CSC Drive Shafts

In July last year my splines sheared and spoke with CSC who kindly sent a new set of course I paid the shipping. If they have to be welded who on earth will do this over in the UK? I was stranded when it happened and do not want it to go again. When it did happen there was 22000 on the clock............


:AGGHH: yikes! @ least you had 22000 on her (I believe right?)
ours almost sheered & we have 9000!!!!!!!!!! :censored:
 
I also talked to CSC Tech. service today and he informed me that the weld fix is for mid year 2007 and newer. Does not sound like a very well thought out repair. You're having the tailshaft on the GW welded to the CSC driveshaft and what effect does this have on the GW transmission warranty. I believe I would have to say BS, come up with a repair that is more inline with the 12k to 15k I'm spending or have spent on your conversion. Is CSC going to pick up the additional labor charge if you need to replace a tailshaft seal and you now have to seperate the conversion from the bike to gain access? I apologize in advance if I'm in error on these assumptions, but a fifty cent weld could end up being $$$$$$$$$$$.


:censored: If my husband could type & spell he'd have pages of sensorship!!
we agree w/you & yes they need to come up w/ a better answer!! they have a new shaft since 2012 & they REFUSE to provide it to those w/the faulty shaft. I say we all need to file against CSC untill they do the right thing & provide us ALL w/ the new shaft!:mad:
 
:censored::Wrong::gah:

My husband is a retired Mill Wright (industrial machinery...pump drive line assembly, precision alignments, certified welder ect..) since our drive shaft nearly sheered off & rubber coupler is cracked 3 places on BOTH sides, (by the way we just rolled over....9k mi's) We have studied CSC's drive shaft problem & came to an answer. Honda incased their drive shaft (whole thing) to protect it from the elements/environment..dust,dirt water ect..CSC has removed that protection exposing it to the environment allowing debre,h2o dust & like ours RUST to enter the shaft causing failure! The reason for it failing is the intermediate shaft needs to be serviced every 3-5k mi's. (NO MENTION of this in their manual!! NO the answer is NOT "weld" it!! You are taking a moving part (even though SLIGHT i/o whn accel & decel) & now making it stationery! Something else along the line will fail! Output shaft/spline, gear box ENGINE..
We spoke to CSC & mentioned certified welder is needed their response " No it's no big deal any one who knows how to weld can do it trhey don't need 2b certified.." What a crock :censored: the metal itself has to be heat treated b4 welding so the weld will not fail & crack!
When we requested a NEW 12 driveline, they refused.
they won't replace the coupler they say "That is totally acceptable"
they have agreed to send a new (previous production) drive line, intermediate shaft, new "spring" (if you can call it a spring for looks basically neighbors was broken in 2..) new spacer collar. We are taking it to a drive line place & having them place two zirk fittings, 1 on spline output shaft on the engine, the other on the spline for the intermediate shaft, machined & ballanced.
We will also have them design sealed protective boots to keep the environmental hazrds out of the splines & the GREASE IN!
By the way once we get this done we are to "drive it 1k mi's THEN have it welded.if you choose not to have it welded it will void your warrunty.." (they gifted us with a gracious 1 more year...I guess that's how long they expect it (FIX) to hold
We all need to SUE CSC for the new engineered drive line!!
& YES the consumer affairs of Va. has been contacted...they should do what is right is all. (messed w/ the WRONG woman!)
 
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I believe it is the Honda end that is the problem. Apparantly this part of the shaft is made with a softer metal than the csc part. I just wonder how the new shaft is performing?

:gah::drama:
No it's NOT Honda's problem. It's CSC problem, even I know not to put a heavier metal into a softer one...the problem is the protection from the elements is now gone. No way to keep dust,w2o ect.. out & grease (Honda's grease $13.00 for 3 oz) inside to lube the spline! The whole shaft is exposed to the elements!! WIDE OPEN!! They need boots, like a cv joint boot on the gearbox end, (to protect the spline shaft.) Maybe a breather on both ends.. INSIDE shaft to protect the hole @ the joint (keep dust out) & keep grease in the shaft (creating a grease gallery) for the intermediate spline.
 
:mad::censored::gah:

Yes we heard & It's correct. No we haven't welded it solid. (yet)
If you don't they'll void the warrunty... see detailed complaint of mine on page two.

In short they REFUSE to send the re-engineered (2012) shafts to the rest of us w/ defective shafts. we're on our own pretty much. If the Bike "blows up" it's @ our expense...even with their defective drive shaft & lame "fix"...BANDAID.
 

Perminent FIX for their shaft issue...what about the maintenance of the other
parts..engine, grear box ect..Things NEED grease..:Shrug:

Does any one know WHO is responsible for the cost of removal of rear end & repair of engine or gear box AFTER this weld "FIX"? :AGGHH:
 
I believe it is the Honda end that is the problem. Apparantly this part of the shaft is made with a softer metal than the csc part. I just wonder how the new shaft is performing?


:( Actually it's CSC end...they put the heavier metal into Honda's shaft.
CSC was probably trying to save some $$ & also incorporate the two shafts by using Honda's shaft instead of their own design.
They have engineered one this year to solve this problem. (If they's only provide it to those of us who have the faulty ones...)

Perhaps if there were enough of us to call & "inquire"... :Shrug:
 
I believe it is the Honda end that is the problem. Apparantly this part of the shaft is made with a softer metal than the csc part. I just wonder how the new shaft is performing?

