- Thread starter
- #31
haha. you got the knack!
Tweety to get a supercharger
- Thread starter ea81slush
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #32
Well I'm real happy now. Purchased a new Corolla 5 ribbed belt and fitted it. I thought the old belt broke due to it being used. But it was because the tensioner mount had a burr on it and it cut through it thereby shreading it. So with half a new belt hanging on I took this short video. As you'll see I needed to work the choke to get it start and it was real cold so looks like smoke out the exhausts. anyway I'm soon at the end of the project.
the sound at the beginning is heavy rain on the roof.
the sound at the beginning is heavy rain on the roof.
- Thread starter
- #33
I do have a problem I have to work on.
Being hard mounted if the SC alignment is out then it doesnt give me any room to adjust it so I dont damage belts.
I can cut the manifold in two and use a silicone sleeve there this would mean I need a top sc mount to secure it as the manifold is currently holding it firm in position
Couple of days and it will all be done. Testosterone doesnt have patience!
Being hard mounted if the SC alignment is out then it doesnt give me any room to adjust it so I dont damage belts.
I can cut the manifold in two and use a silicone sleeve there this would mean I need a top sc mount to secure it as the manifold is currently holding it firm in position
Couple of days and it will all be done. Testosterone doesnt have patience!
- Thread starter
- #34
So finally the manifold was modified. Got the engine up to operating temperature but still the engine wants to bog down with richness. I have a spare carbie so I’ll look at those main jets soon.
But first there is the test drive. I inched down the driveway careful not to flood it. Then stalled it. Restart ok will feather the throttle till I get some speed up. Carried out a u-turn at the Strathbogie CBD….and put the auto in first gear from drive. Feather the throttle till 2000 rpm then squeezed it more….woooooohhh!!!!!! wow!. Where’s that neckbrace!! Climbed a hill leaving bogie and slowed then it kicked down from 3rd to second and immediately for the very first time, the front wheel on tweety left the ground about 20mm. What amazed me was- it remained off the ground for about 5 metres. That’s what it felt like but likely 2 metres- dont matter it was a buzz. It has never been so responsive. I was going uphill but this is exactly what I was after. And that kick in the back is gradual and consistent till about 4000 rpm when it increases noticeably. And the noise? I don’t hardly hear it! Maybe the car guys hear it due to it being enclosed?
Gotta do the airbox now, clean up the garage, change the jets and get a tune. What a relief!.
The belt is now running true. The silicone tube idea failed due to no having enough "meat" on both ends of where I cut it. So wleded it again while in place and hard mounted the unit again.
This is an electricians wire box. will modifying it to make an airbox out of it. It has to enable a 75mm hose for the cone air filter. and a 38mm hose for the blow off valve.
I will connect the digital boost guage to seek the amount of boost I have. Video will come.
But first there is the test drive. I inched down the driveway careful not to flood it. Then stalled it. Restart ok will feather the throttle till I get some speed up. Carried out a u-turn at the Strathbogie CBD….and put the auto in first gear from drive. Feather the throttle till 2000 rpm then squeezed it more….woooooohhh!!!!!! wow!. Where’s that neckbrace!! Climbed a hill leaving bogie and slowed then it kicked down from 3rd to second and immediately for the very first time, the front wheel on tweety left the ground about 20mm. What amazed me was- it remained off the ground for about 5 metres. That’s what it felt like but likely 2 metres- dont matter it was a buzz. It has never been so responsive. I was going uphill but this is exactly what I was after. And that kick in the back is gradual and consistent till about 4000 rpm when it increases noticeably. And the noise? I don’t hardly hear it! Maybe the car guys hear it due to it being enclosed?
Gotta do the airbox now, clean up the garage, change the jets and get a tune. What a relief!.
The belt is now running true. The silicone tube idea failed due to no having enough "meat" on both ends of where I cut it. So wleded it again while in place and hard mounted the unit again.
This is an electricians wire box. will modifying it to make an airbox out of it. It has to enable a 75mm hose for the cone air filter. and a 38mm hose for the blow off valve.
I will connect the digital boost guage to seek the amount of boost I have. Video will come.
Great work Smokey! Just remember, boost is addictive. You will eventually want more!
Looks great
- Thread starter
- #37
More boost, holes in pistons....oh boy. will fit the digital boost guage soon and take a picture of the max boost. will be interesting.
- Thread starter
- #38
have had 165 main jets in the carbie, replaced with 145, still rich. have ordered 125, 130 and 135 jets. soon will try and lean it off a bit so it doesnt bog down.
Made up the airbox today.
