Time to replace drive belt.

Dear trikermutha:

I am old shcool myself. The newest bike i have is 24 yrs old.

The long bolts are a new one on me too.

I am picturing in my mind the stator cover that is about 6 inches in diameter,

I cant see how you can remove the inner primary cover without removing the stator cover and stator. under that cover you will find the stator which is magnetic. there should be 3 small screws holding your stator in place. the cover may frustrate you but it does slip over the windings on the stator. (it may not feel like it wants to come off)

Take a look at where the wires come through the case. it should tell you what side of the primary its on. when you remove the stator you will have to push the wires through the case to remove the stator and there for your inner primary cover.

(use a little silicon on reassembly to prevent leaks)

Im not saying for sure the inner primary has to be removed first, but thats an alegin concept to me!

The importance of keeping the comensator and cluth assemblies together is to keep the direction of travel on your primary chain the same as it was,

There is a timing mark on the clutch hub and beleive it or not if you install them in a unit they will almost fall back together. clutch adjustment when you get done is simple.

loosen the lock nut run the small center screw in to where its finger tight, back it off one half turn and tighten lock nut, take the slack up with the cable adjuster until you have 1/4 inch play at your clutch lever.

I hope i have helped.

Paul

Thanks.. I was amazed how they redesigned from the older Harleys.

It was really simple to pull the primary off. Keeping the clutch together was great! Also looked at my compensator and that looks like brand new as I have heard others having issues.

I even used my battery operated impact wrench to remove the compensator and clutch nuts.

Just got to get my butt back out to the garage and finish up the project of replacing my stator.
 
Its a little more complicated to perform this task on a Triglide, without getting the book out I beileve the rear differential has to come out. Also as trikermutha said the clutch plates don't have to come out of the clutch basket, the compensator bolt is a lot tighter than 120 ft/lbs. If the OP is decides to tackle the project him self he would be best served to buy the service manual and trike supliment before he starts.
I recomend the service manual also. As you need to know how to torgue the b0lts and in what sequnce when putting things back togther also..

Good Luck..
 
The inner primary will come off without pulling the stator cover, there is no need to remove the stator unless your replacing a bad stator. You can see the stator cover still in place with the inner primary removed in this picture.

sprocket6.jpg

Thank you my friend for the education on the new models.

Thats the kind of info i can sure put to use!

This is a great source of info!

' Paul c,
 
I recomend the service manual also. As you need to know how to torgue the b0lts and in what sequnce when putting things back togther also..

Good Luck..

Dear triker mutha:

I agree, I guess i had assumed folks would have the service manual open for reference. I sure do it that way.

One other thing i did with my old bike was to use a bit of silicone on the threads bolts on the inner primary. I hate to to do this job twice.

I have found that The Harley shop can do this these types of jobs in way less time than i can, But im retired and have the kind of time i could never find while on the road as a trucker.

Paul c.
 
Dear triker mutha:

I agree, I guess i had assumed folks would have the service manual open for reference. I sure do it that way.

One other thing i did with my old bike was to use a bit of silicone on the threads bolts on the inner primary. I hate to to do this job twice.

I have found that The Harley shop can do this these types of jobs in way less time than i can, But im retired and have the kind of time i could never find while on the road as a trucker.

Paul c.

FYI they dont used silicone anymore on the inner promary bolts they have a seal built into the backside of the head of the bolt. The starter I just found out pulls out of the inner primary once the two bolts are removed. The older models you had to remove the starter jackshaft. I was really amazed on some of the design changes Harley has made.

Anyway the inner promary is off and the stator has been removed. Now I can see why it leaked. Looks like a cheap made rubber seal that goes thru the engine.
 
FYI they dont used silicone anymore on the inner promary bolts they have a seal built into the backside of the head of the bolt. The starter I just found out pulls out of the inner primary once the two bolts are removed. The older models you had to remove the starter jackshaft. I was really amazed on some of the design changes Harley has made.

Anyway the inner promary is off and the stator has been removed. Now I can see why it leaked. Looks like a cheap made rubber seal that goes thru the engine.
Harley has made it a lot easier to remove the primary! Now if they would fix the made in China rubber seal :10:
 
Harley has made it a lot easier to remove the primary! Now if they would fix the made in China rubber seal :10:

The other thing that amazes me is how technology makes me realize how antiquated an old biker like me really is!

Looking at the pictures sure convices me the the whole job looks allot easier than on the older models.

It would ALMOST make me look forward to changing a belt!

I rode a new tri glide belonging to a friend of mine, What sweet ride that is!

Paul c,
 
Harley has made it a lot easier to remove the primary! Now if they would fix the made in China rubber seal :10:
well what kills me too is that I ordered up the new stator back in Nov and said they were back ordered till Feb 2nd. Then come to find out they obsoleted the stator with the D prefix and went back to the stator with the B prefix.. Yea I was like what??

