JUST KNIVES

BillR

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Aug 31, 2015
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Gloucester, VA
Name
Bill
Starting a new thread to keep all the new knife posts together and not clutter up the Late Night thread. Not that there's anything wrong with that.



Scott got my interest in Buck knives rekindled so I acquired a few new (old) ones. Top is a 110, middle is a 112 and the bottom is an 055 (supposed to be a half size 110).


110,112,055.JPG
 
Isn't that called a switch blade and therefore illegal. At least in most states. Or does the word "auto" or automatic get around the switch blade laws. I thought the words spring assist got around the switch blade laws but this is quite spring assisted.:Shrug::Shrug::Shrug:
 
Isn't that called a switch blade and therefore illegal. At least in most states. Or does the word "auto" or automatic get around the switch blade laws. I thought the words spring assist got around the switch blade laws but this is quite spring assisted.:Shrug::Shrug::Shrug:

Law enforcement and first responders can own them. You have to have valid credentials to buy one.
 
To any that care...here is the state by state legality of switchblade knives. Lucky that I live in a very free 2nd amendment state.

http://weaponlaws.wikidot.com/us-switchblade-laws

NY states that they are NOT to be used for self defense . But it’s ok to shoot :Shrug:. In any life or death situation , I’ll deal with the conciquences later.

As Bob said ; “ Cary a BIG STICK ! Poke , don’t swing it.
 
NY states that they are NOT to be used for self defense . But it’s ok to shoot :Shrug:. In any life or death situation , I’ll deal with the conciquences later.

As Bob said ; “ Cary a BIG STICK ! Poke , don’t swing it.

That’s how I feel. I’ll be driving through several states (including yours) that aren’t friendly to knives or guns in late summer. I’ll be taking my chances with both concealed on my side. But the fact I’m a federal LEO should help matters a little.
 
Way to go, Frank. Another nice one.

What's the procedure for the Neetsfoot oil? Inside and out, or outside only?
 
Way to go, Frank. Another nice one.

What's the procedure for the Neetsfoot oil? Inside and out, or outside only?

Both , then insert the weapon and it will form to it. When doing Gun holsters , wet the leather , then insert the gun mold and let it dry. Then oil just to keep it from drying out. Too much will soften the leather to loose its shape.
 
End result , after wet leather has dried with a 38 special mold inserted after 2days
 

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Got a nice surprise in the mail a day earlier than expected . :clapping: Smooth , and quality item.

Need to get some Needsfoot oil for the sheath. Will definitely get the 112 in February.

Looking good, Frank!

I didn’t want to say, but I had a feeling that it would get there early because mine arrived 2 days earlier than what they quoted me.
 
Yes, I’m a Southpaw .

I was gonna ask when I saw the empty holster, but you beat me to it. Me too. I notice those things.

Thanks for the info on oiling the leather. I have a couple old ones that need sprucing up.
 
Both , then insert the weapon and it will form to it. When doing Gun holsters , wet the leather , then insert the gun mold and let it dry. Then oil just to keep it from drying out. Too much will soften the leather to loose its shape.

I've never done this so would like a little bit more info.

  1. Just how wet do you get the leather? Soaking like submerged in oil or what?
  2. How long does it take to dry?
  3. How do you get the depressions like the trigger guard and trigger. Some vacuum or something?
  4. And confirm, it is neatsfoot oil and not water to do this forming and drying.
  5. Any kind of neatsfoot? I hear some swear by Fiebing's for some reason so wonder if you have a preference too.

Anything else you might suggest for a first timer would be appreciated. Sorry to bug you on what you might think is common sense but I've just never done anything with leather other than use it. Well, except for my old baseball glove and that I did use neatsfoot oil to shape a pocket for the ball.

But I don't remember how wet I got it or how long it took to dry or any of the particulars involved to get that pocket formed. And it was heavily used immediately after anyone so not really sure what I did had anything to do with the end pocket anyway. That was like 62 years ago or more when I was somewhere around 12 or 14 when I got my first new glove. A glove lost in time too.
 
I've never done this so would like a little bit more info.

