2014 rear brakes

[14triglide]

Hello everyone,

Looking for detailed, step by step instructions on removal and replacing rear brakes and rotors on 2014 triglide as I am doing the job myself. All help appreciated. Also, does the black coating on J&P rotors have to be removed?

Thanks everyone

 

[Notgrownup]

Do not apply the parking brake, ckock the front wheel, Jack the bike, remove the wheel, I think you will need 10mm 12 point socket. Undo the bolts, remove the caliper, clean around the Piston with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Spray brake cleaner liberally, let dry. Make sure you lubricate the touch points with a disk brake lube. I like to use disk brake quiet on the back of the pads. Lubricant on the caliper pins, re install making sure the clips are installed and lubricated. Torque the pins to no more than 30 lbs/ sq in. Re install the wheel. Repeat on the other side. Clean the pad surface and rotor with brake cleaner. Also make sure there is no debris on the rotor or the mount area.

I would try to find a trike service manual supplement… it comes very handy.

Damn, I just realized where you are.. lol

 

[rhino 2]

Hello everyone,

Looking for detailed, step by step instructions on removal and replacing rear brakes and rotors on 2014 triglide as I am doing the job myself. All help appreciated. Also, does the black coating on J&P rotors have to be removed?

Thanks everyone

Yes‘Remove the black coating…If you don’t remove it’ The coating will cake up in the pads and then the first few stops you will have limited stopping power….(Brake cleaner and a rag will remove it)…

 

[Jack Klarich]

Yes‘Remove the black coating…If you don’t remove it’ The coating will cake up in the pads and then the first few stops you will have limited stopping power….(Brake cleaner and a rag will remove it)…

Nope, not true this is misinformation at best

It is an anti rust agent and will slowly disappear with several brake cycles

 

[rhino 2]

Nope, not true this is misinformation at best

It is an anti rust agent and will slowly disappear with several brake cycles

I know it’s an anti-rust agent also I know it will diminish your breaking ability till it is dissipated/disappears…… !

 

[Jack Klarich]

I know it’s an anti-rust agent also I know it will diminish your breaking ability till it is dissipated/disappears…… !

Nope, over the thousands of axles I have done including high end imports NEVER a problem, I wash them off from out of the box with hot soapy water, blow them dry with a dry ( water trap filtered) air line and install them

I have seen guys ruin the machined finish on a rotor by sanding this coating off

 

[rhino 2]

Nope, over the thousands of axles I have done including high end imports NEVER a problem, I wash them off from out of the box with hot soapy water, blow them dry with a dry ( water trap filtered) air line and install them

I have seen guys ruin the machined finish on a rotor by sanding this coating off

Who said anything about sanding????.. I said break cleaner and a rag…(Nowhere did I mention sanding nor would I ever do ) Even when I have changed rotors that did not have that coating I would use brake cleaner just to remove any grease/oils from handing them with mechanics hands…

 

[Jack Klarich]

Who said anything about sanding????.. I said break cleaner and a rag…(Nowhere did I mention sanding nor would I ever do ) Even when I have changed rotors that did not have that coating I would use brake cleaner just to remove any grease/oils from handing them with mechanics hands…

I never said you said sanding, I am telling you what I learned and what I know to be true

All brake cleaners are NOT created equal, If I do use it I always wash down the brake cleaned rotors with hot soapy water

It is what I know works for sure and is how I taught my brake classes

I use the same cleaning process for wheel bearings BUT ( never let the bearings spin ) when blowing them dry, very bad JUJU

 

[14triglide]

Do not apply the parking brake, ckock the front wheel, Jack the bike, remove the wheel, I think you will need 10mm 12 point socket. Undo the bolts, remove the caliper, clean around the Piston with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Spray brake cleaner liberally, let dry. Make sure you lubricate the touch points with a disk brake lube. I like to use disk brake quiet on the back of the pads. Lubricant on the caliper pins, re install making sure the clips are installed and lubricated. Torque the pins to no more than 30 lbs/ sq in. Re install the wheel. Repeat on the other side. Clean the pad surface and rotor with brake cleaner. Also make sure there is no debris on the rotor or the mount area.

I would try to find a trike service manual supplement… it comes very handy.

Damn, I just realized where you are.. lol

Notgrownup, Yep just down the road. What are you using for disc brake lube? 30 ft/lbs or 30 in/lbs on caliper pins?