Made up the airbox today.
- Thread starter
- #39
Well today I nearly finished the airbox. The top cap on an angle has to be recut to make it look more presentable. But for $24, it was cheap for what I wanted it to do.
The box has 75mm plumbing to the vacuum style air hose to the cone filter further towards the front to get all that cool air. Ther is also a join for the blow off valve.
Replaced the 145 jets with 135, then 130 then 125. Not much change with the bogging down of the engine. So with the 125's in place took to it with the timing light. Bearing in mind the standard ea81 has its timing marks on the flywheel at the rear and I dont have a flywheel anymore being an adapter and auto trans from VW.
So the triple crank pulley originally on this engine has a mark on it, and was found from riding uphill slowly until the pinging ceased. A friend had his Brumby/brat here once and we compared markes and by chance I'd timed it to 8 degrees with that mark in the vertical position on the block halves...odd eh..
When I replaced that pulley with a standard single V belt pulley I copied that mark over. Then my engineer fixed a 5 ribbed pulley to that. Well I checked the timing and it was about 20 degrees. Dont know why. But I loosened off the dizzy and the timing light decided to go bush!!.
With the info I had though I could retard the timing quite a lot. I kept doing this until it revved cleanly. Until I get another timing light I dont know what degrees it is at idle or high revs for that matter. But I'm fairly happy I got the hesitation out. But was I now running lean?. Seemed I was because at medium revs it seemed to run out of fuel as it slowly died down.
I replaced the 125's with 145's. Smelt quite rich. Replaced them for 135's and it was the happiest its been. That'll do till a tune.
Wanted a test ride but its dark.....lol.
The box has 75mm plumbing to the vacuum style air hose to the cone filter further towards the front to get all that cool air. Ther is also a join for the blow off valve.
Replaced the 145 jets with 135, then 130 then 125. Not much change with the bogging down of the engine. So with the 125's in place took to it with the timing light. Bearing in mind the standard ea81 has its timing marks on the flywheel at the rear and I dont have a flywheel anymore being an adapter and auto trans from VW.
So the triple crank pulley originally on this engine has a mark on it, and was found from riding uphill slowly until the pinging ceased. A friend had his Brumby/brat here once and we compared markes and by chance I'd timed it to 8 degrees with that mark in the vertical position on the block halves...odd eh..
When I replaced that pulley with a standard single V belt pulley I copied that mark over. Then my engineer fixed a 5 ribbed pulley to that. Well I checked the timing and it was about 20 degrees. Dont know why. But I loosened off the dizzy and the timing light decided to go bush!!.
With the info I had though I could retard the timing quite a lot. I kept doing this until it revved cleanly. Until I get another timing light I dont know what degrees it is at idle or high revs for that matter. But I'm fairly happy I got the hesitation out. But was I now running lean?. Seemed I was because at medium revs it seemed to run out of fuel as it slowly died down.
I replaced the 125's with 145's. Smelt quite rich. Replaced them for 135's and it was the happiest its been. That'll do till a tune.
Wanted a test ride but its dark.....lol.
- Thread starter
- #40
Anyone contemplating adding a SC to their engine might want to consider the following
there are a number of things I wouldnt do again.
1/ By far the mistake that cost me many hours was the one peice manifold joining the sc to the intake. Had my time again this would ahve been in two halves and made for a 1 inch section of silicone tube. This would have made mounting easier.
2/ Be aware that the entry and exit mounting bolts are 6mm and often can have worn threads. This might temp you to insert longer bolts for strength BUT....the holes go through to the spinning lobes meaning damaging them is easily done. I was lucky to realise this as I bolted a longer one up. In the end I retapped a few of them for larger stubbier bolts that did the trick.
3/ As a novice I didnt realise until later that the first thing to do is line up the pulleys both vertically and horizontally then secure the mount rather than thinking small amoutns of adjustment is easy.
4/ When purchasing a sC 12 or 14 try and get one with the manifolds. they could come in handy.
5/ I think the Dellorto 40 DHLA was a good chice. seemed to have no issues with it and can handle the 3-5 psi of my elecric fuel pump with no return to tank feed needed.
6/ I was happy that I got my engineer to fix the clutch pulley with three precision bolts and the crank pulley also. wasnt that costly and takes the guessing out. In hindsight the tensioner mount could have been on a better adjusting angle. Works fine but if its not 90 degrees from the belt adjustment suffers. Is located just above the water pump pulley.
