Roadsmith performance sway bar worth it?

brianl

300+ Posts
May 16, 2013
325
191
Leominster, MA
Name
Brian
I'm considering having the sway bar on my GL1500 Roadsmith replaced with the new "performance sway bar" to reduce the "rolling" (falling off) feeling while going around long twisty corners at 45 mph and faster. My kit was installed in 2013 and this wasn't an option at that time. It is now. The fact that they now offer it makes me think that maybe I'm not the only one that has this problem. I was wondering if anyone else has had this option installed and if it seemed to help.
 
Hi Brian,
Roadsmith began offering its "performance" sway bar in January of 2011. The larger sway bar was not introduced to fix any problems, but rather to offer a more performance-oriented handling option. The larger sway bar will stiffen the ride somewhat and reduce some of the "roll" you describe, but only at higher speeds under more extreme cornering. If this is what you are looking for, then it might be a good option for you.
 
Brian, I have the 2012 RS conversion with the performance sway bar, so it was offered at time of conversion for $49, the cheapest option offered except the trunk light, so I jumped on it. I have not ridden a RS without the performance bar, but it feels good in the twisties, so it works for me. Tearing off that tupperware to get to get the sway bar installed might get a tad expensive, so your choice. If I did a lot of mountain riding, I might spring for the install.
 
I just got my Goldwing converted 3 weeks ago, I also ordered the Performance sway bar, on my first ride in twisties it felt like it had a bit of body roll, I stiffened my shocks to the middle setting, now it feels great in the curves, my friend can't keep up with me now on his Wing now, imho definitely worth getting.
 
I just got my Goldwing converted 3 weeks ago, I also ordered the Performance sway bar, on my first ride in twisties it felt like it had a bit of body roll, I stiffened my shocks to the middle setting, not it feels great in the curves, my friend can't keep up with me now on his Wing now, imho definitely worth getting.

Does anyone know if there is an adjustment on the GL1500 for the shocks?
 
I have the performance sway bar on mine along with the Accuride System to maintain proper ride height at any load. We live and ride in the Arkansas twisties and I'm happy with the handling at all speeds and curves. :pepper:
 
I also have the performance sway bar on mine. Although I really don't ride aggressively especially in the twisties, I can say that my trike feels more like a 'Slot Car' taking corners. She feels very well planted to the road! ThumbUp
 
Learn to push down w/your "outside" foot in a corner. That will overcome the feeling of being thrown sideways in a aggressive corner. A lighter push helps in taking corners normally.
 
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment on the GL1500 for the shocks?

The rear shocks on the HT1500 conversion are Progressive 642... regular 13" coil over shocks that have 5 preload settings. The preload can be changed with a standard shock tool. My installer set our shocks on the softest preload and that truly sucked. Ride was bad and it handled terrible riding two up with a full load. Shocks are now on stiffest preload position.

Takes about 2 seconds once you get under the trike. I talked with out installer and he said he felt the heavy duty sway bar was a fantastic upgrade as it helps both handling and ride. He found this out by accident when he got his hands on a trike that had one installed. Since he rides all the kits all the time, the difference was very noticeable to him.

Get the HD sway bar as it can only be installed with body off which is the only thing keeping me from buying one. Also, the 642 shocks come with two spring rates; normal and heavy duty. I have a set of springs I think I will try with substantially higher spring rates than the heavy duties. The shocks are eye-to-eye type and the trike needs to be jacked up and then one shock unbolted at a time. There will be some sag so a jackstand and jack to raise the sagging trike (once the shock is off) will be needed. You would also need to have a shock spring changing tool... I have one already.
 
When I picked my trike up from the installer and rode it home they had it set on the softest setting, the first few curves I took it felt very uncomfortable, now that I stiffened up the progressive shocks it plants itself in the curves, and the ride is still comfortable, I also have the adjustable pre load set on 6 one up and 14 for two up. I had the installer at the Honda shop set the shocks for me and he gave me a shock tool if I need to make changes.
 
When I picked my trike up from the installer and rode it home they had it set on the softest setting, the first few curves I took it felt very uncomfortable, now that I stiffened up the progressive shocks it plants itself in the curves, and the ride is still comfortable, I also have the adjustable pre load set on 6 one up and 14 for two up. I had the installer at the Honda shop set the shocks for me and he gave me a shock tool if I need to make changes.

The shocks are what you adjust first to as close to that perfect ride you want / most if not all installers leave them on their softest setting which for most is to soft and that's where body roll happens, along with that slap in the back of the head wondering why you took that turn so fast. My co-rider does not like roll so jack it up from the rear end so both sides hang, that takes the pressure off the shock and turn the bottom adjuster to stiffen / do both sides equally, mine took the third notch as we are on the heavy side and the roll has left the building. Now my manual hydralic shock / sway bar tensioner stays on the low side at 5 - 8 when one up and 10-12 two up with our cargo trailer.... haven't been slapped in a long time.... a fast learner I was!!!
 
Thank you everyone for your advice. It looks like the sway bar and shocks adjustment are the way to go. Still waiting for the dealer to get back to me about the $$$ part.
 

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