Champion drive shaft problem

Mar 12, 2012
8
0
Conway AR
I have an 03 Goldwing with a Champion solid axle kit. (83k miles on bike) I am looking at having to replace the drive shaft for the 2nd time in 4 years. Anyone else seem to have problems with Champion?

The drive shaft is $750.00. So, with labor, will be looking at a little over a thousand bucks again.
 
So far I have been lucky. My 2010 Gl1800 with 33,000 miles on the trike kit have been good. I lube the u-joint every 3,000 miles. I can't believe how much they get for a drive shaft.
 
WE have had 3 gl1800 trikes all have had the champion straight axle kits. 2008 had 62,000 when traded no problems with drive shaft. 2010 had 64,000 when sold no problems. Both had rear u-joints that you could lube which I did every 3,000 miles. The 2012 trike with 58,000 miles we have now has the sealed rear u-joint so it has never been lubed,this gives me some concern. I called Champion they said they get more life out of the non lub joint. What goes out on your shaft is it the front joint or the rear joint?
 
It's only $450-500 for a CSC driveshaft. I had the old style but replaced with one from Mountain Trikes @$500. Mountain Trikes has a grease zerk. Now I have the rear gearbox seal leaking and I've been told by CSC it's teardown of almost entire rear end to replace. So this winter replacing with they're update kit that they started using in 2012. $1600-1800 for parts & labor.

40,000 miles on conversion. Driveshaft failure was due to previous owners lack of maintenance. Seal just result of normal wear or who knows.
 
WE have had 3 gl1800 trikes all have had the champion straight axle kits. 2008 had 62,000 when traded no problems with drive shaft. 2010 had 64,000 when sold no problems. Both had rear u-joints that you could lub which I did every 3,000 miles. The 2012 trike with 58,000 miles we have now has the sealed rear u-joint so it has never been lubed,this gives me some concern. I called Champion they said they get more life out of the non lub joint. What goes out on your shaft is it the front joint or the rear joint?

The rear. Of course you can't just buy the u-joint. Have to replace the whole thing
 
When I called Champion about the rear u-joint they told me that joint could be replaced with a u-joint from a 1989 Ford Ranger 4x4 6 cyl. pickup,witch can be bought at any part store. Hope this helps.
 
My thoughts

- what's failing on the other shafts ???

- when installing the shaft assembly, are the u-joints in time with one another ???

- are the zerk(s) regularly lubed ???

- is the shaft coming out of the back of the motor spinning true ???
 
Use better grease

Better grease is a choice. Most people are using an inferior to OEM product. And OEM is not the best available. I stopped failing U joints plowing snow with an older dodge power wagon by going to Hydrotex grease. Since then I use it in the most critical parts in machinery or boat stearn drives. Also splines or where the parts get wet.

Happy Day
 
Better grease is a choice. Most people are using an inferior to OEM product. And OEM is not the best available. I stopped failing U joints plowing snow with an older dodge power wagon by going to Hydrotex grease. Since then I use it in the most critical parts in machinery or boat stearn drives. Also splines or where the parts get wet.

Happy Day

You could be correct. However, more info should be added here. Many of the better greases come with strong warnings on their tube about not mixing them with other greases. Those warnings should be followed.

You are correct here too regarding splined shafts. But in the OP's case, he has a solid axle Champion drive shaft, and to my knowledge, they are one of the few "good" drive shafts. The main difference is in the spline area. Champion seals their splined area protecting it from outside elements, and also provides a grease fitting for it. The only other trike builder that does similar is Road Smith. All the other splined shafts designs are open to the elements and wear because of it.
 

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