7/ I was happy with the following decisions: location of the supercharger, utilising the cast iron alternator mount, Ford belt tensioner is a gem to use, carbie choice, supercharger size (didnt need the SC14), draw through rather than blow through, the digital boost gauge (cheap on ebay and easy to read), ribbed belt rather than V-belt which was my first choice, utilising a 5pr-0965 belt a common size.
there are a number of things I wouldnt do again.
1/ By far the mistake that cost me many hours was the one peice manifold joining the sc to the intake. Had my time again this would ahve been in two halves and made for a 1 inch section of silicone tube. This would have made mounting easier.
2/ Be aware that the entry and exit mounting bolts are 6mm and often can have worn threads. This might temp you to insert longer bolts for strength BUT....the holes go through to the spinning lobes meaning damaging them is easily done. I was lucky to realise this as I bolted a longer one up. In the end I retapped a few of them for larger stubbier bolts that did the trick.
3/ As a novice I didnt realise until later that the first thing to do is line up the pulleys both vertically and horizontally then secure the mount rather than thinking small amoutns of adjustment is easy.
4/ When purchasing a sC 12 or 14 try and get one with the manifolds. they could come in handy.
5/ I think the Dellorto 40 DHLA was a good chice. seemed to have no issues with it and can handle the 3-5 psi of my elecric fuel pump with no return to tank feed needed.
6/ I was happy that I got my engineer to fix the clutch pulley with three precision bolts and the crank pulley also. wasnt that costly and takes the guessing out. In hindsight the tensioner mount could have been on a better adjusting angle. Works fine but if its not 90 degrees from the belt adjustment suffers. Is located just above the water pump pulley.
7/ I was happy with the following decisions: location of the supercharger, utilising the cast iron alternator mount, Ford belt tensioner is a gem to use, carbie choice, supercharger size (didnt need the SC14), draw through rather than blow through, the digital boost gauge (cheap on ebay and easy to read), ribbed belt rather than V-belt which was my first choice, utilising a 5pr-0965 belt a common size.
- Thread starter
- #41
Been some delays.
I used a red silicone gasket sealant that wrinkled once compressed. Dont know why.
but it caused all sorts of leaks in the manifold.
Just got it all back together after I pulled manifolds off and used a tar type gasket cement called "gasket goo" here in oz. sets hard but parts are easily seperated.
Will start up tomorrow.
I used a red silicone gasket sealant that wrinkled once compressed. Dont know why.
but it caused all sorts of leaks in the manifold.
Just got it all back together after I pulled manifolds off and used a tar type gasket cement called "gasket goo" here in oz. sets hard but parts are easily seperated.
Will start up tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #42
I've allowed for the gasket goo to set.
At least I know there are no leaks there now on that custom manifold.
Fiddled with jets a bit ended up with 145 mains and 6 degrees timing close to standard timing. But there is still just a little hesitation and as I got rid of most of it then it has to be a tuning issue. Wont know how ridable it will be until the rain stops.
Click on the next pic for a video
And yet again while fiddling with timing the engine backfired and that BOV worked so well.
At least I know there are no leaks there now on that custom manifold.
Fiddled with jets a bit ended up with 145 mains and 6 degrees timing close to standard timing. But there is still just a little hesitation and as I got rid of most of it then it has to be a tuning issue. Wont know how ridable it will be until the rain stops.
Click on the next pic for a video
And yet again while fiddling with timing the engine backfired and that BOV worked so well.
- Thread starter
- #43
today went for a ride. achieved 4 psi boost but wasnt under much load so more to come maybe. I'd still be happy with 4 anyway if that was its max. seemed to pull nicely. but needs that tune up. will get that Tuesday. readouts to come.
- Thread starter
- #44
Today was more sweet than bitter but it could have easily turned horrible.
Took off at 6:30am bound for Croydon to my friends at VW performance Centre. Got to yea and broke down at the servo when Tweety's engine wouldn't restart.
Turned out much later that there was a lot of condensation in the electronic dizzy. Not the first time!
Eventually restarted and the engine broke a supercharger belt at Glenburn. Inspection revealed the belt had a tendency to move towards the engine. Later Daniel from VWPC found it was out iof alignment by about 3mm resulting in one of the 5 ribs on the belt to fray, break then the rest of the belt followed.
Luckily I had a spare and pushed on from Yea to Ringwood East where the second belt snapped. I heard it go. But pushed on regardless and found that indeed the engine can maintain power without the belt...no boost of course.
So Daniel took about 2 hours to make a spacer between the crank pulley and the SC ribbed pulley, plug weld it together etc. Then it was dyno time.
