no oil cooler on the 2015

it doesn't have one because of the wet head cooling. they put the coolant pump were the oil cooler ex-changer was mounted. most people say they are quite happy with the wet head also Known as TWIN COOL by HD
 
Most have said they are not having any issues with high oil temps on their Twin Cool's.

The heat in the heads seems well taken care of by the OEM coolant/radiators/fans. Although I'm still running the Wards fans on my wethead, and just feel better keeping the temps down with the fans in slow going.

However, on the oil, for me, it is a problem not having an oil cooler...I like my oil to not go over 230* as a rule, and not over 250* in the exceptional circumstances. For me, on my 2014, with the way I ride, and places I ride, I have seen the oil flirting with 300*. I've tried one oil cooler that I am not happy with, will be installing a Jagg in a couple of months, and believe that will do the trick.

On my '11 TG the Jagg Wideline did a great job.

Kevin
 
Most have said they are not having any issues with high oil temps on their Twin Cool's.

The heat in the heads seems well taken care of by the OEM coolant/radiators/fans. Although I'm still running the Wards fans on my wethead, and just feel better keeping the temps down with the fans in slow going.

However, on the oil, for me, it is a problem not having an oil cooler...I like my oil to not go over 230* as a rule, and not over 250* in the exceptional circumstances. For me, on my 2014, with the way I ride, and places I ride, I have seen the oil flirting with 300*. I've tried one oil cooler that I am not happy with, will be installing a Jagg in a couple of months, and believe that will do the trick.

On my '11 TG the Jagg Wideline did a great job.

Kevin
Hi Kevin,
Have you figured out where to put the oil cooler? I'm also interested.
 
Most have said they are not having any issues with high oil temps on their Twin Cool's.

The heat in the heads seems well taken care of by the OEM coolant/radiators/fans. Although I'm still running the Wards fans on my wethead, and just feel better keeping the temps down with the fans in slow going.

However, on the oil, for me, it is a problem not having an oil cooler...I like my oil to not go over 230* as a rule, and not over 250* in the exceptional circumstances. For me, on my 2014, with the way I ride, and places I ride, I have seen the oil flirting with 300*. I've tried one oil cooler that I am not happy with, will be installing a Jagg in a couple of months, and believe that will do the trick.

On my '11 TG the Jagg Wideline did a great job.

Kevin

agree%20smilie.gif
Kevin that your oil is best at 230 degrees!! I use to think that if mine got much over 180 - 190 degrees that I should be concerned. My H-D Technician (personal friend) advised me that a good oil temp was 230 degrees and he was concerned that most owners continually try to keep their oil too cool for evaporation to take place.

Roger
 
Hi Kevin,
Have you figured out where to put the oil cooler? I'm also interested.

I am going to try the Wideline 10 Row off the left downtube (no thermostat), right behind the lower fairing vent. It will have to be at a bit of an angle, but with the vent open, it should have good air flow across it. I believe that will do the job. If it does not, I will put one under the body, between the left rear wheel and the rear pulley. Will have to make a bracket for it, and probably an air scoop.

Kevin
 
Just a thought, but have you considered the
[h=1]Milwaukee Twins Dual Cool II Oil Cooler[/h]http://www.jpcycles.com/product/7400140

I know they don't work well stopped in traffic, but I do know they work very well while moving. They set in a free air area on the down tubes in the front. No fan is used.
 
I am going to try the Wideline 10 Row off the left downtube (no thermostat), right behind the lower fairing vent. It will have to be at a bit of an angle, but with the vent open, it should have good air flow across it. I believe that will do the job. If it does not, I will put one under the body, between the left rear wheel and the rear pulley. Will have to make a bracket for it, and probably an air scoop.

Kevin

Maybe you'll have better luck, I'm running the 10 row wideline on my 06. Only way I could have kept the lower would have been to tuck the cooler tight to the engine which looked goofy. If you would go under the body you might want to keep something to bypass the cooler with, underneath is a good place for a rock strike. I had a cooler on an 05 Classic mounted in front of the regulator, took a rock hit and leaked oil like a pig. For a cooler under the trike you might want to look at the Oil Bud cooler https://harleyoilcoolers.com/, they say their virtually indestructible.

cooler.JPG
 
agree%20smilie.gif
Kevin that your oil is best at 230 degrees!! I use to think that if mine got much over 180 - 190 degrees that I should be concerned. My H-D Technician (personal friend) advised me that a good oil temp was 230 degrees and he was concerned that most owners continually try to keep their oil too cool for evaporation to take place.