I am new to this forum. I have a '10 CSC Cobra XL conversion that has 5000 miles on it. I'm in Oregon and CSC only has one dealer here. I was told by CSC to contact them (4RFun in Junction City) They informed they had never welded one but had the instructions from CSC on how to do the welding. I wasn't comfortable with someone with no experience welding on my new trike. ON another forum I found a fix that Mtn. Trikes in S. Or N. Carolina has developed and I purchased one. It's a CV joint and adapter that replaced the rubber flex joint on the rear differential. I've installed it and removed the driveshaft and relubed the splined end of the driveshaft with Moly 60 (honda grease) and driven approx. 1000 miles so far and all is well.

This adapter is removeable and still allows you to remove the driveshaft for maintenance. I didn't like the fact that after welding the driveshaft you had to pull the rearend back or pull the engine to remove the driveshaft. The fix by Mtn TRikes, in my opinion, is far superior to the permanent welding fix by CSC. I'll keep you aprised on the performance of the CV joint. You'll like dealing with Stan & Nancy of Mtn Trikes. The machining of their CV joint and adapter is good and I think this is the way, I believe, CSC should have resolved the driveshaft problem. I'm going to purchase another driveshaft and machine out the front U joint and replace it with a greasable replaceable U joint but I'm going with the Mtn. Trike CV joint for the present.

Go to the Mtn TRike site and ask Stan or Nancy to forward you pictures of their fix. I think you'll agree? I've been a machinist for 40 yrs and an airplane mechanic with an A& P and certified welder. My feeling is welding the shaft could crystalized the components and cause an area for failure. Just my thoughts. I now have 10,000 miles on my driveshaft with the Mtn. Trikes coupler and everything is smooth and I've had no problems. I'm really glad I went with the Mtn Trike coupler.
 
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They have a new driveshaft now that completely eliminates the GL1800 shaft. I talked to a technician that did an install on a 2008 and a 2012 recently, my understanding is the issues are no more. I would be seeking a new shaft not a weld job if i had issues.
 
Re: CSC Drive Shafts Welding

Well just an update on my Mountain Trikes CV adapter for the CSC driveshaft.
I installed the Mtn Trikes adapter at 5000 miles on my '11 CSC Cobra XL kit on a '10 GL with no miles on it from the dealer in Arkansas. KenJ and I both agree that this is the proper type of fix rather than welding the shafts. I now have 10,000 miles on my Mtn. Trikes CV adapter and everything is just ducky. Smooth, and It seems that the trike shifts better as well with little or no slop in the driveline. When pulling the coupler (rubber) out when installing the Mtn trike CV joint my rubber coupler had 3 nice cracks around the bolt bushings in rubber.

CSC says not to worry? Well I worry about things like those cracks and wonder when the rubber will let go and leave me stranded. I would seriously consider the Mtn. Trikes fix rather than the weld. I'm really happy that I made the decision to go with it rather than the weld. I've asked Stan at Mtn Trikes to let me know what kind of maintenance these CV Joints require and could they be rebuilt? It seems it's a standard CV joint and regular checking and adding moly grease would be all that's required. These type of joints used in autos go for many miles without any service as well as handling much more weight than a trike. I'll keep everyone updated as to the performance of the fix but so far I'm really happy with the fix. Thanks for your time. Alan Sisters, OregonpepperThumbUp
 
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Well it's mid-September 2013 and I now have 10,000 miles on my Mtn. Trike coupler for the CSC Driveshaft. I did as KenJ did and installed it at 5000 miles and it's worked wonderfully. My fuel mileage increased to a steady 41 miles per gallon and I've had the driveshaft out three times since installing the coupler and all is well. I re-lube it with moly grease and grease the splines that go into the transmission and reinstall it. Everything has been as new as when I installed the coupler. You may contact me for any information on Mtn. Trikes coupler. I have no affiliation with them but still in my opinion this is a proper fix for the CSC driveshaft. My ride is a 2010 GL1800 audio-comfort with a 2011 CSC Cobra XL kit. I love my ride and the Mtn. Trike driveshaft fix solved all my worries about being stranded when rubber coupler went south. Get in touch with KenJ and I'm sure he'll agree. Best wishes from the World center for Outdoor sports Bend, Or. ThumbUp
 
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F Y I ...I did not read this drive shaft until today. Looks like I missed out on a lot of info.

My drive shaft went out this last August and CSC picked up the tab on everything.
I did not know about them taking care of their problems. I sent a big thank you note to them and to the installer. Now, all is good.

Ride safe

Pat
 
Does this "fix" CSC or the MT one, apply to 03 as well? Had less than 10k in 2011 on my 03 (bought in 09 with 4k on the clock) when the drive shaft went out. Cost me a pretty penny! But am told the replacement fm CSC had to be an off set Valkrye shaft. Anyone heard of this? Got abt 20k now but still at the back of my mind:confused: So was wondering if the Mt Trike fix would work for my 03...if & when I needed it. Thks
 
Does this "fix" CSC or the MT one, apply to 03 as well? Had less than 10k in 2011 on my 03 (bought in 09 with 4k on the clock) when the drive shaft went out. Cost me a pretty penny! But am told the replacement fm CSC had to be an off set Valkrye shaft. Anyone heard of this? Got abt 20k now but still at the back of my mind:confused: So was wondering if the Mt Trike fix would work for my 03...if & when I needed it. Thks

The problem with the CSC drive shafts started in 2007 when an additional gear box was added in front of the differential to have less angle on the universal joints in the drive shafts. If your TRIKE was done after June or July 2007 and has the extra gear box, it should have been covered.
 

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