I had had 145's as a main jets in the 40 DHLA Dellorto,. In the end we had 225's so you can imagine how lean it was running.
Air jets were matched.
Accelerator "pump" jets had to go to greater sizes too.
Initial runs were disappointing. Last years HP maximum was 60 hp at the wheels. These runs were 58. I asked Daniel to check the throttle. Yep...less that half effective throttle when squeezed tight- my fault. We spent some time remaking a better throttle set up with more throw and a better link.
82.2 hp at the wheels compared to 59.6 last year. a good jump of 32% in hp. I began to raise a smile.
Torque last year was 440lb this year 570.
another substantial increase.
Here is the graph. The green is last years results after the weber carb was installed.
Todays is in red. Power is the humped curve, torque the flatter lines.
That was at the wheels.
last year the flywheel HP was 75. This year....well we got it way up toward 98 then we had an issue. The engine firstly wouldnt idle under 2500 rpm. Then it wouldnt start. The condensation was blown out with air. Then Daniel found a leak between the custom manifold and the base adapter plate.
I recognised that spot. The gasket and hence the gasket goo area was less than 3mm wide between the intake neck and the mounting stud.
So we packe dup our box of tricks and decided I'd remake the manifold. Daniel supplied me with some 75mm pipe and a leice of 75mm silicome tube.
Homewood bound and the difference was- well extraordinary particularly acceleration between 80-110 kph.
Truly quick by previous standards. Tackling hills is a breeze where previously I'd drop speed to say 80kph or even drop down to second the trike maintains 100 kph effortlessly. When the trike does hit a slower steeper incline and drop down to second the front of the trike lifts.
Not off the ground at that speed say 60kph but you do get that sensation of the machine sitting on its haunches- nice.
Boost max indicated was 5psi. I think I'll be happy with that. I wont rule out at a later time changing the SC pulley to a slightly smaller one to get a bit more boost but I'll leave it alone for some time yet.
Now to rebuild that manifold and get the manifold between the Sc and the carbie shortened to make way for a wider air box
Took off at 6:30am bound for Croydon to my friends at VW performance Centre. Got to yea and broke down at the servo when Tweety's engine wouldn't restart.
Turned out much later that there was a lot of condensation in the electronic dizzy. Not the first time!
Eventually restarted and the engine broke a supercharger belt at Glenburn. Inspection revealed the belt had a tendency to move towards the engine. Later Daniel from VWPC found it was out iof alignment by about 3mm resulting in one of the 5 ribs on the belt to fray, break then the rest of the belt followed.
Luckily I had a spare and pushed on from Yea to Ringwood East where the second belt snapped. I heard it go. But pushed on regardless and found that indeed the engine can maintain power without the belt...no boost of course.
So Daniel took about 2 hours to make a spacer between the crank pulley and the SC ribbed pulley, plug weld it together etc. Then it was dyno time.
I had had 145's as a main jets in the 40 DHLA Dellorto,. In the end we had 225's so you can imagine how lean it was running.
Air jets were matched.
Accelerator "pump" jets had to go to greater sizes too.
Initial runs were disappointing. Last years HP maximum was 60 hp at the wheels. These runs were 58. I asked Daniel to check the throttle. Yep...less that half effective throttle when squeezed tight- my fault. We spent some time remaking a better throttle set up with more throw and a better link.
82.2 hp at the wheels compared to 59.6 last year. a good jump of 32% in hp. I began to raise a smile.
Torque last year was 440lb this year 570.
another substantial increase.
Here is the graph. The green is last years results after the weber carb was installed.
Todays is in red. Power is the humped curve, torque the flatter lines.
That was at the wheels.
last year the flywheel HP was 75. This year....well we got it way up toward 98 then we had an issue. The engine firstly wouldnt idle under 2500 rpm. Then it wouldnt start. The condensation was blown out with air. Then Daniel found a leak between the custom manifold and the base adapter plate.
I recognised that spot. The gasket and hence the gasket goo area was less than 3mm wide between the intake neck and the mounting stud.
So we packe dup our box of tricks and decided I'd remake the manifold. Daniel supplied me with some 75mm pipe and a leice of 75mm silicome tube.
Homewood bound and the difference was- well extraordinary particularly acceleration between 80-110 kph.
Truly quick by previous standards. Tackling hills is a breeze where previously I'd drop speed to say 80kph or even drop down to second the trike maintains 100 kph effortlessly. When the trike does hit a slower steeper incline and drop down to second the front of the trike lifts.
Not off the ground at that speed say 60kph but you do get that sensation of the machine sitting on its haunches- nice.
