Brake lights stuck on

[Lawless]

I was out riding today, and my Check Engine light came on and the red light for the security alarm came on at the same time.

When I got home, I checked the codes: P0572 (Brake light switch low) and B2223 (Rear brake switch shorted low).

Both rear brake lights are on steady. I disconnected the rear brake light switch wiring, and the brake lights are still on.

Sounds like a rear brake light switch but I would like to have some feedback from you folks before I start buying parts which may or may not solve the problem.

My bike is a 2015 Ultra Classic Tri Glide - FLHTCUTG

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[Zammy]

Happened to my '15 a couple of years back Larry, also no cruise control either. It was the the foot brake switch, replaced it under warranty and no problems after.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Your trouble code is a rear brake light switch problem, Harley had a lot of problems with them, I had a 15 and a 17 fail, both under warranty

I think they are on #5 of production updates to the switch last time I looked

Good luck and let us know how it goes

 

[rhino 2]

Happened to my '15 a couple of years back Larry, also no cruise control either. It was the the foot brake switch, replaced it under warranty and no problems after.

With my 2011 Triglide the rear brake switch/ cylinder Was replaced under the warranty and actually had to move it to a slightly different spot because the heat from the pipes were melting it..

 

[Lawless]

With my 2011 Triglide the rear brake switch/ cylinder Was replaced under the warranty and actually had to move it to a slightly different spot because the heat from the pipes were melting it..

Thanks guys for the replies. Guess I will order a switch and hopefully it will solve the problem

I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Lawless]

Your trouble code is a rear brake light switch problem, Harley had a lot of problems with them, I had a 15 and a 17 fail, both under warranty

I think they are on #5 of production updates to the switch last time I looked

Good luck and let us know how it goes

Will the rear brakes need to be bled after installing the new switch?

 

[Jack Klarich]

Will the rear brakes need to be bled after installing the new switch?

I prefer to bleed any time a hydraulic system is open, tho some have replaced switches without bleeding

You will know right away with your pedal response

 

[Lawless]

I prefer to bleed any time a hydraulic system is open, tho some have replaced switches without bleeding

You will know right away with your pedal response

One other question if you don't mind. I have been looking at the location of the switch trying to decide the easiest way to remove it.

They sure didn't make it easy to access.

Looks like I can remove the right-side footboard and the brake pedal to get at the switch, although it will still be a tight squeeze.

Do you have any recommendations as to how to remove the switch?

 

[Jack Klarich]

One other question if you don't mind. I have been looking at the location of the switch trying to decide the easiest way to remove it.

They sure didn't make it easy to access.

Looks like I can remove the right-side footboard and the brake pedal to get at the switch, although it will still be a tight squeeze.

Do you have any recommendations as to how to remove the switch?

That is how I did it on a freewheeler, yours should be similar

 

[headheaded]

One other question if you don't mind. I have been looking at the location of the switch trying to decide the easiest way to remove it.

They sure didn't make it easy to access.

Looks like I can remove the right-side footboard and the brake pedal to get at the switch, although it will still be a tight squeeze.

Do you have any recommendations as to how to remove the switch?

It's a bitch to get to. I removed my floor board mount from the frame and took the pedal nut off and pulled the entire works out far enough to remove the switch. It can be done, it's just tight.

 

[Lawless]

It's a bitch to get to. I removed my floor board mount from the frame and took the pedal nut off and pulled the entire works out far enough to remove the switch. It can be done, it's just tight.

Hardheaded & Jack,

Hardheaded I see you have the same year trike as I do. I really appreciate your reply but have one more question before I tackle this monster switch.

Jack suggested I bleed my brakes when I do the switch replacement, and if so, did you bleed all 4 wheels?

The manual says the brake system is linked, and there are bleeder valves on the front calipers for the front as well as the rear brake lines.

The rear calipers would be a real job to bleed without jacking the bike up.

Looks like I would not lose much brake fluid when replacing the switch, so I cannot understand why all 4 calipers would need to be bled.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Hardheaded & Jack,

Hardheaded I see you have the same year trike as I do. I really appreciate your reply but have one more question before I tackle this monster switch.

Jack suggested I bleed my brakes when I do the switch replacement, and if so, did you bleed all 4 wheels?

The manual says the brake system is linked, and there are bleeder valves on the front calipers for the front as well as the rear brake lines.

The rear calipers would be a real job to bleed without jacking the bike up.

Looks like I would not lose much brake fluid when replacing the switch, so I cannot understand why all 4 calipers would need to be bled.

If you end up with a soft (lower ) rear pedal, and or a spongy ( more travel ) front brake lever you will need to bled the front and rear brakes

The front brakes are linked thru the rear brakes, so when you apply the rear brakes the fronts are also activated via the center pistons of the front calipers

Any air in the entire system can and will be harder to compress giving the feel of brakes not working correctly, you will know right away if your system needs to be bled

Good Luck and check back with your results

 

[Lawless]

Thanks Jack, I will let you know how it turns out. I had to order the switch and it will not be here until last part of this week

 

[Lawless]

If you end up with a soft (lower ) rear pedal, and or a spongy ( more travel ) front brake lever you will need to bled the front and rear brakes

The front brakes are linked thru the rear brakes, so when you apply the rear brakes the fronts are also activated via the center pistons of the front calipers

Any air in the entire system can and will be harder to compress giving the feel of brakes not working correctly, you will know right away if your system needs to be bled

Good Luck and check back with your results

Hello Jack,

I called 2 different Harley dealers and was told they do not bleed the brakes when they replace the switch on a linked brake system.

So, I took a chance and replaced the switch and then took the bike out for a run. The brakes work great, and I now have lights that work as they should.

I lost about 2 ounces of brake fluid in the rear brake reservoir, and just topped it off after I was finished.

It is really tight to change the switch and hope it never happens again especially with my arthritic hands.

Thanks again for everyone's advice and help.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Hello Jack,

I called 2 different Harley dealers and was told they do not bleed the brakes when they replace the switch on a linked brake system.

So, I took a chance and replaced the switch and then took the bike out for a run. The brakes work great, and I now have lights that work as they should.

I lost about 2 ounces of brake fluid in the rear brake reservoir, and just topped it off after I was finished.

It is really tight to change the switch and hope it never happens again especially with my arthritic hands.

Thanks again for everyone's advice and help.

Good deal:clapping:Glad it worked out for you

 

[Mykneesbehurtin]

My neighbor has a 2020 trike with ABS, while on our Blueridge ride his rear brake lights came on and no cruise, told him it was the switch. So today he pulled the side cover and his switch is on the ABS unit. He pulled the switch and he said as soon as he broke it loose it had a loud psst of air. He tightened it back up, turned the bike on now brake lights are working fine and rear pedal feels normal. he has yet to flush the brakes or clutch, just seems strange it would have air in it because there are never any drips of any liquid under the bike

 

[Jack Klarich]

My neighbor has a 2020 trike with ABS, while on our Blueridge ride his rear brake lights came on and no cruise, told him it was the switch. So today he pulled the side cover and his switch is on the ABS unit. He pulled the switch and he said as soon as he broke it loose it had a loud psst of air. He tightened it back up, turned the bike on now brake lights are working fine and rear pedal feels normal. he has yet to flush the brakes or clutch, just seems strange it would have air in it because there are never any drips of any liquid under the bike

The ABS controller is a higher pressure unit, this may explain the psst of air pressure bleed off

I have seen this act up on some G M cars in the past

He should have the system bleed @ the dealership just to be sure

They use the scanalizer to activate the ABS to make sure the evacuate all the air and purge the old fluid