Oil Change

Comanche

Contributing Member
Feb 7, 2010
374
7
Copperas Cove, TX
Having never changed the oil on my trike I got the impulse to do it. Watched the Cruiseman video a couple of time (Thanks Cruiseman)<br />
<br />
Went to Wallyworld and got the necessary goodies. Laid down a plastic sheet on my garage floor. <br />
<br />
Engine was hot so took off the front part of the belly pan, and with a 17mm socket drained the oil. Had a bit of a tussle removing the filter, but it came off and oil drained into the drain pan. I let it drain for about 20 minutes and replaced the filter. Even remembered to wet the seal with a finger tip of of oil as explained. Put a new crush washer on the bolt and could not find the 17mm socket. Looked everywhere. <br />
<br />
Replaced the oil without spilling any.<br />
<br />
So, I used a 17mm open end wrench.

NOT THE SAME as using the 17mm socket. Could not get the torque with the open ended wrench. <br />
<br />
Did not replace the belly pan as I was not sure if the bolt was sufficiently tight. I put down some newspapers and checked it a hour later and there were oil drops on the paper. Oh Crap. Looked for the 17mm socket and I could not find it. Put the drain pan under the engine and left it there overnight In the morning I found maybe 5 drops in the pan, but knew it was not right. Ran it to the dealership and a wrencher told me the bolt was finger tight. He tightened it, checked the oil filter. (that was good) and replaced the belly pan.

No charge other than a $20.00 tip.<br />
<br />
Now for the good part I took the old oil with only 6200 miles on it to dump it this morning at a friends car center. I was interested how clean/dirty the used oil was and it was very clean. I put some on my thump with a peice of newspaper between the thumb and the oil and could read the print on the paper.<br />
<br />
Don't want to start a oil war, but this is regular 10W-40 non-synthetic oil and it did not look half-used. <br />
<br />
BTW, I found the 17mm socket. Point of story is you need a socket to properly tighten the drain plug. A box end wrench will not work. Or, it did not for me. <br />
__________________
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Comanche</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?p=77099#post77099" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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<div class="message">Having never changed the oil on my trike I got the impulse to do it. Watched the Cruiseman video a couple of time (Thanks Cruiseman)<br />
<br />
Went to Wallyworld and got the necessary goodies. Laid down a plastic sheet on my garage floor. <br />
<br />
Engine was hot so took off the front part of the belly pan, and with a 17mm socket drained the oil. Had a bit of a tussle removing the filter, but it came off and oil drained into the drain pan. I let it drain for about 20 minutes and replaced the filter. Even remembered to wet the seal with a finger tip of of oil as explained. Put a new crush washer on the bolt and could not find the 17mm socket. Looked everywhere. <br />
<br />
Replaced the oil without spilling any.<br />
<br />
So, I used a 17mm open end wrench.

NOT THE SAME as using the 17mm socket. Could not get the torque with the open ended wrench. <br />
<br />
Did not replace the belly pan as I was not sure if the bolt was sufficiently tight. I put down some newspapers and checked it a hour later and there were oil drops on the paper. Oh Crap. Looked for the 17mm socket and I could not find it. Put the drain pan under the engine and left it there overnight In the morning I found maybe 5 drops in the pan, but knew it was not right. Ran it to the dealership and a wrencher told me the bolt was finger tight. He tightened it, checked the oil filter. (that was good) and replaced the belly pan.

No charge other than a $20.00 tip.<br />
<br />
Now for the good part I took the old oil with only 6200 miles on it to dump it this morning at a friends car center. I was interested how clean/dirty the used oil was and it was very clean. I put some on my thump with a peice of newspaper between the thumb and the oil and could read the print on the paper.<br />
<br />
Don't want to start a oil war, but this is regular 10W-40 non-synthetic oil and it did not look half-used. <br />
<br />
BTW, I found the 17mm socket. Point of story is you need a socket to properly tighten the drain plug. A box end wrench will not work. Or, it did not for me. <br />
__________________</div>

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</div>Remember honda standard is 10k for and oil change, I use HONDA FULL SYN 10-30 and it looks great after 10-15k, good clean running engine is the answer why!:pepper::wtg::beerchug::Flag:<img src="images/smilies/nojoke smilie.gif" border="0" alt="" title="NoJoke1" class="inlineimg" />
 
I would have driven to Lowe's or wally World or even a Auto Zone and bought a new 17mmm socket for $6.00.
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>TRIKERBOB69</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?p=77141#post77141" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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<div class="message">Remember honda standard is 10k for and oil change, I use HONDA FULL SYN 10-30 and it looks great after 10-15k, good clean running engine is the answer why!:pepper::wtg::beerchug::Flag:<img src="images/smilies/nojoke smilie.gif" border="0" alt="" title="NoJoke1" class="inlineimg" /></div>

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</div>Per my manual its 8,000 miles. I guess the newer ones have a longer interval.
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>John Luciano</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?p=77144#post77144" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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<div class="message">I would have driven to Lowe's or wally World or even a Auto Zone and bought a new 17mmm socket for $6.00.</div>

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</div>Hell No! That would have been the sensible thing to do.::woohoo:
 

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