Started problems

Apr 4, 2011
16
0
Rosemount, MN
Starter problems

I just bought my trike from a shop 6 hours from me. When they dropped it off, it wouldn't start. The guy said the battery was probably cold. Since they dropped it off, I've ridden it 5 or 6 times. Now comes the problem. Every time I want to ride, I have to take the cover off the starter and push on the plunger, then put the cover back on, and the trike will start. The guy from the place that I bought it from said to cut the spring a 1/4 " to try and fix the problem. Can anyone else give me any other suggestions why the starter won't engage when I want to start it. Since I haven't ridden in 33 years, I'm a little apprehensive about cutting the spring.
 
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Cutting some spring off the plunger is a load of BS!

What happens when you press the start button with the ignition on? Do you hear a click, or any sound from anyplace. It could be a starter-relay or switch...a loose wire, a bad/sticking plunger or contacts, solenoid winding...any number of things. You need to "detail" what happens.....what do you hear if anything.

I don't want to ever be caught near this idiots place of business! He is shooting you a line of crap, or is totally stupid...or both.

The fact that it starts right up when you push the plunger means most of the starter motor components are okay and the battery as well. On all my bikes, I install a push-button cover that simply bolts on the same place you are removing your cover to start it now as a back-up.

Go switch it on....push the starter button and tell us what you hear and where you hear it....if anything.
 
When I push the starter button and when I release it, I hear it click. Like I said, when I take the cover off the starter and push the plunger down a couple of times, then replace the cover, it starts right away. I went a bought a shorter spring. I don't know if it will work or not. I know most electrical springs are black, the one I bought is silver.
 
Long shot diagnosis with no indication of what kind of vehicle your trike is - but spray a bit of spray lubicant (non-silicone type) in/on/around the 'plunger' (but don't drown it) and you should be OK.
 
Sounds like the start-button and the relay are at least working and pulling-in. That doesn't mean the relay still can't be defective, it simply eliminates the starter button and associated wiring to the relay. It could be a plunger sticking, but you should be able to tell how hard it is to push-in....since you have been doing that. If those contact surfaces are cruddy....you could be pressing hard enough to mash through the crud. I still would like to know if the clicking is "at the solenoid" or someplace else. The someplace else would be the stater relay...if the click is on the end of the starter, then you have plunger contact issues.

Look at the contact surface of the plunger and inspect the terminals in the face there in the solenoid body under the plunger to make sure they are not burned, corroded, etc.

I think you may have to invest in a volt meter and see if you are energizing the solenoid pull-in coil to trouble-shoot this thing....or take it back to that shop that told you to cut the plunger spring and the reason it won't crank is the battery is cold.
 
Let me back-up and apologize a bit for coming across so strong against the shop. It just aggravates me to no end to hear recommendations/excuses like this, which really are pretty stupid. Like.."it won't start because the battery is cold". I do not know of a single solitary soul who goes out and heats his/her battery with a torch, or electric blanket to make it crank. Or "cut some coils off the plunger spring"...this is pure shade-tree garbage. That spring was designed to push the plunger back off the contacts, otherwise...your starter would stay engaged.

It is true that a battery that is weak will fail on a cold day, but a good battery should crank the bike on any day. I was not making fun of any owner. Everybody has to learn somehow....we all did.

You were very astute in realizing that cutting some coils off that spring did not sound "quite right". It's certainly not a common everyday fix for a starter solenoid. You can get out the jumper cables and jump it off with your vehicle to eliminate the possibility of a bad battery. If it will crank with jumper cables, you may have battery, or charging circuit issues. If it won't....you have starter, or starter circuit/component issues.

Go get em'!
 
I would have them come and pick it up and fix it the right way ==why buy something that dont work or you need to fix --give it to them --
 
Where is this plunger you speak of . Sounds like #1 you have a bad battery will it start off a jumper battery? # 2 you have a bad if not 2 bad relays A & B one by your right foot the other to the right of the battery box change both if u do one .
 
Every vehicle's battery is "cold" until the vehicle is started. According to that guy's advice, it's a miracle that ANY vehicle starts with a key.

It's true that a weak battery can give a "click", but so can a faulty electrical component from starter relay thru to starter.

Two more things you can try:

If you have a digital multimeter, with the bike not running, touch the leads to the battery terminals and see if it reads at least 12.7V. Then start the trike however you've been doing and touch the leads on the battery terminals at idle and see if the readings go up and stay within a couple of points of fluctuation. This would tell you that the voltage regulator is doing it's job of replenishing the battery...........If there's a battery problem, it would be a matter of whether or not the battery can actually HOLD the charge it receives.