Roger

Roger,

The below article was written by Harley concerning Harleys HD360 oil. Take a look at bullet# 5 it talks about the proper oil temps for oil and backs what your saying. There is some other good information in this article too.

I also :Agree:

Ride Safe, :)
Bill G



The Following Information was provide by Harley- Davidson Service, 3rd Floor.

1. Why should I use Harley-Davidson motor oil? This is the only available motorcycle oil specially developed for Harley-Davidson motorcycle engines. It is also the only available oil tested for two years by our engineering staff on engine dynamometer stands in Milwaukee and motorcycle track tests at Talladega. And in other tests, Harley-Davidson has found it to be superior to other oils.

2. Can I use aviation oils in my Harley-Davidson? We do not recommend this, because these oils do not contain an important additive that provides good wear protection of the Harley-Davidson engine.

3. What viscosity grade should I use in my Harley-Davidson? The recommended viscosity grade for use in all temperatures is SAE 20W50 Harley-Davidson Oil. The SAE 50 grade is satisfactory in ambient temperatures of 60 deg to 90 deg F, and the SAE 60 grade is appropriate for ambient temperatures above 80 deg to over 100 deg F.

4. At what temperature will Harley-Davidson HD360 break down? This oil has been designed for use at temperatures up to 300 deg F for extended periods with no significant breakdown.

5. What oil temperature is best for my Harley-Davidson? A good oil operating temperature range is 200 deg to 240 deg F. Water condensation and acids tend to build up in the oil if the temperature is consistently below 180 deg F, and oil thickness can become marginal at temperatures above 300 deg F.

6. Does Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil do anything besides lubricate engine parts? Yes. Besides lubricating engine parts and preventing wear, it protects the engine from rust and corrosion, keeps the inside of the engine clean, cools engine parts and "seals in" combustion pressures, prevents foaming, permits easy starting and quick oil circulation, and reduces friction and power loss.

7. Is it true that oil never wears out? No. All motor oils wear out. During normal use, the oil molecules undergo a chemical reaction with oxygen and begin to break down; additives in the oil become depleted; and contaminants like water, gasoline, soot and dust get mixed in with the oil. Therefore, your motorcycle oil needs to be changed at the interval recommended by Harley-Davidson.

8. Can I go longer between oil changes if I put in a new oil filter? No. The filter keeps the oil free of solid matter, but it doesn't remove water, gasoline or acids. Also, it can't pinch-hit for additives that become used up. Follow Harley-Davidson's recommended intervals for oil and oil filter changes, and don't expect a new filter to extend the life of the oil.

9. Is it okay to mix Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil with a different brand? Harley-Davidson Motorcycle oil is compatible with other petroleum oils. However, mixing with another oil will reduce the superior engine protection of Harley-Davidson oil, so this should be done only when absolutely necessary.

10. Does it help to put in a can of additive with each oil change? No. Just as you wouldn't add sugar to a bottle of soda, you shouldn't use additives with Harley-Davidson Motorcycle oil. It already contains the right additives in the correct amounts to last between recommended oil changes. More additives won't help. In Fact, they might upset the oil chemistry and create problems you wouldn't ordinarily have. Use Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Oil and forget the extra can of additive. It's money down the drain.
 
Maybe you'll have better luck, I'm running the 10 row wideline on my 06. Only way I could have kept the lower would have been to tuck the cooler tight to the engine which looked goofy. If you would go under the body you might want to keep something to bypass the cooler with, underneath is a good place for a rock strike. I had a cooler on an 05 Classic mounted in front of the regulator, took a rock hit and leaked oil like a pig. For a cooler under the trike you might want to look at the Oil Bud cooler https://harleyoilcoolers.com/, they say their virtually indestructible.

