo. If I understand this correctly you had it in for a routine 65k service but had no maintenance issues you were aware of. From your description the stripped threads and metal shavings were on the engine head 'the threaded part that the spark plug goes into.' If I am correct in these assumptions then it seems more likely to me that the mechanic stripped the threads when he was replacing the spark plug. I know anything is possible and a loose spark plug could even come out of the head but threads stripping by themselves seems a bit of a reach to me. In any case sounds like it worked out OK for you and the fact that the dealer didn't reduce your trade-in amount by the cost of the repairs lends further credence to my theory that it was they that caused the problem.

Could be, I really don't know. I was having issues with the trike not running as well as it had in the past and mentioned that when I brought the trike in. It would surprise me though if it was the mechanic's fault. Been using him for over 15 years now and he's the top mechanic at the dealership, but I suppose everyone makes mistakes. My main point though was that spark plugs are definitely not covered by warrantee.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Something doesn't smell quite right about what the dealer told you imo. If I understand this correctly you had it in for a routine 65k service but had no maintenance issues you were aware of. From your description the stripped threads and metal shavings were on the engine head 'the threaded part that the spark plug goes into.' If I am correct in these assumptions then it seems more likely to me that the mechanic stripped the threads when he was replacing the spark plug. I know anything is possible and a loose spark plug could even come out of the head but threads stripping by themselves seems a bit of a reach to me. In any case sounds like it worked out OK for you and the fact that the dealer didn't reduce your trade-in amount by the cost of the repairs lends further credence to my theory that it was they that caused the problem.

I agree, If the dealer had been doing your services they were the ones that stripped the plugs

 

[PanheadSteve]

I agree, If the dealer had been doing your services they were the ones that stripped the plugs

Or forgot antiseize on the last major service. Frozen plugs are no fun...

 

[rhino 2]

Or forgot antiseize on the last major service. Frozen plugs are no fun...

NGK Plugs should never be lubricated... Ie; anti seize /or thermal paste ...

And all others Thermal paste/Heat Sink would be better to use than anti seize...

And also when removing or installing spark plugs only when the engine is cold/cool...

But that said since electronic ignitions and Unleaded gas spark plugs should last 50 thousand miles..

Spark plugs are covered under the federal emissions warranty..

 

[PanheadSteve]

Agreed most plug manufacturers are covering their a$$ by advising no lube on the threads because many people don’t have a feel for tightening a plug.

Here’s a guy that shares my opinion if used sparingly it’s good as long as you do not over torque.

https://agradetools.com/be-confident-with-anti-seize-how-to-use-the-right-anti-seize-like-a-boss/

 

[rae mendonca]

plugs

NGK Plugs should never be lubricated... Ie; anti seize /or thermal paste ...

And all others Thermal paste/Heat Sink would be better to use than anti seize...

And also when removing or installing spark plugs only when the engine is cold/cool...

But that said since electronic ignitions and Unleaded gas spark plugs should last 50 thousand miles..

Spark plugs are covered under the federal emissions warranty..

So how come the FSM says to put anti eize on the plugs

 

[MDO]

When I installed my plugs, I put a small amout of WD40 on the threads & torque to 100 in. lbs.