Harley Tank rubs Groove into Screamin Eagle 10MM Plug Wire!

[Rooster57]

INFO: I ride a 2016 HD Tri Glide with Stage 1 upgrade ....Dealer gave me the proper Screamin Eagle Plugs and Screamin Eagle wires for my 103 engine with its particular upgrades.

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Ok,ok,ok! ......I know this is likely old news to all of you "Old Sages and Steely-Eyed-Drool-Drippin Veteran Hog Riders!"

.....But, for us "Dudes" who haven't had our Tri Glides very long and/or haven't been motorcycling long either (myself included), - I will tell this brief tale and give a warning!

......A few days ago I found myself "Yucking it up" and BS'ing with the guys at the local HD dealer parts counter...........While I was there I decided to get some Screamin Eagle spark plugs and a set of those Phat 10MM Screamin Eagle spark plugs wires (had appx. 19K on original wires so I figured it's about time to change-em) ....I asked if they maybe had some Taylor plug wires? But of course they didn't carry anything but HD wires.......(They said I didn't want Taylors because they sometime have Ohm problems! ....I told'em thats what I'd heard about Screamin Eagle wires too!) .......So, I decided to just get all HD wires and plugs this time and avoid any potential issues....or so I thought.

....Next day, I eeeazzzzed out to the garage and took the seat and tank off the TG so as to have a nice clear view to changing these wires and plugs.......I mean nothin' to it, right?

.............well first off I noticed my Screamin Eagle plugs stated in BIG LETTERS to set gap at .035 (the HD manual says .038-.043) ....I chose to go with .035 as stated on box.:Shrug:

...........Ok, plugs done.......now, to install those nice Phat 10MM Screamin Eagle wires! ...and so I did. (had to use zip ties in a couple places as they were a little too big for the std. wire clips that were already on the frame = no big deal)

........I got the wires where they belonged, then popped'em on the plugs and that was that! ....nuttin' to it!

..............After admiring my work for a few minutes, I grabbed the nearly empty gas tank and eased it back onto the frame in its position.........AND THEN I noticed something's not right!

....the front jugs' new wire actually "majorly rubbed" the bottom of the gas tank at the welded seam! ....I tried relocating the wire - but no way to change the wires' path from the plug to the frame............this is the only way the front wire will go on....and as the wire travels from the plug to the frame = It will rub the gas tanks' bottom welded edge with enough pressure to wear a serious notch into the spark plug wire over time! ....I don't even want to think about what that could mean if it starts arc-ing on the tank!!!!!!

....I thought "Damn-it Harley!" ......only 2 spark plugs each for thousands of bikes and trikes and you won't even slant shape your expensive plug wire boots to fit the wires at a proper angle? (This was not a problem with the original plug wires)

.....anyway, I cut off the 2 straight sections of the old wires longer boots and slit them longwise and slid them over the 10MM Phat wire ....Then I zip tied them in the spot on the wire that would rub the tank......... Next, I zip tied the front jug wire to keep it from rubbing the tank welded seam............"What a bunch of crap trouble this was!"

.....With this job finished, I went to the net and did some research only to find many, many, many riders have had this same problem!!!!!

.........and so, I pass this on to my inexperienced brother rider "DUDES everywhere!" ..... If you change spark plug wires = Check that front cylinder spark plug wire for possible wear damage located at the bottom of the gas tank weld........this is where the wire may develop a deep wear notch if you aren't aware and fix it first!!!!!!

(NOTE: it does NOT take many miles to damage the wire at this spot if it is pressing on that tank weld seam)

......This pic was one I got off the net showing the problem if not addressed:



.......Just thought I'd pass it on to others!!!!

Cheers!

 

[mirider]

This issue is prevalent with the OEM set-up as well. Read a post some time ago about this and solved my problem by cutting a short piece of transparent tubing and slipping it over the front spark plug wire where it tends to rub on the tank. Problem solved......ThumbUp

 

[Firewrench22]

Good reason to go with the Accel coil-on-plug set-up...no plug wires...

 

[Papa Zook]

Good reason to go with the Accel coil-on-plug set-up...no plug wires...

Do you run this setup Thom? If so, can you post a picture of it.

 

[PosseRider]

Do you run this setup Thom? If so, can you post a picture of it.

Zook, found a good read from 2014 hdforum. #12 is good. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/963979-accel-coil-on-plug-ignition.html

 

[PosseRider]

INFO: I ride a 2016 HD Tri Glide with Stage 1 upgrade ....Dealer gave me the proper Screamin Eagle Plugs and Screamin Eagle wires for my 103 engine with its particular upgrades.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok,ok,ok! ......I know this is likely old news to all of you "Old Sages and Steely-Eyed-Drool-Drippin Veteran Hog Riders!"

.....But, for us "Dudes" who haven't had our Tri Glides very long and/or haven't been motorcycling long either (myself included), - I will tell this brief tale and give a warning!

......A few days ago I found myself "Yucking it up" and BS'ing with the guys at the local HD dealer parts counter...........While I was there I decided to get some Screamin Eagle spark plugs and a set of those Phat 10MM Screamin Eagle spark plugs wires (had appx. 19K on original wires so I figured it's about time to change-em) ....I asked if they maybe had some Taylor plug wires? But of course they didn't carry anything but HD wires.......(They said I didn't want Taylors because they sometime have Ohm problems! ....I told'em thats what I'd heard about Screamin Eagle wires too!) .......So, I decided to just get all HD wires and plugs this time and avoid any potential issues....or so I thought.