Boost max indicated was 5psi. I think I'll be happy with that. I wont rule out at a later time changing the SC pulley to a slightly smaller one to get a bit more boost but I'll leave it alone for some time yet.
Now to rebuild that manifold and get the manifold between the Sc and the carbie shortened to make way for a wider air box
Great job Smokey! Thanks for letting us follow along with your install!
- Thread starter
- #46
Its taken a while but am ready to install the new improved manifold each side of the SC12.
This is a pic of the original set up. You can see the grey airbox and how thin it had to be due to the roof frame coming very close to it as the roof was tilted back. The black manifold on the left mounts above the intake. It had an adapter/spacer alloy made by redline under it that had very littel meat to create a good seal- hence a leak.
This is the new set up. I used the spare lynx manifold half to get it shortened.. This allows for the new airbox. And I'll have one centimetre spare. The new manifold to the intake is made out of 4x2" steel tube for the top onto 75mm steel tube under to to the intake the latter being halved for the silicone tube.
Look close enough you might see the Devcon plastic steel lining insdie the lower mount to allow for smoothness for the fuel mix. Good stuff but not cheap.
This is a pic of the original set up. You can see the grey airbox and how thin it had to be due to the roof frame coming very close to it as the roof was tilted back. The black manifold on the left mounts above the intake. It had an adapter/spacer alloy made by redline under it that had very littel meat to create a good seal- hence a leak.
This is the new set up. I used the spare lynx manifold half to get it shortened.. This allows for the new airbox. And I'll have one centimetre spare. The new manifold to the intake is made out of 4x2" steel tube for the top onto 75mm steel tube under to to the intake the latter being halved for the silicone tube.
Look close enough you might see the Devcon plastic steel lining insdie the lower mount to allow for smoothness for the fuel mix. Good stuff but not cheap.
- Thread starter
- #47
Had a air leak between the custom manifold and the sC. recommend rubberised gaskets with alloy in the middle (dont know the tech term). the faces of the Sc inlet and outlet are not flush perfectly. Save yourself a lot of time if doign this conversion and use the thicker rubber gaskets.
I'm achieving 5psi now. I'm happy with that. throttle off the line is much better, smooth power delivery is not turbo like. I'm happy
I'm achieving 5psi now. I'm happy with that. throttle off the line is much better, smooth power delivery is not turbo like. I'm happy
- Thread starter
- #48
Note the top mount now. this is due to the manifold now in two peices.
This is Devcon. Amazing plastic putty isnt cheap but great stuff. Use inside manifold for a smooth surface.
This is the rubber gaskets I use.
This is an electrical wire box I used for an airbox
Note the tensioner on the "slack" side of the ribbed belt.
This is Devcon. Amazing plastic putty isnt cheap but great stuff. Use inside manifold for a smooth surface.
This is the rubber gaskets I use.
This is an electrical wire box I used for an airbox
Note the tensioner on the "slack" side of the ribbed belt.
- Thread starter
- #49
With a slight leak in the manifold I've decided to track down some good gasket material for the supercharger especially the seal between the SC and both sides entry and exit.
Clark rubber have a material called Nitrile. Available in black 3mm or white 1.5-6mm (I think white is for food contact) Its 3mm thick and resembles basic black rubber. It is a massive $120 per metre 150mm wide. ouch! So bought 300mm strip for $40. But you dont normally use a lot.
Temp range is about -30 to +90 C. Suitable for petrol and oils.
Furthermore it might be reusable. I'll try it.
Second dyno done. no change in hp. main jets poowered from size 225 to 180.
20mpg...not as economical as hoped but torque is terrific.
Clark rubber have a material called Nitrile. Available in black 3mm or white 1.5-6mm (I think white is for food contact) Its 3mm thick and resembles basic black rubber. It is a massive $120 per metre 150mm wide. ouch! So bought 300mm strip for $40. But you dont normally use a lot.
Temp range is about -30 to +90 C. Suitable for petrol and oils.
Furthermore it might be reusable. I'll try it.
Second dyno done. no change in hp. main jets poowered from size 225 to 180.
20mpg...not as economical as hoped but torque is terrific.
- Thread starter
- #50
All leaks fixed with NITRILE 3mm rubber gaskets. Great stuff resistant to gas.
Can now concentrate of cosmetics. Two vW Scat belt guards protect fingers- a legal requirement in Victoria.
There are two belts now and too wide for a single guard.
3 wing nuts with welded bolts make detachement easy and quick.
Can now concentrate of cosmetics. Two vW Scat belt guards protect fingers- a legal requirement in Victoria.
