PreLoad Adjustment Setting

[kenwantz]

I just bought a 2003 GL 1800 RoadSmith trike and am new at riding one of these gorgeous machines, much less any motorcycle. I'm curious what folks set the preload adjustment to on their rear suspension under various road conditions. I'm 200 lbs and my wife around 120 lbs. I'd appreciate any help with this.

 

[Gold Rush]

I just bought a 2003 GL 1800 RoadSmith trike and am new at riding one of these gorgeous machines, much less any motorcycle. I'm curious what folks set the preload adjustment to on their rear suspension under various road conditions. I'm 200 lbs and my wife around 120 lbs. I'd appreciate any help with this.

Welcome to the three wheel world Ken!!!

This may not be totally by the book but it's how I have done it and it works. :xszpv::xszpv:

First set your preload to zero and the mechanical adjustment on each rear shock to the middle position. Go for a ride on typical roads. If the ride is too rough lower the shock manual setting until that feels good. Next put your wife on and repeat. You may need to go up or down to gain the same comfort level (probably up). Now you have an idea of static setting. Remember it is difficult to adjust the shock setting on the road so I'd choose the lesser of the two settings.

Next you start playing with the preload. It is not really meant as a compensation for weight as much as it to prevent body roll but there is some benefit there so the preload will adjust for lighter passengers and cargo.

One thing you need to understand about the OEM Honda actuator. Just because your dash indicator says you are making an adjustment does not mean you really are. Many OEM systems do not start moving the hydraulic piston until you reach 8 to 10 on the indicator. Any number below that may as well be zero. So how do you tell?? Turn the ignition on but do not start your engine. Begin at zero and adjust up while listening for a audible change in the adjustment motor tone. When you hear the motor load - that is true zero. There are ways to correct the offset but that is a topic for later.... :cxtv:

Now that you have identified true zero you can start playing with that adjustment while riding solo, two up, on straight or twisting roads. So many variables you will have to work out. I personally set my preload 5 above true zero for normal riding and another 5 above that when in the twisties.

I hope that help you out some Ken. SAFE RIDING MY FRIEND!!

 

[Gorilla]

Don't forget the tire pressure. Makes a gig difference on all trikes. Most run 20 to 24 in rear and depending on the tire 35 to 40 in front.

 

[kenwantz]

great information, Jerry. Thank you very much, I will do as you suggested!! ThumbUp

BTW I have a friend with an older trike who suggested I put 42 lbs in front tire and 24 lbs in rear tires. So, at least this has me started on the right foot toward safe, comfortable rides.

 

[Dude]

I have a roadsmith as well and the only adjustment I have is the manual on the springs which I have set one notch stiffer than center, seems like it does better in the curves to me if it is set a little stiffer, I also run 32 PSI rear tire pressure. This has worked for me.

 

[tfdeputydawg]

One thing you need to understand about the OEM Honda actuator. Just because your dash indicator says you are making an adjustment does not mean you really are. Many OEM systems do not start moving the hydraulic piston until you reach 8 to 10 on the indicator. Any number below that may as well be zero.

All that means is the pump is low on fluid and needs to be filled! That should be done first.

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BTW I have a friend with an older trike who suggested I put 42 lbs in front tire and 24 lbs in rear tires. So, at least this has me started on the right foot toward safe, comfortable rides.

Try 36psi in the front! Gives a much smoother ride!

 

[kenwantz]

All that means is the pump is low on fluid and needs to be filled! That should be done first.

- - - Updated - - -
I'll check it, but where is the fluid reservoir located and what type or brand hydraulic fluid to use?

 

[Gold Rush]

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I'll check it, but where is the fluid reservoir located and what type or brand hydraulic fluid to use?

There in lies the problem Ken. It is not suppose to be a serviceable item (no reservoir) but some of us have taken the hydraulic pump apart and serviced it. It's not super difficult. Just takes time and a little patience.


UPDATE !! I found the link to where I got my procedure. Here it is for your viewing pleasure:

http://goldwing.eurekaboy.com/reservoirfill.htm

 

[kenwantz]

Jerry, I looked at the procedure in the link and I see what you mean about needing time and patience to service the reservoir. Wow! Guess I'll be satisfied with the pump the way it is.

 

[Solidbob]

I think once you are triked this is under the trike body if I'm not mistaken....

 

[Gold Rush]

Jerry, I looked at the procedure in the link and I see what you mean about needing time and patience to service the reservoir. Wow! Guess I'll be satisfied with the pump the way it is.

Yup, As Bob says, it's a chore to get to. Truth be know it is not a big deal. There is plenty of adjustment unless your pump is nearly empty. Once you determine where the "True Zero" is, you can adjust from there to your comfort level then make a mental note (or write it down) so you can make adjustments as needed.

 

[kenwantz]

Thanks to everyone for their comments to my original post. But I still need a little more help please.

