A trike that caught fire

[GoldWingrGreg]

Here's one that caught fire while on a trip. It was towed over 300 miles to get here. Fortunately, they were able to pull over to put the fire out. The drive shaft started rubbing in its swing arm creating heat which melted the reservoir tank. They are very lucky, directly above the small fire is the fuel tank.

On some trikes, removing the drive shaft for a proper u-joint inspection is not part of the manufactures maintenance schedule. Although a visual inspection with the shaft still in the trike was done a few thousand miles ago, a failing front u-joint was not detected.

The take-away ... trikes need to have their drive shafts pulled every 24k to have the shaft and u-joints inspected as PM. Unfortunately on this trike, doing so would cost about $200+ labor.

 

[trike lady]

And looking at the pic it doesn't look like it has seen any grease and maintenance in quite some time. :shok:

 

[Sidecarbill]

Had to be ignoring some noise and vibration for a while.

 

[Bronson512]

Greg, you know we’ve had the drive shaft discussion before. Just recently because my manual said to inspect drive shaft at 24,000 mi. I decided to take a look at mine. I took the u-bolts off the rear and lowered the rear joint which took some doing in itself but I was unable to slide the front slip joint off the engine output shaft due to a yoke interference issue. Got any thoughts or opinions?

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

And looking at the pic it doesn't look like it has seen any grease and maintenance in quite some time. :shok:

Actually the rear u-joint and slip-joint were regularly greased though out its life. There is no zerk on the front joint. It was in for an inspection of the shaft 8,000 miles ago, but they only wanted a visual without removing the shaft. Basically, little can be inspected without its removal ... the front u-joint is not even visible.

Had to be ignoring some noise and vibration for a while.

About 5 mths ago, they did have a complaint of a noise present when first starting for 2-3 seconds. No noise could be heard or duplicated when they brought it in.

Greg, you know we’ve had the drive shaft discussion before. Just recently because my manual said to inspect drive shaft at 24,000 mi. I decided to take a look at mine. I took the u-bolts off the rear and lowered the rear joint which took some doing in itself but I was unable to slide the front slip joint off the engine output shaft due to a yoke interference issue. Got any thoughts or opinions?

What brand ???

Independent of solid axle ???

On some, the final drive has to be unmounted to be able to get the drive shaft out. If so, it is a labor intensive inspection that could easily be for nothing other then peace of mind.

 

[tfdeputydawg]

Actually the rear u-joint and slip-joint were regularly greased though out its life. There is no zerk on the front joint. It was in for an inspection of the shaft 8,000 miles ago, but they only wanted a visual without removing the shaft. Basically, little can be inspected without its removal ... the front u-joint is not even visible.

Didn't you insist on proper inspection???About 5 mths ago, they did have a complaint of a noise present when first starting for 2-3 seconds. No noise could be heard or duplicated when they brought it in.

Again, would have been a great time to insist on proper inspection!On some, the final drive has to be unmounted to be able to get the drive shaft out. If so, it is a labor intensive inspection that could easily be for nothing other then peace of mind.

Agree, on my Hannigan the whole rear end must be lowered to give clearance for the drive shaft to be pulled.

It seems to me if the bike manufacturer won't step up and put U-joints with grease jerks in, then the trike buiders should insist on putting them in when building the trikes!!!!!!!

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

It seems to me if the bike manufacturer won't step up and put U-joints with grease jerks in, then the trike buiders should insist on putting them in when building the trikes!!!!!!!

Correct ... however, there is very little distance between the output shaft and the frame. So a small u-joint is required. If there was a zerk on the inside of the u-joint, a grease gun would never fit in there unless removed. If removed, it might not even fit then. If one was installed at the end of a cap, it would get broken off from hitting the frame.

Actually, the shaft shown is one of the better ones made. It has a slightly larger u-joint then OEM, a large one on the rear, and it has a sealed, splined coupler. It's also comes balanced. Many have a splined coupler that is not sealed, thus lots of failure because the splines are exposed to the elements. Many also use a GL1500 front coupler with a similar u-joint, possibly the same, as an OEM GL1800 u-joint.

Here's what we really need. A Honda made GL1800 trike.

 

[frostbite51]

I'm surprised that with the popularity of the Triglide there aren't more factory trikes. Seems like a no brainer to me...

 

[Bronson512]

What brand ???

CSC

Independent of solid axle ???

It’s a 2012 Viper so I assume it independent suspension.