There are two belts now and too wide for a single guard.
3 wing nuts with welded bolts make detachement easy and quick.
- Thread starter
- #51
Nitrile rubber 3mm thick was superb and highly recommended to seal manifolds that dont go above 90 degrees C.
Have had delays but ahve compiled most of the parts for water injection.
For those that have followed this project and dont know a alot about superchargers (and I didnt 6 months ago) when the engine gets boost form the blower detonation inside the combustion chambers can easily occur. A few measures can be taken to eliminate this.
Retard the ignition. The ea81 Brat engine runs at about 8 degrees advance at idle and often runs to 32 degrees at full advance, The blown engine doesnt need this amount of advance so I had my electronic distributor recalibrated to alow it to run to 24 degrees at full advance. After a few days running it still detonated (pinged) up hills So I retarded the timing at idle from 8 degrees to 2 degrees and it vanished. However this meant I was not running the engine at its optimum power point.
Water injection. Its been around since Adam was a boy. The concept is to inject water as a vapour into the combustion chamber to stop detonation so it allows you to run the timing at 8 degrees and not have pinging on boost. It will give more lower and 1 or 2 psi extra is common.
How to install it? There are kit available. Autospeed have a DIY system that you make up using a 12volt/220volt inverter. There are some very good ideas on their web site.
Browser Warning .
I decided to not go the inverter route and prchase a 220psi pump from Snow performance.
They were really quick in replying to my emails too.
Snow Performance : Snow Performance Water Methanol Injection Systems. The Best Most Accurate Gas and Diesel Water Methanol Injection Strategies for Fuel Injected Carbureted Turbocharged Supercharged good service. Their 150 psi pump is no longer available. They have kits also. The pump is quiet in operation.
So Tweety has a draw through system with a SC12 Toyota supercharger. Mening gas and air goes through the blower to the engine. There are many debates on the www about the best place to locate an injection nozzle/s for water injections. So I wont bore you with the arguements.
I've decided to palce it between the carbie and the blower. My reasons?
1/ even though I'm running only 5 psi the blower doesnt get very warm. adding water vapour to the mix will have a cooling effect on the lobes as well as a sealing effect that could add 1 or 2 psi to the boost. 2/ placing it after the carbie wont casue rusting issues to components in the carbie 3/ That manifold has vacuum, the injector wont be battling against boost.
The components.
Nozzle/s. Any smaller than 0.3mm and atomisation wont happen. Neither will it happen with less than about 80psi. Snow also have very small nozzles. I ordered their smallest nozzle that if running continuously will empty the small tank in 25 minutes. So with this revellation only one nozzle is required.
Snow nozzles come with a small filter insode them so you want easy access to it for cleaning.
Water tank
On tweety weight has been creeping up with the roof mod and supercharger and radiator etc. So I'm not wanting to carry the normal quantity of water like you would a car say 1.5 gallons. So I found a 2.5 litre 0.6 US gallon windscreen washer tank in black which will help with algae.
Water injection will only be used on boost. I'm hoping I will use one tank of water to one tank of gas. When towing our trailer (caravan) it will be on boost more often.
Filter
I've taken Autospeeds advice and purchased a caravan fridge filter. They come with quick release hose ends and last 1500 gallons.
great idea.
Pump
220 psi Snow performance pump. A relay is recommended.
Tubing
Common water injection line
Pressure switch
Many pressure switches on the market come on at 5, 10 or 15psi boost. I found one in Oz that turns on at 0.5 psi. To be hooked up to the pump earth wire.
Check valve.
This valve before the nozzle stops the vacuum sucking water when the pump isnt operating.
That's it. I'd also recommend reading up on the web for your application.
I'm hoping to install it in the next week or so.
Have had delays but ahve compiled most of the parts for water injection.
For those that have followed this project and dont know a alot about superchargers (and I didnt 6 months ago) when the engine gets boost form the blower detonation inside the combustion chambers can easily occur. A few measures can be taken to eliminate this.
Retard the ignition. The ea81 Brat engine runs at about 8 degrees advance at idle and often runs to 32 degrees at full advance, The blown engine doesnt need this amount of advance so I had my electronic distributor recalibrated to alow it to run to 24 degrees at full advance. After a few days running it still detonated (pinged) up hills So I retarded the timing at idle from 8 degrees to 2 degrees and it vanished. However this meant I was not running the engine at its optimum power point.
Water injection. Its been around since Adam was a boy. The concept is to inject water as a vapour into the combustion chamber to stop detonation so it allows you to run the timing at 8 degrees and not have pinging on boost. It will give more lower and 1 or 2 psi extra is common.
