Installation Info needed

Jun 18, 2015
158
66
West Michigan
Bought some goodies for my TG - rear bumper, hitch, and trunk rack. Just waiting for weather to warm so I can install them. Installation looks to be fairly simple on these items but looking for any advice or comments from those that have done it themselves ? Especially interested in the hitch and bumper process. :confused:
 
Tour pack lid luggage rack is easy. Once you open the lid, you will see four round circles embossed into the lid. It is thru the center of each that the mounting bolts go. I used the tip of a sharp scratch awl to indent the center of each embossed ring. Then I used the smallest drill bit I have to drill pilot holes.

Then I simply increased the bit size in increments till I made a hole the bolt would just squeeze through. Doing it this way I never had to put masking tape on the top of the lid while drilling. Also, make sure you use the correct plastic washers. The flat ones go on the inside of the tour pack lid.

The ones with the recess on one side fit the legs. The legs go into the recess with the flat part against the lid. Don't do like one guy and drill out the holes so that the raised flange would go into the holes in the lid. Needless to say, his lid leaked and he had to buy a new lid and start over. I let my dealer do the bumper. I do not like laying on the cold concrete floor of my garage and it really takes two people imho. I do not have a hitch so I can't answer that part.
 
Go to youtube, I know open road outfitters has a video on installing a trailer hitch, could be others, as for the bumper, never installed one, but sure it is pretty self explantory, I'm sure you have directions on how to do it when you bought the bumper, I agree with MikeyTX 2 people would make it easier to install but I believe 1 can do it and just line it up before tightening the bolts, tour pak rack should have instructions also and MikeyTX explain that one, I know J & P has a video of installing rack on youtube.


All for now Trampas
 
The bumper will bolt on with the 4 body mounting bolts under the trunk liner,make sure to have an extra set of hands when running the bolts down tight.You will running the bolts thru the mounting bosses that are welded to the frame,if you over torque these you will break the spot weld loose.There are lock nuts that will get put on from underneath.Straight forward just follow instructions.
 
And exactly why I let the dealer install mine. Very inexpensive insurance. Did it on a Saturday morning when they had free breakfast sandwiches . :D
 
I have put several hitches on triglides since late '08.
The installation is pretty straight forward. One brand will have you move/remove the mufflers to attach the rear support plate. Most others have a rear support plate that will attach to the aft frame member between the mufflers. All will require backing plates slid on top of the forward frame member.

All of this is easy enough to do with a little patience. When all the supporting hardware is in place, I found attaching the hitch to be much easier if you can find a way to have it held in place while you bolt it on. An extra set of hands could do or I use a 2" x 6" x 3' piece of wood with a u shaped 2" x 2" cut on top all held in place by a floor jack.

I do use a full Handy lift for the bike. If you're working on the ground, I would take two Tylenol first.

R/
Scott Smith
 
Appreciate the good tips on installation......:clapping: Now to get the weather to cooperate enough to work in the garage.
 
You can do the bumper yourself....just have to prop one side up to get the other side started. Depending on your thrill factor.....it took me and a friend 10 minutes to take the entire box off the back. Needless to say, hitch install is a snap! And just a heads up - Be sure you bought a hitch that comes out far enough to clear the bumper. Some don't...jc
 
When I installed my luggage rack I used the tape method to choose my placement. FWIW my holes are no where near the in-lid indent marks. They would have had the rack touching the backrest pad on mine. Drill the holes at a slight angle to match the angle of the 4 support legs (not straight up and down). Lid is a PVC based plastic .... not fiberglass.

I wrapped card board around the bumper in 4 spots so when I bolted it up all the spacing was correct from the body.

No hitch for me ..... YET. :)

Bob :Dorag:
 
When I installed my luggage rack I used the tape method to choose my placement. FWIW my holes are no where near the in-lid indent marks. They would have had the rack touching the backrest pad on mine. Drill the holes at a slight angle to match the angle of the 4 support legs (not straight up and down). Lid is a PVC based plastic .... not fiberglass.

I wrapped card board around the bumper in 4 spots so when I bolted it up all the spacing was correct from the body.

No hitch for me ..... YET. :)

Bob :Dorag:
I noticed that when i installed my luggage rack that the holes weren't close to the 4 bosses either.
 
When I installed my luggage rack I used the tape method to choose my placement. FWIW my holes are no where near the in-lid indent marks. They would have had the rack touching the backrest pad on mine. Drill the holes at a slight angle to match the angle of the 4 support legs (not straight up and down). Lid is a PVC based plastic .... not fiberglass.

I wrapped card board around the bumper in 4 spots so when I bolted it up all the spacing was correct from the body.

No hitch for me ..... YET. :)

Bob :Dorag:

When I installed my luggage rack I used the tape method to choose my placement. FWIW my holes are no where near the in-lid indent marks. They would have had the rack touching the backrest pad on mine. Drill the holes at a slight angle to match the angle of the 4 support legs (not straight up and down). Lid is a PVC based plastic .... not fiberglass.

I wrapped card board around the bumper in 4 spots so when I bolted it up all the spacing was correct from the body.

No hitch for me ..... YET. :)

Bob :Dorag:

You are correct in that the rack will be up against the backrest pad. I looked at several ultra limiteds on the sales floor of different dealerships prior to doing my install
 
A little trick I have learned when drilling thru delicate finishes. A piece of painters tape pressed tightly on the painted side, drill thru the taped side, first step should be a very small pin hole drill then stepped up to the size. In order to keep the drill bit from grabbing the paint and tearing off a chunk of paint, run the drill backwards until you have broken thru the paint then change the direction of the drill.

I picked this up from drilling holes thru musical instruments. Nothing like having a nasty drilled hole in a very nice instrument or a finish on a motorcycle. Jim
 
So I guess I'm about +4 on the position of the rack. I too moved mine about an 1 1/2 off the passenger backrest. I thought it looked better there and was easier to mount my stuff on it. jc

I bought the Kuryakyn version anyway (lots less money) so I'm sure I can't use the indents. I will use the tape method and position it where it looks best. ThumbUp[h=1][/h][h=1][/h]
 

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