  1. Just how wet do you get the leather? Soaking like submerged in oil or what?
  2. How long does it take to dry?
  3. How do you get the depressions like the trigger guard and trigger. Some vacuum or something?
  4. And confirm, it is neatsfoot oil and not water to do this forming and drying.
  5. Any kind of neatsfoot? I hear some swear by Fiebing's for some reason so wonder if you have a preference too.

Anything else you might suggest for a first timer would be appreciated. Sorry to bug you on what you might think is common sense but I've just never done anything with leather other than use it. Well, except for my old baseball glove and that I did use neatsfoot oil to shape a pocket for the ball. But I don't remember how wet I got it or how long it took to dry or any of the particulars involved to get that pocket formed. And it was heavily used immediately after anyone so not really sure what I did had anything to do with the end pocket anyway. That was like 62 years ago or more when I was somewhere around 12 or 14 when I got my first new glove. A glove lost in time too.

1/4” leather is used , a model of the weapon is needed , plastic or wood. Child’s toy gun. Coat the model with wax so it doesn’t stick to the wet leather. Warm water soaking with the model in will emboss it using your fingers

When the leather drys , it will be stiff and molded. Cut out what’s not wanted while the model is still in.

use automotive leather cleaner , paste, to keep it from drying out . Using oil on embossed leather will get soft and you will loose the embossing !!

BTW, before starting , the two pieces or leather must be sewn together loosely. Use the model weapon as a tight fit. After the molding is done , a final sewing is done to its shape. Yes a comercial sewing machine is needed .

Needsfoot oil is used on leather only if you want it soft and plyable , Re baseball gloves , knife sheaths .
 
500 series

My Buck 505 came in today. I recently got the 506 and 501. There is a 507 that has pearl scales that I got outbid on, I'll find one in time.

500 series.JPG

From top down, 500 Duke

501 Squire

503 Prince

505 Knight

506 White Knight (I guess it was, 35 years ago when it was new. The script logo places it between 1979 and 1985). The same date range for the 500 and 503.
 
My Buck 505 came in today. I recently got the 506 and 501. There is a 507 that has pearl scales that I got outbid on, I'll find one in time.

View attachment 82067

From top down, 500 Duke

501 Squire

503 Prince

505 Knight

506 White Knight (I guess it was, 35 years ago when it was new. The script logo places it between 1979 and 1985). The same date range for the 500 and 503.

Very nice collection of 500's there Bill :clapping:
 
Tracking info on my package shows it arrived in Austin, hopefully it will make it to Pflugerville tomorrow and be delivered as scheduled.

Hey Scott, that's the same brown sheath that I brought as well. But it won't arrive until Monday.
 
Tracking info on my package shows it arrived in Austin, hopefully it will make it to Pflugerville tomorrow and be delivered as scheduled.

Hey Scott, that's the same brown sheath that I brought as well. But it won't arrive until Monday.

My new sheath from the saddle maker is coming Monday. I called and asked if he could put a rush on it, and he did.
 
1/4” leather is used , a model of the weapon is needed , plastic or wood. Child’s toy gun. Coat the model with wax so it doesn’t stick to the wet leather. Warm water soaking with the model in will emboss it using your fingers

When the leather drys , it will be stiff and molded. Cut out what’s not wanted while the model is still in.

use automotive leather cleaner , paste, to keep it from drying out . Using oil on embossed leather will get soft and you will loose the embossing !!

BTW, before starting , the two pieces or leather must be sewn together loosely. Use the model weapon as a tight fit. After the molding is done , a final sewing is done to its shape. Yes a comercial sewing machine is needed .

Needsfoot oil is used on leather only if you want it soft and plyable , Re baseball gloves , knife sheaths .

Thanks very much. I was thinking it almost had to be water you use. Do you have a particular 'automotive leather cleaner , paste" you've found works better than others? Or what kind do you currently use. I can see now how people ruin a good holster by putting oil on it thinking they are keeping it from drying out. I don't normally use leather preferring Kydex due to the humidity here and not wanting a dampish holster ruining a gun with rust when stored in my closet. Kydex is just so much safer in that regard.

I do have a knife sheath I'd like to try this on. I bet you use some kind of drier to shorten the drying process. I'll have to let mother nature do the best she can knowing humidity is my enemy and spring and humidity are just around the corner.
 

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