Then turn the trike off. Let it cool down for a bit. Check the Starter Relay terminals to insure that the connections are clean and tight. Don't reset the plunger and with key in the "On" position and without using the Starter Button, jump the Starter Relay terminals and see if she fires up. If it fires up without having reset the plunger, then the problem might not be the plunger, but the Starter Relay. If putting a jumper between the Starter Relay terminals doesn't allow fire up, then you've narrowed it down to either faulty Starter Relay and/or faulty Starter.
 
Sounds like either a weak spring or a dirty plunger. If the spring doesn't return the plunger to it's full "home" position in the solenoid after the starter button is released it will not actuate fully the next time you press the start button.......I think?? I believe that's why you have to push it back with your finger before you can start the bike.
 
Thank your for all the replies. First of all, this bike was just built and completed 3 weeks ago. All the parts on the trike should be brand new. Second, I'm not very mechancally inclined, especially since this is the first motorcycle that I have owned. The trike was supposed to be built using Harley parts. I contacted the shop I bought it from this morning and told them that I would feel more comfortable if they came to look at it or if they would pay to have another bike shop look at it. Their response to both suggestions was "no". They weren't willing to drive 6 hours to look at what they considered to be a 2 minute job and they weren't willing to pay somebody else money for the same job. I've contacted a custom bike builder that lives about 15 miles from me, and I'm thinking about taking the trike over there and paying them to troubleshoot the problem for me.
 
I am confused ,, You said it was built at a shop. Well the bike and the trike are 2 different things. It was a new Harley to start with or an older one? If the answer is older, than they would not have touched any motor parts the starter problem belongs to the original 2 wheeler and will remain after the conversion. We U and I don't have a clue were the Donor bike came from ... Not giving us a lot of info . LET's start over what year and make is it 1st.
 
Sorry John, I mixed my words up. My trike is brand new, just completed 3 weeks ago. Here is the advertisement from the builders web site: THIS IS THE NEW 300 MEGA TRIKE, THIS BIKE HAS THE MASSIVE 140 CUBIC INCH ENGINE WITH A NECK TWISING 175 HORSE POWER, BACKED UP BY A SIX SPEED TRANS AND A 3" OPEN BELT DRIVE AND A BARNETT CLUTCH , IT HAS TWIN 300 MM REAR TIRES, HAND BUILT CUSTOM FRAME, SPRINGER FRONT END, CUSTOM STRETCHED 4.6 GALLON GAS TANK, CHROME FOWARD CONTROLS, HAND MADE OIL TANK AND MUCH MUCH MORE. I hope this helps clarify things John.
 
I have just contacted a custom builder in the town that I live in and he said he would look at it to find out what is wrong. This guy was so much more helpful than the guys that I bought it from.
 
Let us know what they find. Good idea if you are not mechanically inclined.
 
Good luck. I wish some of us others were close enough to come over and help you and it's too bad you have this problem on a new build. I don't think it will be that hard to trace the problem and fix it. Too bad the folks you got it from are such a!!-holes. Now that I think on that....I would never let them touch it again anyway. No telling what you may get back.

Just another custom-builder with an attitude. They have been watching too much American Chopper, or Biker Build-off on TV.
 
John, I'm glad to see you found it. I haven't figured out how to post my album yet. As soon as I have time and can figure it out, I have several pictures of my trike.
 
Well, the guys at the shop that built my trike called me tonight and said that they were going to ship me the parts that I need to fix the problem. When I get the parts and get them put in, I'll let you all know if it worked or not.
 
Judging from the picture, I think what we apparently have here is a built-up machine from aftermarket parts. NOTHING wrong with that at all, but we really don't know what starter, or guts iowaguy has. From the description of the motor, it likely has a large aftermarket starter on it and it may very well be that a weaker plunger return spring is what is needed and may be common practice in the custom bike world. I think we have been giving standard answers and suggestions based on our thoughts this was a box-stock HD machine....which it isn't.

I'm like John.....tell us what they send you.
 
The parts arrived today. A week and a half later than promised, but I now have the parts. They sent me a shorter starter spring and shorter starter bolt. I installed the parts today and she started right up. Also included for my trouble were 2 t-shirts, one for me and one for my son.
 
I think most of us were of the opinion you had a stock Harley and that is where our remarks and suggestions were directed. That has to be an aftermarket starter on your bike....which is just fine.

Apparently, it has a feature which allows for different strength plunger return springs. Possibly to prevent the contacts from sticking due to the high current needed to turn that large starter motor. I would still consider getting one of those covers with the push-button on it just as insurance.
 

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