Over heating problem what to check next

Nov 8, 2011
18
0
Yuma Az
2005 GW trike started to over heat this year never a problem before. Pressure checked rad cap it's OK fluid level OK fan OK rad fins clear of debris what should I check next. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated

THANKS
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>skipg</strong>
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<div class="message">2005 GW trike started to over heat this year never a problem before. Pressure checked rad cap it's OK fluid level OK fan OK rad fins clear of debris what should I check next. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated<br />
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THANKS</div>

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</div>Have you checked the condition of the coolant yet? Never did see you mention the age. If it OEM then it's WAY overdue changing.
 
I hope Im not in your boat and in my case its just the heat here.
But as Jerry said age of coolant??
If its OEM which I believe mine was.
It was time for some new juice.
Wasn't a hard job at all on the wing.
Im as lazy as it comes these days.
 
When its overheating what are the symptoms? Is the temp guage pegged,is it spewing coolant on the ground? How long since youve changed the coolant and cleaned out the radiator. You can get a product called Bug B Gone by Seafoam to spray in your radiators and then hose them out to get rid of all those critters in there.
 
Radiator was serviced last year new coolent was added at that time. When going up a steep grade the temp gauge will red line. When down on the flats gauge reads normal. It does not loose any coolent or steam when red lined.I'm thinking thermostats or water pump.
 
Radiator was serviced last year new coolent was added at that time. When going up a steep grade the temp gauge will red line. When down on the flats gauge reads normal. It does not loose any coolent or steam when red lined.I'm thinking thermostats or water pump.

2nd guess,bad gauge or batt. ground.:Shrug:
 
Anyone ever try Redline water wetter Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives - WaterWetter®. We ran it in the race cars and I used it in a snowmobile I had which was ported and pipped and ran warmer than normal, in all cases it did a pretty good job for us.

When I changed my fluids this weekend.
I was seriously thinking using just water and WaterWetter. plain water was always good enough while road racing in my cars up north during the summer time.
Big swing in temp differences plain water vs antifreeze 50/50.
My head got the better part of it.
As it never frezzes here plain water and any protectant for the aluminum should be better you'd think.

I should have at least tried it anyway.
Maybe next time.
 
When I changed my fluids this weekend.
I was seriously thinking using just water and WaterWetter. plain water was always good enough while road racing in my cars up north during the summer time.
Big swing in temp differences plain water vs antifreeze 50/50.
My head got the better part of it.
As it never frezzes here plain water and any protectant for the aluminum should be better you'd think.

I should have at least tried it anyway.
Maybe next time.

I ran 50/50 antifreeze with water wetter added to the mix in my sled with no issues. I don't have any problems with my 2012 but may include some water wetter in its diet when it comes time to change the coolant.
 
I ran 50/50 antifreeze with water wetter added to the mix in my sled with no issues. I don't have any problems with my 2012 but may include some water wetter in its diet when it comes time to change the coolant.

My mind wanted to use just water and some water wetter.
But since I had a gallon of 100% anti freeze I went 50/50 with some Royal purple in it.
Fans still come on at the same points. No change still low 90s mid 80s here too.
 
Just my 2 cents worth. When changing your anti-freeze, you would be well advised to use Honda coolant or a coolant with same properties. Not just any brand of anti-freeze or additive will work in the Honda system.

There was another post where an individual used a generic brand and ruined the water pump on his Goldwing.

As far a overheating, along with what has been already mentioned, you might want to check the radiator cap. Could be bad and it is kind of pricey, for a radiator cap.

Good luck with your fix.

'08 GL1800 CSC XL
Eagle Man:Coffee:
 
As far a overheating, along with what has been already mentioned, you might want to check the radiator cap. Could be bad and it is kind of pricey, for a radiator cap.

Eagle Man:Coffee:

I was having an overheating problem on my 06 RS. First thing the dealer said was check the radiator cap, I was loosing antifreeze/coolant from the overflow. The dealer said that any Honda radiator cap that would work on a Honda car would work on a GL1800 I went to Auto Zone and bought a new cap, changed it to the car radiator cap and drove it from LA to DC and home, about 7,000 miles, without any trouble. The problem wasn't the cap for me so I put a by pass switch on the fans and controlled them manually when necessary.
 
If you were going slow (around 25mph), elevated temperatures are normal. As I understand it, the fans are set not to run at engine speeds above 15 mph. At slow speeds, there is limited airflow over the radiators, and the temperature will increase. When mine did this, the radiator never belched any fluid but the temperature gauge was at the top. I was able to get around the truck on the mountain road, the temperature went back down. Talked with some experienced wing people and they said this is normal. Some people wire manual switches to over ride the fan controls but this gets quite involved.

For further reading http://www.northamericangoldwings.com/view_topic.php?forum_id=23&id=758
 
Some people wire manual switches to over ride the fan controls but this gets quite involved.

For further reading http://www.northamericangoldwings.com/view_topic.php?forum_id=23&id=758

It's not terribly involved I did mine in the parking lot of a Pep Boys parts store. I took out the fan relay and determined it was good so I left it out and put the bypass switch in place of the relay. A few fittings, 12 feet of #10 stranded wire and a 30 amp switch taped to the front brake master cylinder and I was back on the road.
 

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