Neutral ? Alternative ?

Jul 24, 2014
137
69
Atwater, CA
Name
Thomas
First - In order to start my 2015 Tri-Glide - I need to put it in neutral ! This is often - a real problem, as it takes like 3-4-5 tries to get it there.

It goes to First -- I gently try to coax it to Neutral, and it goes to Second. Try to coax back to Neutral - It goes to First. !!

1st. Question -- IS this just Me ? or does everyone have this situation.

2nd. Question -- Is there a way to "un-hook" the sensor, so as to just pull in the clutch - to start?
 
Not sure about a 15 but on my 17 I am able to pull the clutch and apply the front or rear brake and it should crank.

It may be the same for the 15.

Mine quit working though so it is going to the shop this week to get it fixed.

I have to go through a gate on the way to work with a line of traffic behind me so it is a real pain should I kill it and have to find neutral.

Bob
 
First - In order to start my 2015 Tri-Glide - I need to put it in neutral ! This is often - a real problem, as it takes like 3-4-5 tries to get it there.

It goes to First -- I gently try to coax it to Neutral, and it goes to Second. Try to coax back to Neutral - It goes to First. !!

1st. Question -- IS this just Me ? or does everyone have this situation.

2nd. Question -- Is there a way to "un-hook" the sensor, so as to just pull in the clutch - to start?

No its not you.....

My 11 Tri, Always was hard to find neutral.....What i would do is put it in first then ''Very'' Gently tap the heal shifter into neutral... Work every time that way...

If i used the toe shifter whats happening to you would happen to me...
 
Change tranny oil to real gear oil. I run Bel-Ray 85W-140. I get neutral by going to first ... then a light heel tap for neutral. It gets better with more miles.

Adjusting your heel shifter 1 spline down so it just compresses the floor board rubber when you apply to up shift also helps ... and more comfy to use!!

Bob :Dorag:
 
First - In order to start my 2015 Tri-Glide - I need to put it in neutral ! This is often - a real problem, as it takes like 3-4-5 tries to get it there.

It goes to First -- I gently try to coax it to Neutral, and it goes to Second. Try to coax back to Neutral - It goes to First. !!

1st. Question -- IS this just Me ? or does everyone have this situation.

2nd. Question -- Is there a way to "un-hook" the sensor, so as to just pull in the clutch - to start?

It has been said by others so I am just here to further let you know that:

1. No, it is not just you. Yes, everyone has this situation.

2. You should not have to concern yourself with UN-hooking any sensor. Try starting in gear with your foot brake depressed, it may or should even work if you have your front brake on. But for sure, you have to have a brake applied to start in gear.

3. I also can find neutral with a heal tap. But when all else fails, reach over and move into neutral by hand.
 
It's much easier to find neutral from first if it's in first when you shut it down. Also, mash the hand brake real good when you start it.

Finding neutral became easier with use for me. I don't know if it broke in or I figured it out.
 
14 and up have this " safety" mode from HD. To start in gear apply either front or rear brake, pull clutch in and it'll start. Also try starting in gear with trike moving slow to simulate a stalled trike in traffic, a light pressure on the front brake ( not enough to stop it ) and it should start...be prepared for this situation....
 
14 and up have this " safety" mode from HD. To start in gear apply either front or rear brake, pull clutch in and it'll start. Also try starting in gear with trike moving slow to simulate a stalled trike in traffic, a light pressure on the front brake ( not enough to stop it ) and it should start...be prepared for this situation....

On my 17.....The only way to start in gear is Clutch pulled in...And heavy pressure on the foot ''Brake''.....''Light'' pressure it wont start... After reading all the different posts on this, I experimented on my 17, And what i found.......At least on my 17... If i hold the starter button in , ''Before'' i firmly step on the brake it won't start, I have to come off the button ' [While still on the brake] Then press it again...
 
I dunno about the Tri Glides, but my 15 and 17 Freewheelers never have a problem finding nuetral, eveb from 2nd gear it is always a half click. I readjusted my linkage, I ran more threads and cut the rod shorter, NEW heim joints ( the stock HD joints are pure JUNK) Gear Lube IMO makes a BIG differance. JMO
 
First - In order to start my 2015 Tri-Glide - I need to put it in neutral ! This is often - a real problem, as it takes like 3-4-5 tries to get it there.

It goes to First -- I gently try to coax it to Neutral, and it goes to Second. Try to coax back to Neutral - It goes to First. !!

