Well......

I'll tell you what, if you keep practicing, I believe by mid summer you will be well on the way to taking long trips.
Another hint, on the speed ways, keep looking at your rear view mirrors for up coming traffic. There is nothing like not paying attention and have a semi come by you and it starts sucking you into its wind vortex. WOW, that will wake you up in a hurry. That's why when you see a semi coming inch towards the outside of the lane, it helps not getting the wind vortex.
I am sure you will pickup all these things while you practice.
Another big help in some areas, speak to the local rider and ask if they set up their machines for the roads in your area. Some areas have high crowns on the roads and a few riders set their tire pressures different to compensate for the crown.
I am sure all of us in TT Land could write a book on the dos and don'ts for the area they live in.
Just like two wheels..Watch out for the other guy!

Rosy
 
Don't care at all hope it helps.Its actually the size it is due to having materials laying around.I had several treated 4x4s so I used 3.I don't remember the spacing and i'm in Arkansas till Monday but its 6ft wide and 8ft long if memory is right.I used 1 1x6 on the end to help with flex and I just dug small ditches for the runners till they were deep enough to get the end on the ground.The building end is supported by solid concrete blocks.I too had about a 3x3 ramp before.I using skids with plywood tops from work and had been through several and had let one get slick from tree sap and cause me to fall and break my wrist.When I got the trike it was time to build a real one.I have some roll roofing to put down for traction should this one start to get slick.
 
Don't care at all hope it helps.Its actually the size it is due to having materials laying around.I had several treated 4x4s so I used 3.I don't remember the spacing and i'm in Arkansas till Monday but its 6ft wide and 8ft long if memory is right.I used 1 1x6 on the end to help with flex and I just dug small ditches for the runners till they were deep enough to get the end on the ground.The building end is supported by solid concrete blocks.I too had about a 3x3 ramp before.I using skids with plywood tops from work and had been through several and had let one get slick from tree sap and cause me to fall and break my wrist.When I got the trike it was time to build a real one.I have some roll roofing to put down for traction should this one start to get slick.

Thank you Marc. 6x8 is what my handy man is going to build. I'm anxious to get it as it will be much easier to get the trike in and out. I did put bright color duct tape down the center so I knew I was on track getting it through the doors evenly. And I know how a broken wrist goes. Still recouping from mine and having a pin put in. I go back to the Dr next week. Can't do the things I use to do with it that's why I have a handy man now.
 
I may start an argument here, Setting your tire pressures different to allow for crowns in the road may not be a good idea?

Here is the reasoning.

One tire will run at a higher temperature than the other (stands to reason?)

One tire will have more flex side to side than the other putting undo strain on the sidewalls of both tires (promoting sidewall breakdown (stands to reason?)

I have replaced wheel seals on one side of peoples trikes that I can see no other reason for them having failed than uneven tire pressure? (just my thoughts)

Rim failure has more chance of occurring by putting uneven strain on them. especially if wheel nuts are not torqued right. (stands to reason?)

Also promoting cupping on a tire due to the tendency to be drug sidewise around a corner rather rolling around a corner? (stands to reason?)

Ok! now you can begin to lamblast me for these thoughts if you wish?:Shrug:



Just because everyone else is doing it doesn't always make it right?
Mechanical thing are mechanical things and certain rules of physics always apply on mechanical things.


All I know is what I have observed during repairs or inspection of failed parts compared to what folks tell me about how they set up their trikes and 1+1=2?
 
It sure doesn't seem like the thing to do to me pcombe. And I was only thinking of temp diff and how that may change handling.
 
Can't speak of the pins.Only one I had was in my elbow when I was to immobilize it.I went to ER and was lucky enough it was a clean break with no need to set.Good thing cause the drs wanted a min of 250 for the office visit plus the actual work.I told them their services weren't needed for that price and put it in a splint for 8 wks.Good to go now.Cost me about 50 bucks.
 
I am with pcombe on not setting tire pressure to counteract road crowns. Aside from the very good reasoning already listed, one factor is different roads can have different crowns. Going from local streets to state roads to interstate highways, even town to town, county to county or state to state will all pull in different ways. With experience a rider will steer to counteract the pull to the side. After a while it will be second nature, won't even have to think about it.

Another thing I realized after doing it for a while without thinking about it is I usually ride with my front wheel to the left of the center of the lane. On busy roads there are often shallow valleys from tires wearing down the asphalt. I find myself riding with the front wheel to the left of center, riding jst on the side of the left wheel rut. As the whole trike is pulled to the right by the general crown of the road, the front wheel wants to go "downhill" toward the bottom of the rut, pulling the rig slightly to the left, and partially counteracting the tendency of the trike to head to the shoulder. Might be a very nuanced thing an new rider shouldn't worry about, but as proficiency is gained the subtle things seem to help.
 

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