2012 Sprocket is loose and rubbing on differential cast housing

[milemaker]

2012 Sprocket is loose and rubbing on differential cast housing

Hi, My name is Sam.

My triglide started making a noise while riding the other day so I put it on the lift to check it out. The left side of the drive belt sprocket is rubbing the cast rear end housing. The drive belt sprocket has a gap between the reverse motor tooth sprocket and the rubber belt sprocket. When I gently pry both sprockets apart the rubber belt sprocket moves back and forth. It has rubbed against the cast housing on the one side and the bolts on the other side and cut into the metal on the belt sprocket.

We have pulled the axles out and tried to push the differential assembly forward but its to tight to get the assembly out. I still don't know what has let go inside. I need to get the differential assembly removed to pull it apart. Should I pull the 4 bolts on both sides of the swingarm assembly to move it all back about an inch to try to get the diff out forward? Will the amount that it will move be enough to get it out?

This bike has never been apart except for regular maintenance and I sure don't know why this is now a problem.

It has about 30K miles on her and has been well taken care of.

I am fixing the parking brake lever adjustment as it had not worked correctly for some time now.

I am also going to fix the reverse motor as it quit working about 6 months ago also.

Its time to fix all the things that need repair now that I have the back end all apart.

Any help someone might be able to give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sam

 

[trikeman]

Sorry I can’t help. I ride a Goldwing. Good luck with your HD:wave4:

 

[rhino 2]

If i had to venture a guess , Im thinking the Isolator [Rubbers] gave up causing the problem...:Shrug:..

 

[DK Custom Products]

As rhino said, it could be the isolators. Below is a photo. The bottom row of components are all in the housing.

The clip (#16) is a known failure point. The bearings are pressed in (#14) and could have shifted.

As you can see there are a limited number of parts in there, so should be fairly easy to track down.

We have seen it before, where the axle bearing retainer plates bowed too much, allowing the axles to move too much on the spline end, resulting in the bearings shifting/clip failing. See photos of the ABRP's at this LINK.

Sounds like you are taking the right steps to get it tracked down!

Kevin

 

[milemaker]

Well, its time for an update and a new question.

After ordering a long list of parts to repair my trike and the above listed issues, I just got word that the last part I need is finally on the way. The new differential, drive pully, isolators, circlip, brake kit and various bearings will all be new and assembled soon. I am looking forward to getting it back together and off the lift.

Now for the question.

I do not have the trike section manual for this 2012 Tri Glide.

I really could use the torque values for the items listed above.

I just need the table with the torque values.

If there is anyone who could post the values or somehow send them to me, I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks for any help you could give me with this request.

Sam

 

[prariepilot]

Well, its time for an update and a new question.After ordering a long list of parts to repair my trike and the above listed issues, I just got word that the last part I need is finally on the way. The new differential, drive pully, isolators, circlip, brake kit and various bearings will all be new and assembled soon. I am looking forward to getting it back together and off the lift.

Now for the question.

I do not have the trike section manual for this 2012 Tri Glide.

I really could use the torque values for the items listed above.

I just need the table with the torque values.

If there is anyone who could post the values or somehow send them to me, I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks for any help you could give me with this request.

Sam

Sam,

I have the Trike section manual you are looking for. The 2012 and 2013 (mine) are the same. To find parts on Ronnie's H-D site, you get the 2012 parts list when you request the 2013, so it seems there's no difference.

Being that I'm only 15 miles north of you in N Ridgeville, I could put the entire manual on a usb stick and get it to you if you want the entire manual. Otherwise, the torque values cover six pages, so I'd need an email address to send them to. Your choice.

 

[milemaker]

Robert,

That would be great. I am on 83 right down the road from you. If you know where Litchfield Circle is and ever get down this way, I would buy you lunch at the Hungry Bear Restaurant. It would be great to get the information on a stick if you could do that. I'm not sure about the messaging system here but if there is a way to message private feel free. Or, just let me know where to meet you and what time is good for you. Thanks for letting me know you would do this.

Sam

 

[prariepilot]

Robert,

That would be great. I am on 83 right down the road from you. If you know where Litchfield Circle is and ever get down this way, I would buy you lunch at the Hungry Bear Restaurant. It would be great to get the information on a stick if you could do that. I'm not sure about the messaging system here but if there is a way to message private feel free. Or, just let me know where to meet you and what time is good for you. Thanks for letting me know you would do this.

Sam

Sam, I have the complete 2013 Service Manual and Supplements copied onto a USB stick. I could come down tomorrow (11th), then not again until the 13th - Dr. and Dentist appointments on Tuesday (12th). Shoot me an email at prariepilot@atlanticbb.net. We'll carry this thread off TT so as not to bore the rest of the members!

Bob

 

[milemaker]

Another update is in order. I received all the parts and got the torque information from Bob above. (Thanks again Bob). I mounted the new differential into the new pully and assembled the new rubber isolators into the basket.

We then pressed the outer bearings onto the differential. We got the assembly back into the differential housing and got the drive belt lined up. Put on the end caps and adjusted the belt tension. After getting everything else bolted on, exhaust, trailer hitch, reverse motor mount, axles, rotors, new brake pads etc.

we took the reverse motor apart and found the brushes corroded and rusted inside. Cleaned up the brush plate and got the brushes sliding nicely and reassembled the reverse motor. We put that in this morning and tried it out. It drove very nice and the parking brake works well again. The reverse motor works well again and the trike backs up very nicely now that the brushes are clean and sliding properly.

All in all it was a big job. It was worth doing it ourselves and i'm sure I saved a bunch of money by doing it here in the garage.

Thanks, Sam