On some, the final drive has to be unmounted to be able to get the drive shaft out. If so, it is a labor intensive inspection that could easily be for nothing other then peace of mind.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

CSC

It’s a 2012 Viper so I assume it independent suspension.

Not sure what type for drive shaft you have. CSC has gone through a few designs. If yours is black, it is probably a solid shaft, and with 2 u-joint and no slip joint. If there is no slip joint in the middle, that means that it cannot be compressed to remove it. To remove it, the final drive needs loosened and moved rearward to allow access for the shaft to come out. It does not take much time to do that.

 

[Bronson512]

Not sure what type for drive shaft you have. CSC has gone through a few designs. If yours is black, it is probably a solid shaft, and with 2 u-joint and no slip joint. If there is no slip joint in the middle, that means that it cannot be compressed to remove it. To remove it, the final drive needs loosened and moved rearward to allow access for the shaft to come out. It does not take much time to do that.

I think you’re correct about the no slip joint but I was able to remove the rear portion from the differential with very little problems. I observed the bolts (I think 4) in the bottom plate that would have allowed the differential & possibly the side shafts to move rearward. I was concerned of getting things out of adjustment so I bolted things back up.

When removing the pan bolts mentioned above would it be suitable to make a mark where ever they are and just go back to the same spot or are their some guide marks already in place put their by the manufacture for this procedure? Maybe a side to side measurement point?

Hope this make sense as I’m in my deer blind today for Muzzle-loader season. Beautiful morning but no deer moving.

Thanks in Advance for all you help!

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

I think you’re correct about the no slip joint but I was able to remove the rear portion from the differential with very little problems. I observed the bolts (I think 4) in the bottom plate that would have allowed the differential & possibly the side shafts to move rearward. I was concerned of getting things out of adjustment so I bolted things back up.

When removing the pan bolts mentioned above would it be suitable to make a mark where ever they are and just go back to the same spot or are their some guide marks already in place put their by the manufacture for this procedure? Maybe a side to side measurement point?

Hope this make sense as I’m in my deer blind today for Muzzle-loader season. Beautiful morning but no deer moving.

Thanks in Advance for all you help!

Is your shaft black or gray ???

Yes ... you can take a Sharpie and mark the 4 bolt positions that secure the final drive's position. However, you will probably find that all 4 are in their most forward positions in their slot holes.

Be sure to unbolt the drive shaft first. I also index the position of the shaft's yoke to the final drives yoke too.

 

[Bronson512]

Is your shaft black or gray ???

Im pretty sure it’s Black, isn’t that odd fool around with something most of a day and can’t remember for sure?

 

[stacebg]

Here's one that caught fire while on a trip. It was towed over 300 miles to get here. Fortunately, they were able to pull over to put the fire out. The drive shaft started rubbing in its swing arm creating heat which melted the reservoir tank. They are very lucky, directly above the small fire is the fuel tank.

On some trikes, removing the drive shaft for a proper u-joint inspection is not part of the manufactures maintenance schedule. Although a visual inspection with the shaft still in the trike was done a few thousand miles ago, a failing front u-joint was not detected.

The take-away ... trikes need to have their drive shafts pulled every 24k to have the shaft and u-joints inspected as PM. Unfortunately on this trike, doing so would cost about $200+ labor.

View attachment 50448View attachment 50449

visual inspection //// not the same as grab the shaft to see if there is any movement ..... inspectors bad... u joint dint get this bad in just a few miles as mentioned the absolutely had to be some bad vibration ..... operators bad

 

[bayoudave]

Had the shaft on mine go out.

2002 with a Motor Trike Kit. Started noticing strange noise. After several stops looking for the cause I finally took the side cover off and looked and saw the front U-joint was bad. Parked the bike and rode with a friend and got a truck and trailer and hauled it in to the shop for a new shaft. The old shaft didn't have grease serts but the new shaft does. The shaft is a bit shorter and the yoke is a bit longer giving the room to get the grease gun on both U-joints without removing the shaft. Wish I knew where the new shaft came from. My mechanic ordered it and installed it and soon after was killed in a motorcycle wreck. I don't have a clue where he got the new shaft.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

The shaft is a bit shorter and the yoke is a bit longer giving the room to get the grease gun on both U-joints without removing the shaft. Wish I knew where the new shaft came from. My mechanic ordered it and installed it and soon after was killed in a motorcycle wreck. I don't have a clue where he got the new shaft.

Did you remove one that was blue and install one that was green ???

 

[mhgoldwing]

I suggest the novel approach of using automotive ujoints with sealed bearings that require no service; just like your car. Oh wait, Roadsmith put those on my trike.