....Next day, I eeeazzzzed out to the garage and took the seat and tank off the TG so as to have a nice clear view to changing these wires and plugs.......I mean nothin' to it, right?

.............well first off I noticed my Screamin Eagle plugs stated in BIG LETTERS to set gap at .035 (the HD manual says .038-.043) ....I chose to go with .035 as stated on box.:Shrug:

...........Ok, plugs done.......now, to install those nice Phat 10MM Screamin Eagle wires! ...and so I did. (had to use zip ties in a couple places as they were a little too big for the std. wire clips that were already on the frame = no big deal)

........I got the wires where they belonged, then popped'em on the plugs and that was that! ....nuttin' to it!

..............After admiring my work for a few minutes, I grabbed the nearly empty gas tank and eased it back onto the frame in its position.........AND THEN I noticed something's not right!

....the front jugs' new wire actually "majorly rubbed" the bottom of the gas tank at the welded seam! ....I tried relocating the wire - but no way to change the wires' path from the plug to the frame............this is the only way the front wire will go on....and as the wire travels from the plug to the frame = It will rub the gas tanks' bottom welded edge with enough pressure to wear a serious notch into the spark plug wire over time! ....I don't even want to think about what that could mean if it starts arc-ing on the tank!!!!!!

....I thought "Damn-it Harley!" ......only 2 spark plugs each for thousands of bikes and trikes and you won't even slant shape your expensive plug wire boots to fit the wires at a proper angle? (This was not a problem with the original plug wires)

.....anyway, I cut off the 2 straight sections of the old wires longer boots and slit them longwise and slid them over the 10MM Phat wire ....Then I zip tied them in the spot on the wire that would rub the tank......... Next, I zip tied the front jug wire to keep it from rubbing the tank welded seam............"What a bunch of crap trouble this was!"

.....With this job finished, I went to the net and did some research only to find many, many, many riders have had this same problem!!!!!

.........and so, I pass this on to my inexperienced brother rider "DUDES everywhere!" ..... If you change spark plug wires = Check that front cylinder spark plug wire for possible wear damage located at the bottom of the gas tank weld........this is where the wire may develop a deep wear notch if you aren't aware and fix it first!!!!!!

(NOTE: it does NOT take many miles to damage the wire at this spot if it is pressing on that tank weld seam)

......This pic was one I got off the net showing the problem if not addressed:

View attachment 56220

.......Just thought I'd pass it on to others!!!!

Cheers!

Your Right, old news. Have had that problem for several years even with the "stock wires". I forget which bike i had at the time, but, Dealer replaced wires under warranty. NO real need for fancy wires, or changing plugs that soon. Takes a long while for plugs to wear out.

 

[rhino 2]

Spark plugs and wires ''If'' they have to be replaced,Before 5 years or 18,641 miles [30,000km] Then they are cover under the federal emissions control warranty ......That said , That's ''If'' they are bad, Not for vanity reasons ....

 

[Rooster57]

Reply to PosseRider

Hey Bill!

.....Had almost 19K miles.....maybe didnt really need to change wires = just wanted to.

.............But spark plugs? .......I have already changed them at 15K miles (and it made a noticeable difference!)......changed them again at 19K just to check out the Screamin Eagles.

...........I will continued to change plugs every 10K miles from now on in spite of what HD manual says! (many others do too)

.........Really Bill, no need to wait until book tells you to change the plugs..... Do you still have the original plugs on your 2016 TG?

(if so, go on and change them out = $12 for HD std plugs)

.......Hell, you'll likely save 1/2 day travel time on your next trip!!!! :Coffee:

Cheers!

(don't tell Bill I was just playin' around here about the 1/2 day time savings).....but I will change plugs every 10K for sure and keep the TG peppy!

 

[Firewrench22]

I read the thread on the HD Forum, there were a few questions, I can answer a couple. The coils fit in a rubber "grommet" that then fits into the finned housing, so the coils can wiggle around a little, and they are somewhat isolated from the direct engine vibration. There is no extra weight on the spark plug. The finned housings are held in place via threaded adapters that mount to the head bolts with set screws. Then another small screw goes down through the housing to hold it in place.

The wiring harness goes back and plugs in to the original wiring to the old coil. I didn't buy these for any special performance gains. I was thinking about new plug wires and saw these in a display case at a local independent shop. I first used Accel stuff about 46 years ago. He made me a super deal on the coils, they had been in his case for a while. I just looked on J&P Cycles, they want $267 if you are a club member. I think I paid about $150 for them. I like the look, she starts and runs, and no plug wires.

The only downside I can think of is you have to use a 3/32 allen wrench to loosen the 2 screws and lift the assembly off before you take out the plug. Takes an extra minute or 2...YMMV

 

[Rooster57]

Reply to firewrench 22

Hey Thom!

..Damn Dude, that looks awesome!.....Me likes!

Cheers!

 

[Firewrench22]

Oh yeah. I replace the plugs at 10K or so, there's only 2, and they don't cost much...it's not like a guy would save big money leaving them in...

 

[Gorilla]

I've had the coil packs on my TRI for about 3 years now. I like them alot also. I put them on when a plug wire went bad the same way. By the way those set screws are a bit of a pain, but you don't need to remove them often.