1st. Question -- IS this just Me ? or does everyone have this situation.

2nd. Question -- Is there a way to "un-hook" the sensor, so as to just pull in the clutch - to start?

Me too, Bought a used 2012 TriGlide in 2013. Been riding 50+ years, Harleys for 26+ years. Can't find neutral in the Triglide at complete stop. If I don't get it in neutral while it is still rolling, forget it. Often times have to shut it off, find neutral, restart the engine to back it up. H-DMoCo says it's me not the trike. Dealer will adjust clutch and neutral is easier to find, of a few months only. With the engine running, in first gear with the clutch engaged, it will roll forward on level surface. Dealer claims they can't reproduce condition, of course they are lying to protect H-DMoCo. I guess I'll live with the problem.
 
First - In order to start my 2015 Tri-Glide - I need to put it in neutral ! This is often - a real problem, as it takes like 3-4-5 tries to get it there.

It goes to First -- I gently try to coax it to Neutral, and it goes to Second. Try to coax back to Neutral - It goes to First. !!

1st. Question -- IS this just Me ? or does everyone have this situation.

2nd. Question -- Is there a way to "un-hook" the sensor, so as to just pull in the clutch - to start?

My 2015 was a bit iffy going into Neutral when new - Now with better tranny oil ~ A well adjusted clutch and break in, it's no problem 95% of the time. I also got in the practice of sliding into neutral before I come to a complete stop, much easier.

And - Clutch in - Either brake and mine will start up. If you have to mash either brake to get it to work, take it in and have that sensor adjusted.

jc
 
I hate to beat a Dead horse, IMO the MOCO outsmarted itself and the public

The hydraulic clutch should have NEVER been released to the public with out any way to adjust the free travel

I know a lot of folks have been told how good and maintain ace free this set up is I AGREE, BUT there is NO such thing as a self adjusting self centering clutch IT JUST DOES NOT EXIST

Sorry for the rant, I have been working on an adjustment and I have it figured out :cool:
 
It's way easier to find neutral while the bike is still moving, even a couple feet before stopping.

Push HARD on the foot brake and it will start in gear every time.
 
Re- neutra

Finding neutral - is worse than "Finding Waldo"

At least you know - Waldo is somewhere in the picture.

Sometimes I wonder if Neutral is "Even" in the picture. Or ever my future.

Do any of Harley's engenders - ever actually test ride a bike ?
 
Me too, Bought a used 2012 TriGlide in 2013. Been riding 50+ years, Harleys for 26+ years. Can't find neutral in the Triglide at complete stop. If I don't get it in neutral while it is still rolling, forget it. Often times have to shut it off, find neutral, restart the engine to back it up. H-DMoCo says it's me not the trike. Dealer will adjust clutch and neutral is easier to find, of a few months only. With the engine running, in first gear with the clutch engaged, it will roll forward on level surface. Dealer claims they can't reproduce condition, of course they are lying to protect H-DMoCo. I guess I'll live with the problem.[/QUOTE]

Update: Who says you can't teach an old dog ... after reading more posts I decided to re-install the heel shifter lever. I've removed it on my other 2-wheel Harleys (4) over the years and never had an issue with finding neutral. When the engine isn't up to normal temp., a soft tap of the heel shifter finds neutral like magic! When the engine is hot, as in it's 105 degrees in Las Vegas and I'm riding in stop and go traffic, the heel shifter isn't much good - yet. I ordered and extended heel lever and will try it again. (The stock levers don't leave enough room on the boards for my size 13 boats.)
 
So there I was coming home from my 10,000 mile service. What's this I say to myself, I got into neutral twice by accident? huh?

So anyway, I was feeling a little cheesed off at the cost of my service so I get in the users manual to see what they did (or should have done). (Real men don't read instructions or users manuals right?)

So there I am reading this thing and what the heck is this I see?

Page 130 of the users manual says "Do not overfill the primary chain case with lubricant. Overfilling can cause rough clutch engagement, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag and/or DIFFICULTY IN FINDING NEUTRAL at engine idle."

I'm thinking it's possible that I got a good tech this time who made all the correct adjustments and didn't overfill the primary.

I'm finding neutral easier now. Go figure.........
 
I've solved the problem. Installed a "Rekluse Clutch" Wished I had done it from the beginning.

Hey Tom...When you get enough miles on the clutch, Let us know all the Pros and if any Cons....I know i would be interested in getting one, Thanks ThumbUp.....
 

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