Better Derby Cover Bolts.

ctdair

150+ Posts
May 29, 2016
245
142
Oberlin, OH
Name
AL
Hated the factory torx. Torx depth seemed too shallow always had problems with bits spinning out. Finally stripped one and changed to allen head. Not happy with those either hole for bit too shallow. Stripped one torquing it down today. Using quality tools Mac and Snap On. Has any one used 12 point ARP bolts.


Milled ARP Derby Cover Bolts.

Click Above for product link
Thinking of ordering this off season, all fresh oil today for winter storage.
 
Factory torx are the worst, and allen heads didn’t hold up either, even with good tools. ARP 12-points should solve that worth a try if you're upgrading anyway.
 
Use a quality torx bit of the correct size (T27).

Keep the bit straight into the screw head, don`t put the torx socket directly on the ratchet, use an extension (about 10"), this will make it easy to keep the torx bit straight.
Did all the above. Maybe these bolts are just my nemesis. Wrenched for a lot of years.
 
The original derby cover and primary outer cover on the 07 Electra Glide I sold last year with 112000 miles still have the original Torx bolts. Using the correct quality bit and using the correct torque value is the key. Allen bolts are just as bad or worse if you use the wrong size tool.
 
The original derby cover and primary outer cover on the 07 Electra Glide I sold last year with 112000 miles still have the original Torx bolts. Using the correct quality bit and using the correct torque value is the key. Allen bolts are just as bad or worse if you use the wrong size tool.
Quality tools, Mac or Snap On.
Always Torque with Torque wrench.
 
I always torque to the high spec of torque. Perhaps I should try the low end of the range. I always use a hand impact driver ( the kind you strike with a hammer)to loosen. It also seems that the bolts are tighter than average to loosen. I’m considering anti seize as I think the dissimilar metals are binding.
 
I can loosen my derby cover fasteners with a T27 screwdriver. I hand tighten them only. I have checked many times behind myself and I’m always low on the torque value. I don’t use MAC to Snap On .. I like Thorsen bits , if I find them I buy a few at the time.
 
I use 316 SS socket heads and replace every bolt on the bike I can with them. I usually figure out what sizes I need for the bike and order 50 or 100 pcs at a time through McMaster Carr, Grainger, or in a pinch go to my local Ace Hardware store. They have a deeper pocket than the button heads and have 0 issues with them. Been doing them on all my bikes over the years. I don’t have any fancy tools, just Craftsman. Just don’t ever use a stainless nut on a stainless bolt without antiseize on the threads or they will gall and break.
 
Ordered these and a week later received notice order cancelled no stock. Website showed in stock available to ship. Used contact form on website to question the status. Few days no reply. Now the website is closed. My goodness this is 2 websites this week closed after an order or attempt to order. Ordered from a eBay seller and scheduled for delivery tomorrow.

Alloyboltz is the seller if anyone interested.
 
Use a quality torx bit of the correct size (T27).

Keep the bit straight into the screw head, don`t put the torx socket directly on the ratchet, use an extension (about 10"), this will make it easy to keep the torx bit straight.
This is the right way to do it a Dan SC has explained. Never have had a problem. I use a srew gun with rattler to take OEM Screws out
 
The stock T27 torx bolts are just fine with the correct gasket. Yall over thinking this crap.
Gasket/O-ring has no bearing on the screws/bolts. Torx and Allen in this case are just my nemesis for some reason. A standard head allen would not be as apt to slip as the shallow button heads as others have pointed out. Polished ARP 12 point bolts are what I’m going with. Busy schedule and Holidays coming but I’ll post pics when finally installed.
 
Gasket/O-ring has no bearing on the screws/bolts. Torx and Allen in this case are just my nemesis for some reason. A standard head allen would not be as apt to slip as the shallow button heads as others have pointed out. Polished ARP 12 point bolts are what I’m going with. Busy schedule and Holidays coming but I’ll post pics when finally installed.
I can't wait to see it. I have some for mine as well but haven't done a fluid change to replace them yet.
 
Gasket/O-ring has no bearing on the screws/bolts. Torx and Allen in this case are just my nemesis for some reason. A standard head allen would not be as apt to slip as the shallow button heads as others have pointed out. Polished ARP 12 point bolts are what I’m going with. Busy schedule and Holidays coming but I’ll post pics when finally installed.
Your choice is fine, I just see these posts way too often here and on the HDforums . All I’m saying is there is nothing wrong with stock T27 if used and torqued properly. I’m sure the Polished 12 points will look great. Post pics when you get them on. Ride safe.
 
Your choice is fine, I just see these posts way too often here and on the HDforums . All I’m saying is there is nothing wrong with stock T27 if used and torqued properly. I’m sure the Polished 12 points will look great. Post pics when you get them on. Ride safe.
I agree 100% with @Notgrownup …. Many use the incorrect torx size and strip the heads, or they were overtightened previously.
Indeed the correct Torx size is: T27
(not T25 that many use accidentally)…
And the 5 bolts on the derby cover torque spec is: 84-108 in/lb for the ones who want to follow what’s in the service manuals. (Important: that’s INCH pounds…. Not foot pounds).

For the years I’ve owned Harley’s, I’ve never encountered a stripped derby cover bolt.

I personally did order a complete 12 point show-polished bolt kit from AlloyBoltz myself just because they do look great & that is just one of my winter upgrade/changes this year… not because I need them, but just because I wanted them. 👍🏻👍🏻
(The previous owner had all the chrome covers that utilizes silicone to hold them on, and I wanted to get rid of those chrome caps and replace them with those 12 point bolts instead.

Pic from my 2014 Service manual,… I believe these specs have been the same through many years,…. so my disclaimer is:
Please double check the year that anyone has to verify the recommended torque specifications if they choose to use an inch pound torque wrench.

IMG_4101.jpeg
 
Good point. T27 is an odd size that doesn’t come in most torx bit kits and they are hard to find sold individually in box stores.

I finally found them at Runnings Farm Supply Store. Menards, Lowe’s, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, TSC, and Farm & Fleet didn’t have them in my area.

It was funny, Runnings had a yellow sticky note on the tag on the shelf next to the T27 that said “Harley” with an arrow pointing to them! They also had a yellow tag next to the incredibly hard to find T70 that said “Harley Compensator Bolt”. Had to chuckle, the owner of Runnings must own and work on Harley’s.

I liked the T27’s Runnings had as they fit on a 1/4” square drive ratchet rather than being a 1/4” hex bit like found in most kits. The T70 was a 1/2” square drive.

If I’m remembering, was thinking T27 was also used on the clutch & brake clamp screws on the handlebars and T25 on the handlebar switch housings?
 
I ordered what the supplier said would fit. Didn’t measure but did compare to Allen’s being removed. Those were supposed to be 5/8
 

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