 

[14triglide]

Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?

 

[Rogue1]

Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?

Once you get the pads off you will be able to tell if the puck needs to be pushed or screwed in. There will be two holes in the puck to screw it in. My 19 Tri Glide needs to be screwed in, I'm not sure about yours . I just use a pair of needle nose pliers and it works well.

 

[Notgrownup]

Does the caliper piston have to be pushed or screwed back in? Will the E-brake have to be readjusted?

If you undo the parking brake adjustment it will loosen it a bit. I use permatex in a tube I think. I just picked it up at Advance Auto. It is in a light purple tube for the lube.The discbrake quiet is red tube

Tbere are probably some good YouTube videos. I got the manuals

 

[14triglide]

I have K&W disc brake quiet spray and High temp copper anti-seize.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I have K&W disc brake quiet spray and High temp copper anti-seize.

A light coat of the copper anti seize will work on the back of the brake pads, caliper grease can be used on the slide pins, this can be found for under 2 bucks @ most Auto parts stores

 

[14triglide]

If you undo the parking brake adjustment it will loosen it a bit. I use permatex in a tube I think. I just picked it up at Advance Auto. It is in a light purple tube for the lube.The discbrake quiet is red tube

Tbere are probably some good YouTube videos. I got the manuals

Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

Thanks

 

[rhino 2]

Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

Thanks

With my 2011 triglide I just pushed them back in…I also opened up the brake reservoir cap to relieve some pressure when pushing the pucks back in..?..(Packed rags around the reservoir brake fluid eats paint)

 

[Jack Klarich]

Notgrownup: do the rear caliper pistons screw in or push in? If they screw in does one side screw in clockwise and one counter clockwise?

Thanks

They will both screw in clockwise

I like to clean the pistons before setting them back in the caliper bores, you can use brake clean around the dust boot before, this will keep dust and any brake residue from getting into the calipers

I do not like to screw in or push( depending on your set up), I open the bleeder screws and as you move the piston in the old fluid gets removed instead of back to the master cylinder

Clean off the top of the master cylinder, use a syringe or a clean cloth rag to remove as much of the old fluid as you can, wipe out the inside of the master cylinder before refilling

Slowly pump the pedal( no more than 1/2 the stroke) crack open the bleeders and watch for air bubbles, repeat until you see no more bubbles

Check your fluid level, confirm a good pedal, go for a ride, avoid quick stops for a few miles as the pads bed in

Bobs post #16 is a very good idea to keep the brake fluid from eating any painted surfaces

Good Luck

 

[Notgrownup]

I didnt have to push mine in, the parking brake has something to do with it as well. If it’s loose the pads will install easier

 

[Rogue1]

The pads I replaced were worn pretty good. The new pads were so much thicker than the old pads they wouldn't fit in the same space the old pads were in. I had no choice but to screw the pucks in.

 

[14triglide]

Anyone know what the torque specs for caliper bracket bolts and caliper pin/slider bolts?

Rotors and pads look fine. Going to clean, lube and reassemble. Plan to use blue thread locker on bolts.

 

[14triglide]

Can you get the stainless steel pieces that the pads slide on separate? Some of the "spring wings" are missing.

Also as info my 2014 rear caliper pistons are the push in kind.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Can you get the stainless steel pieces that the pads slide on separate? Some of the "spring wings" are missing.

Also as info my 2014 rear caliper pistons are the push in kind.

Did the pads not come with new clips?

I cleaned up the old ones on my 15 FLRT and used them over, the EBC pads I got did not come with the new clips

Good to see your pistons do not screw in, that makes the job easier

 

[Jack Klarich]

Here is the HD part number

[FONT=&quot]41300046[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]SPRING PAD[/FONT]

 

[14triglide]

Did the pads not come with new clips?

I cleaned up the old ones on my 15 FLRT and used them over, the EBC pads I got did not come with the new clips

Good to see your pistons do not screw in, that makes the job easier

New pads did, but old pads and rotors are fine. Harley can order new spring pads @ $22 a piece. At that price I can buy a whole brake kit for $77.

 

[14triglide]

As info: 35 ft/lbs on caliper bracket bolts and 32 ft/lbs on caliper pin/slider bolts.

 

[14triglide]

Would like to thank everyone for your help and knowledge concerning my rear brakes.