Anyway when I was working on the trike this morning I was looking at the drive belt and all I seen was labor labor labor to get the belt off. But also seen mine needed a adjustment.
 
:D
The other thing that amazes me is how technology makes me realize how antiquated an old biker like me really is!

Looking at the pictures sure convices me the the whole job looks allot easier than on the older models.

It would ALMOST make me look forward to changing a belt!

I rode a new tri glide belonging to a friend of mine, What sweet ride that is!

Paul c,

AHH Not antiquated. Just refined!!:D

Yea it is a nice ride..Cant wait for winter to end!!!pepper
 
:D

AHH Not antiquated. Just refined!!:D

Yea it is a nice ride..Cant wait for winter to end!!!pepper

The friend i mentioned has a rock hole in the center of the new belt, I wouldn't worry about that. But i sure wish we lived closer together so we could give you hand just for the experience.

My dealer said they have never changed the belt on a tri glide either.

Acouple years ago i had a shop talk me into an after market belt.

I cant swear if the belt was inferior or if they took the lazy way out and damaged the belt while installing it? but the darn thing started tearing the drive lugs off of it at the end of last riding season when i was about 400 miles from home.

I reached jackson hole wyoming and found the dealer only sold apperall and such. ( thats about as worthless as mammories on a boar swine).

The only option i had was to go and equadistance back to Pocatello Idaho, or come on ahead to Casper,Wy.

The darn belt held up long enough for me to baby it home but i sure wouldn't want to have gone any further.

I just replaced replaced the belt and front and rear drive pulleys ( i suspect the swing arm and wheel was not not quite alighned right, I could see uneven wear on the drive pulleys) so the operation was fresh in the memmory.

I bought the original equipt. belt and i would just as soon do this type of work myself and not have to suffer some elses mistakes?

Paul
 
Mike is correct, you have to have all manuals. It takes two people that are mechanicaly inclined. Most dealers have not performed this job. I feel better about doing it myself than having one of Harleys finest do it. We got the new belt on it last night. We plan on getting the rear buttoned up and aligned tonight. I'll update you tomorrow.

I used dial calipers to get the side to side adjustment within .002.

rearmeasure.jpg
 
Thank you my friend for the education on the new models.
Thats the kind of info i can sure put to use!
This is a great source of info!
' Paul c,

Your more than welcome, sharing is what it is all about. One thing great about Trike Talk is the wealth of information which can be had, no sense in trying to reinvent the wheel if someone else has done it for you:).
 
Yes I agree but have to replace the stator as the plug is leaking. I was hoping not to have to pull the inner primary off. But the stator rotor hits the inner primary towards the front on it I found out. Plus I got creative and used a 90 deg snap ring plier that can be used as a stator rotor puller.:D

When I pulled the cover off my 06 Ultra I wiped all the oil off and snatched a hold of that sucker with my hands, they be some strong magnets:D.
 
Anyway the inner promary is off and the stator has been removed. Now I can see why it leaked. Looks like a cheap made rubber seal that goes thru the engine.

Wait till you get to feed the new one in, I used a lot of Windex as a lube then pulled and wiggled.
 
Yep I have done a few stator on the EVO engines..Now my first Twin Cam. Looking forward to alot of swearing :D from the yanking and pulling. Hope its easier than the EVO.
 
The friend i mentioned has a rock hole in the center of the new belt, I wouldn't worry about that. But i sure wish we lived closer together so we could give you hand just for the experience.
My dealer said they have never changed the belt on a tri glide either.

Acouple years ago i had a shop talk me into an after market belt.
I cant swear if the belt was inferior or if they took the lazy way out and damaged the belt while installing it? but the darn thing started tearing the drive lugs off of it at the end of last riding season when i was about 400 miles from home.
I reached jackson hole wyoming and found the dealer only sold apperall and such. ( thats about as worthless as mammories on a boar swine).
The only option i had was to go and equadistance back to Pocatello Idaho, or come on ahead to Casper,Wy.
The darn belt held up long enough for me to baby it home but i sure wouldn't want to have gone any further.
I just replaced replaced the belt and front and rear drive pulleys ( i suspect the swing arm and wheel was not not quite alighned right, I could see uneven wear on the drive pulleys) so the operation was fresh in the memmory.
I bought the original equipt. belt and i would just as soon do this type of work myself and not have to suffer some elses mistakes?
Paul
Yea I know how you feel wondering if you will make it home when a issue is like that..
 
I used the dial calipers also. We got it all alligned we will put the primary back on tomorrow and take it for a test drive. I'll give another update when it is back on the road. ThumbUp

Good to see you have it almost wrapped up, your test ride should be a satisfying ride.
 

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