How to install it? There are kit available. Autospeed have a DIY system that you make up using a 12volt/220volt inverter. There are some very good ideas on their web site.
Browser Warning .
I decided to not go the inverter route and prchase a 220psi pump from Snow performance.
They were really quick in replying to my emails too.
Snow Performance : Snow Performance Water Methanol Injection Systems. The Best Most Accurate Gas and Diesel Water Methanol Injection Strategies for Fuel Injected Carbureted Turbocharged Supercharged good service. Their 150 psi pump is no longer available. They have kits also. The pump is quiet in operation.
So Tweety has a draw through system with a SC12 Toyota supercharger. Mening gas and air goes through the blower to the engine. There are many debates on the www about the best place to locate an injection nozzle/s for water injections. So I wont bore you with the arguements.
I've decided to palce it between the carbie and the blower. My reasons?
1/ even though I'm running only 5 psi the blower doesnt get very warm. adding water vapour to the mix will have a cooling effect on the lobes as well as a sealing effect that could add 1 or 2 psi to the boost. 2/ placing it after the carbie wont casue rusting issues to components in the carbie 3/ That manifold has vacuum, the injector wont be battling against boost.
The components.
Nozzle/s. Any smaller than 0.3mm and atomisation wont happen. Neither will it happen with less than about 80psi. Snow also have very small nozzles. I ordered their smallest nozzle that if running continuously will empty the small tank in 25 minutes. So with this revellation only one nozzle is required.
Snow nozzles come with a small filter insode them so you want easy access to it for cleaning.
Water tank
On tweety weight has been creeping up with the roof mod and supercharger and radiator etc. So I'm not wanting to carry the normal quantity of water like you would a car say 1.5 gallons. So I found a 2.5 litre 0.6 US gallon windscreen washer tank in black which will help with algae.
Water injection will only be used on boost. I'm hoping I will use one tank of water to one tank of gas. When towing our trailer (caravan) it will be on boost more often.
Filter
I've taken Autospeeds advice and purchased a caravan fridge filter. They come with quick release hose ends and last 1500 gallons.
great idea.
Pump
220 psi Snow performance pump. A relay is recommended.
Tubing
Common water injection line
Pressure switch
Many pressure switches on the market come on at 5, 10 or 15psi boost. I found one in Oz that turns on at 0.5 psi. To be hooked up to the pump earth wire.
Check valve.
This valve before the nozzle stops the vacuum sucking water when the pump isnt operating.
That's it. I'd also recommend reading up on the web for your application.
I'm hoping to install it in the next week or so.
- Thread starter
- #52
Water injection.
It isnt easy finding a simple boost switch unless you want one to come on at 5 or 10 psi. I wanted one to come on at 0.5 psi to activate the pump.
Found one for $43 plus postage (Oz). This switch is made by a Chinese firm called LEFOO. Item number LF42. Not much info on the web except that its used for remote operation etc.
Hooked it up to a test light and blew into it to find it only came on every second time I blew into it??? So pulled it apart.
This is the switch
Note the two white items on the right.
When I pulled the switch off the diaphram housing it exposed these peices. One is a small rachet shaped like a hole saw and the other shaped like a space station lol. Anyway they were replaced with a small length of tube. reassembly and it works just as I wanted each time I blew into it.
With the tube in place
The discarded internals.
This will be hooked up to the earth lead of the water injection pump and it will be mounted on the manifold with an extension peice. Rated at 80C temp.
dont know the temp a manifold will get up to but play it safe.
It isnt easy finding a simple boost switch unless you want one to come on at 5 or 10 psi. I wanted one to come on at 0.5 psi to activate the pump.
Found one for $43 plus postage (Oz). This switch is made by a Chinese firm called LEFOO. Item number LF42. Not much info on the web except that its used for remote operation etc.
Hooked it up to a test light and blew into it to find it only came on every second time I blew into it??? So pulled it apart.
This is the switch
Note the two white items on the right.
When I pulled the switch off the diaphram housing it exposed these peices. One is a small rachet shaped like a hole saw and the other shaped like a space station lol. Anyway they were replaced with a small length of tube. reassembly and it works just as I wanted each time I blew into it.
With the tube in place
The discarded internals.
This will be hooked up to the earth lead of the water injection pump and it will be mounted on the manifold with an extension peice. Rated at 80C temp.
dont know the temp a manifold will get up to but play it safe.
- Thread starter
- #53
Some progress after two days working on this trike.
