New Crank Position Sensor: Help

[electrictat2]

I have a 2011 Tri Glide. I replaced my [FONT=&quot]crank position sensor today. The bike would crank before hand and now nothing. I have even put the old sensor back in and nothing. It all started a few months ago, sometimes it would crank, sometimes it wouldn't. The starter would turn over it just would not hit. Might try the next morning and it would fire right up. I had it happen a couple of times recently and was told to try the crank sensor. Now you hit the switch and nothing at all, the voltage meter doesn't even drop. Makes me think something is going on with the security. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.[/FONT]

 

[Jack Klarich]

Do you have a Fob? Is the battery in it OK?

Have you run a diagnostic scan on your trike?

Read here,

https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html

 

[electrictat2]

Codes

When I go into diagnostics it begins with [FONT=&quot]PSSPt but it has a "6" or a "b" at the end. I have researched but can't find what it stands for. Any ideas?

[/FONT]

 

[Jack Klarich]

When I go into diagnostics it begins with PSSPt but it has a "6" or a "b" at the end. I have researched but can't find what it stands for. Any ideas?

View attachment 102148

That looks more like a part number or a module code I have not yet seen

Try again, you should see something more like Po151- P2603 with no letters or prefixes after the number

Your trike right now does not turn over with the starter? Prior to this it did this with a hot engine? Also the crank but not start?

 

[Jack Klarich]

You did not follow the scan I gave you far enough. Re scan your bike, pay attention to the following steps

[FONT=&quot]4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]SP = speedometer[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]T = tachometer[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]7 - Record the codes.[/FONT]

 

[Gorilla]

You really need to change the battery on the FOB before doing anything else. If it's weak it may not be triggering the security system all the time. Other choice before going further would be to de-activate the security system if you wrote the code down.

 

[ultrafxr]

To retrieve the Diagnostic Trouble Codes the engine run/stop switch MUST be in the RUN position. What you displayed in the photo looks like perhaps you ran the test with the switch in the stop position.

And if I understand correctly when you try to start now nothing at all happens - no cranking of the starter motor, no clicking of the solenoid - nothing. If that is correct then like you said I think the security system is active and doing its job in preventing the engine to start. If you know your PIN try using that to disarm the security and see if you can get it to crank and start.

Good luck it getting it sorted.

 

[windsurfed]

I have a 2011 Tri Glide. I replaced my crank position sensor today. The bike would crank before hand and now nothing. I have even put the old sensor back in and nothing. It all started a few months ago, sometimes it would crank, sometimes it wouldn't. The starter would turn over it just would not hit. Might try the next morning and it would fire right up. I had it happen a couple of times recently and was told to try the crank sensor. Now you hit the switch and nothing at all, the voltage meter doesn't even drop. Makes me think something is going on with the security. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Well, what was the problem?

 

[PosseRider]

Don't ya just love it when they never update their problem ???? Before all these electronics, if a crank position was bad, it cranked just fine,just wouldn't fire right away. Finally fire but would also stall out at an idle. Had one replaced in Mo. on the way home to Va.many many yrs ago.

 

[rhino 2]

Don't ya just love it when they never update their problem ???? Before all these electronics, if a crank position was bad, it cranked just fine,just wouldn't fire right away. Finally fire but would also stall out at an idle. Had one replaced in Mo. on the way home to Va.many many yrs ago.

Maybe it was just the FOB Battery.....Or the main Battery..And some people are embarrass to say it was that simple..:Shrug:....

 

[Jack Klarich]

Don't ya just love it when they never update their problem ???? Before all these electronics, if a crank position was bad, it cranked just fine,just wouldn't fire right away. Finally fire but would also stall out at an idle. Had one replaced in Mo. on the way home to Va.many many yrs ago.

Maybe it was just the FOB Battery.....Or the main Battery..And some people are embarrass to say it was that simple..:Shrug:....

Some folks say crank or wont crank, I have learned over the years to ask more details, IE some when they say crank it means it is turning over but does not fire

I think this is the posters meaning here, but he is AWOL so we cannot help him