View attachment 27496

I hope to get a good angle off the downtube...it seems like I will be able to, but if not, I will go under the body with a scoop, so the cooler will (hopefully) not be terribly vulnerable to rocks. But like you say, keep a hose and some hose clamps with me in case I need to bypass it.

Below is a copy and paste from another thread....I have an Oil Bud, I had high hopes for it...but it just is not doing the job for me.

btw, I now have 4000 miles with the scoops and they are still there. :)

***********************************

As I noted months ago in this thread, I have not been satisfied with how much the Oil Bud oil cooler actually cools down the oil. I have not taken the time to remove the Oil Bud and replace it with a Jagg oil cooler.

However, the other day I did a little experiment.

I took a funnel, cut it in half (and did a few little fitment cuts) and then attached the two halves to the frame, underneath the water pump cover. The theory was that they would scoop air and push it across the oil bud.

It is a jerry-rig for sure, but I was happy to see it lowered the oil temps a solid 10 degrees, so that is giving me a solid 25 degree total drop out of the Oil Bud. Not nearly as much as I expected, but better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

I do not see this as a long term fix, and the funnel halves are the lowest point now, so they may possibly get ripped/knocked off at some point, but until I take the time to remove the Oil Bud and decide where to put a Jagg cooler, it is what I am going to be running.

Here's a pic-

OilBudScoops_zpsbchwuszy.jpg


It should be noted that on bikes with no water pump assembly and shroud, I have seen the Oil Bud deliver impressive drops in oil temps, as it should for the impressive price. However, my experience with the waterheads has been less than satisfactory, and it is understandable, the pump & shroud are blocking the flow of air over the unit, whereas with no pump and shroud the unit is directly in the wind.

Kevin
 
I hope to get a good angle off the downtube...it seems like I will be able to, but if not, I will go under the body with a scoop, so the cooler will (hopefully) not be terribly vulnerable to rocks. But like you say, keep a hose and some hose clamps with me in case I need to bypass it.

Below is a copy and paste from another thread....I have an Oil Bud, I had high hopes for it...but it just is not doing the job for me.

btw, I now have 4000 miles with the scoops and they are still there. :)

***********************************

As I noted months ago in this thread, I have not been satisfied with how much the Oil Bud oil cooler actually cools down the oil. I have not taken the time to remove the Oil Bud and replace it with a Jagg oil cooler.

However, the other day I did a little experiment.

I took a funnel, cut it in half (and did a few little fitment cuts) and then attached the two halves to the frame, underneath the water pump cover. The theory was that they would scoop air and push it across the oil bud.

It is a jerry-rig for sure, but I was happy to see it lowered the oil temps a solid 10 degrees, so that is giving me a solid 25 degree total drop out of the Oil Bud. Not nearly as much as I expected, but better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

I do not see this as a long term fix, and the funnel halves are the lowest point now, so they may possibly get ripped/knocked off at some point, but until I take the time to remove the Oil Bud and decide where to put a Jagg cooler, it is what I am going to be running.

Here's a pic-

OilBudScoops_zpsbchwuszy.jpg


It should be noted that on bikes with no water pump assembly and shroud, I have seen the Oil Bud deliver impressive drops in oil temps, as it should for the impressive price. However, my experience with the waterheads has been less than satisfactory, and it is understandable, the pump & shroud are blocking the flow of air over the unit, whereas with no pump and shroud the unit is directly in the wind.

Kevin

Interesting, it makes sense, hope you can get a favorable angle on the downtube.
 
Thank you, me too. The pic of the angle on your 06 is not one I'll be happy with. Hopefully the Lowers are a bit further forward on the 14 TG and it will work. I'll know in about a month.

Kevin

I tried to keep the lowers on the 06, couldn't get the cooler in a position to allow them to fit, doors open or doors closed. The lowers are now residing in my back garage.
 
Whrn the 2014s came out I put off buying one since they took the oil cooler off for the wet head. I figured they eould rework it above on the frame. When not changed for 2015 I went ahead abd bought. It would be no big deal to rework a cooler to fit above the new systrm. Victory has a very nice V-shaped oil cooler between the down tubes.
 

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