I've taken some advice to make certain there is no impeding of the airflow into the carbie. Used the base of the previous smaller airbox and installed a larger outer case.
But this time air wont just enter from the front but enter at all sides.
This will prevent the foam trumpet filters from getting wet.
Intalled most of the water injection system except the injector and pressure switch.
injector line was purchased from a hose retailer. got the 600psi stuff instead of 250psi.
So now I have to take off the inlet manifold to install the single injector, get an adapter for the pressure switch to be mounted on the ea81 manifold, fit a relay to the pump and wire up the pressure switch, eventually fir a low water warning light, also a no flow light and get that last dyno tune.
I've taken some advice to make certain there is no impeding of the airflow into the carbie. Used the base of the previous smaller airbox and installed a larger outer case.
But this time air wont just enter from the front but enter at all sides.
This will prevent the foam trumpet filters from getting wet.
Intalled most of the water injection system except the injector and pressure switch.
injector line was purchased from a hose retailer. got the 600psi stuff instead of 250psi.
So now I have to take off the inlet manifold to install the single injector, get an adapter for the pressure switch to be mounted on the ea81 manifold, fit a relay to the pump and wire up the pressure switch, eventually fir a low water warning light, also a no flow light and get that last dyno tune.
- Thread starter
- #54
Final post for this supercharger install.
The last dyno tune was done. No increase in figures regardless of water injection.
I had a lot of blow by. that is fumes in the crankcase fining its way to the pcv or the valve cover breathers. this is more likely in a blown engine. so a one way valve in one said valve cover with mini air filter allowing sucking of air only and on the other side the vent goes to a "catch can" so oil in fumes will be caught before the fumes go into the engine to be burned. works well.
This project I'm happy to declare was a success. Supercharging a flat 4 be it VW or Subaru is not so difficult in my view. A 1800cc 4 cylinder engine can be transformed into 6 cylinder 2400cc powerhouse with great towing ability and low down torque. A good test is a mountain on the way to my residence in Oz.
Whereas the vW 1916cc engine slowed to 40mph in second the Ea81 Subaru engine 50 mph the supercharged engine made 65mph in third gear of the automatic box.
furthermore reliability decreases as boost is increased.
This supercharger has a max of 5psi.
With water injection and calibrated dizzy it is safe to reduce the SC pulley from 5 inches to 4 inches giving about 9psi. It should fly!!
Initially after replacing the VW engine with the not quite so ancient ea81 engine I was disappointed with the performance. Yes the Subaru revved better, was more reliable, was less cost to repair (in Oz) and was much more economical. But I lost 14 hp with the automatic. o a solution was sought. Now I have a powerful engine that is easy to tune/work on and adjust eg valve tappets. I think the only improvement I will consider apart from more boost is a single point fuel injection unit.....one day. I want to ride it for a while first.
The SC install is a good easy cheap and uncomplicated remedy.
If you decide to Sc your vw engine or other engine I'd recommend it. Good luck.
The last dyno tune was done. No increase in figures regardless of water injection.
I had a lot of blow by. that is fumes in the crankcase fining its way to the pcv or the valve cover breathers. this is more likely in a blown engine. so a one way valve in one said valve cover with mini air filter allowing sucking of air only and on the other side the vent goes to a "catch can" so oil in fumes will be caught before the fumes go into the engine to be burned. works well.
This project I'm happy to declare was a success. Supercharging a flat 4 be it VW or Subaru is not so difficult in my view. A 1800cc 4 cylinder engine can be transformed into 6 cylinder 2400cc powerhouse with great towing ability and low down torque. A good test is a mountain on the way to my residence in Oz.
Whereas the vW 1916cc engine slowed to 40mph in second the Ea81 Subaru engine 50 mph the supercharged engine made 65mph in third gear of the automatic box.
furthermore reliability decreases as boost is increased.
This supercharger has a max of 5psi.
With water injection and calibrated dizzy it is safe to reduce the SC pulley from 5 inches to 4 inches giving about 9psi. It should fly!!
Initially after replacing the VW engine with the not quite so ancient ea81 engine I was disappointed with the performance. Yes the Subaru revved better, was more reliable, was less cost to repair (in Oz) and was much more economical. But I lost 14 hp with the automatic. o a solution was sought. Now I have a powerful engine that is easy to tune/work on and adjust eg valve tappets. I think the only improvement I will consider apart from more boost is a single point fuel injection unit.....one day. I want to ride it for a while first.
The SC install is a good easy cheap and uncomplicated remedy.
If you decide to Sc your vw engine or other engine I'd recommend it. Good luck.
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