So, I looked under the trike to see if I could see how to do the mechanical adjustment on the shocks to get a baseline that was mentioned. But I really couldn't tell what piece on the shock needed to be turned to make any adjustment. However, what I saw on the right shock was a somewhat oily shock and oil residue on the spring. In comparison the left shock and spring were both dry as one would expect to see. Does this meant there could be oil leaking from the shock or from the adjustment pump and a possible weak shock I took measurements of the height above the ground of the rear end underneath each shock and found the right side is approx. 1/2 in lower than the right side. Don't really know if this is significant, but the oil residue bothers me. Question: How do I manually adjust the shock before setting the preload electrically. Do I need to use a special adjuster tool to make the adjustment?

 

[Gold Rush]

Thanks to everyone for their comments to my original post. But I still need a little more help please.

So, I looked under the trike to see if I could see how to do the mechanical adjustment on the shocks to get a baseline that was mentioned. But I really couldn't tell what piece on the shock needed to be turned to make any adjustment. However, what I saw on the right shock was a somewhat oily shock and oil residue on the spring. In comparison the left shock and spring were both dry as one would expect to see. Does this meant there could be oil leaking from the shock or from the adjustment pump and a possible weak shock I took measurements of the height above the ground of the rear end underneath each shock and found the right side is approx. 1/2 in lower than the right side. Don't really know if this is significant, but the oil residue bothers me. Question: How do I manually adjust the shock before setting the preload electrically. Do I need to use a special adjuster tool to make the adjustment?

Sorry I couldn't find a better photo Ken. Look at the shock just below the spring. There should be a series of multiple steps (I think five positions) to set the tension. You do need a wrench designed to do that adjustment. Originally it did come with the kit so maybe it is part of the took kit if that was with the trike when you bought it. If not I'd see if any motorcycle shop might have one. They are pretty common. I hope that helped you.

As for the oil, I don't know. You may have to do some investigating there .. :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[Papa Zook]

Regarding the front tire air pressure, just read what the recommended air pressure on the tire is according to the manufacturer and run that. The newer tires are typically 41 or 42 lbs.

 

[kenwantz]

Sorry I couldn't find a better photo Ken. Look at the shock just below the spring. There should be a series of multiple steps (I think five positions) to set the tension. You do need a wrench designed to do that adjustment. Originally it did come with the kit so maybe it is part of the took kit if that was with the trike when you bought it. If not I'd see if any motorcycle shop might have one. They are pretty common. I hope that helped you.

Thanks Jerry, this is exactly the info I needed to know. I'll look for the tool; if can't find one maybe I'll try using a lock wrench wrapped in a cloth to avoid scarring up the piece on the shock.
As far as the wet shock, I bet it's leaking and will need to be replaced.

 

[Marc H]

I'm just south of Spring City and I have a few spanners if you don't have one.I'm sure we can get it adjusted if you need some help.

 

[kenwantz]

I'm just south of Spring City and I have a few spanners if you don't have one.I'm sure we can get it adjusted if you need some help.

Thanks for the offer, Marc.ThumbUp I certainly could use help, especially since I am so inexperienced with a motorcycle/trike. Always eager to learn and fix things myself, if I am able. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Gold Rush]

I'm just south of Spring City and I have a few spanners if you don't have one.I'm sure we can get it adjusted if you need some help.

Now That folks is what it's all about.. Marc you are a stand up guy!!

Thanks for the offer, Marc.ThumbUp I certainly could use help, especially since I am so inexperienced with a motorcycle/trike. Always eager to learn and fix things myself, if I am able. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon.

We're glad you are getting some near by help Ken. Over the years I can't count the number of times someone showed me something so I could later pass it on. There is no doubt you will get your chance.

Ride Save my Friends!!! :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[Catfish]

Well, that sucks:AGGHH:, I checked out my 2009 GW Champion conversion. No pressure until it reaches 8-9. The pump is behind and at the very edge of the kit body setting straight up - hose at the very bottom. I'm not going to take the shell of the kit off and will live with the 9 through 25 setting until it is an absolute necessity. :Crap:

 

[Gold Rush]

Well, that sucks:AGGHH:, I checked out my 2009 GW Champion conversion. No pressure until it reaches 8-9. The pump is behind and at the very edge of the kit body setting straight up - hose at the very bottom. I'm not going to take the shell of the kit off and will live with the 9 through 25 setting until it is an absolute necessity. :Crap:

Terry, you know where true zero is now so all is good. I just can't imagine ever needing that much adjustment. You should be fine.

Now you can enjoy your Champion even more!! :xszpv::xszpv:

 

[Catfish]

Jerry, you bet, it was a good learning process. Even though I didn't have the detailed knowledge prior reading this thread I sure knew what a good setting was or wasn't and had set to best ride for wife and I from the beginning. I very much appreciated the detailed knowledge provided. ThumbUp