Raked Forks

[Trikerbri]

Have been in discussion with one of the top trike builders in the UK and the company they recommend for Raked Yokes, both expressed caution regarding clearance between the forks and fairing when modified. I measured with the wheel facing forward from the fork guard to the fairing as being about 50mm, with the wheel on full lock it is less than half that. Removing the fork guard only adds about 10mm extra. Knowing some have had this done to their 1500 trike can anyone advise what the solution was. I was thinking of about 6 degrees rake.

 

[BIG DENNY]

that is why you have a hole saw

 

[Trikerbri]

that is why you have a hole saw

I did look at cutting a recess in the fairing but the support frame is right on the edge and cutting the fairing includes the frame so how did you do yours

 

[cycle7447]

Hummm I had a rake on my 1500 Wing - don't recall any cutting at all was needed.

Hopefully, someone else with A Wing will come back and help.

 

[Papa Zook]

Not needed.

 

[Papa Zook]

The process of changing out the stock, factory Honda triple trees for a set of raked triple trees has been going on for as long as trike conversions have been available. So long as the raked trees are from a known, reputable source, no modifications to your trike are required.

 

[Trikerbri]

The process of changing out the stock, factory Honda triple trees for a set of raked triple trees has been going on for as long as trike conversions have been available. So long as the raked trees are from a known, reputable source, no modifications to your trike are required.

Thanks for responses, the triple trees would be supplied by a top rated UK company, I was only concerned by the lack of clearance on full lock with the standard set up and logically assumed that a 'more forward' set might cause a problem but feel reassured now.

 

[pwhoever]

Thanks for responses, the triple trees would be supplied by a top rated UK company, I was only concerned by the lack of clearance on full lock with the standard set up and logically assumed that a 'more forward' set might cause a problem but feel reassured now.

It appears that you have the standard front end and it hasn't been converted to the wider leading link forks, am I correct? I admit to having limited knowledge on the leading link but know that it's definitely wider. And I don't know if those come raked. But if not, I could see adding a rake kit to that might be an issue.

 

[Trikerbri]

It appears that you have the standard front end and it hasn't been converted to the wider leading link forks, am I correct? I admit to having limited knowledge on the leading link but know that it's definitely wider. And I don't know if those come raked. But if not, I could see adding a rake kit to that might be an issue.

I have standard forks on the trike but like everything on 'Wings' everything's a tight fit. To be fair it was designed as a bike not a trike so full lock on forks was never going to be an issue. Stability is not the issue with it, I can ride it one handed on a straight road, but heavy steering despite upgraded fork springs fitted by previous owner to overcome it due to the dead weight of the engine needs attention.

 

[Papa Zook]

I have standard forks on the trike but like everything on 'Wings' everything's a tight fit. To be fair it was designed as a bike not a trike so full lock on forks was never going to be an issue.

Stability is not the issue with it, I can ride it one handed on a straight road, but heavy steering despite upgraded fork springs fitted by previous owner to overcome it due to the dead weight of the engine needs attention.

Odd as it my seem, the heavy steering actually has very little to do with engine weight or even the total weight of the entire trike. It has more to do with the forks having too much trail which greatly impedes the ability to easily steer it. Too much trail is corrected by adding more rake angle (+4,+5,+6,etc). More rake = less trail = less effort to steer.

As a two wheeler, which are what all trike conversions start life as, the trail is perfect because it was designed and engineered by Honda/Harley/Indian to LEAN through turns, as all two wheeled motorcycles do, but plant that same machine on three wheels and it becomes an entirely different machine so far as negotiating curves goes. Achieving the proper rake and trail is the solution to heavy steering on any three wheeled vehicle.

For example, there are several threads on the Boss Hoss V8 Trike Forums (Other Trikes Section) discussing the subject. Imagine how heavy a big block Chevy V8 engine and automatic transmission is? Below is one of several threads I found as a reference to rake and trail, this one was posted by a Clint44.

Clint44:
"The 2000-2006 Boss Hoss trikes come stock with +3deg raked trees were tough to steer and had head shake. The 2007-later trikes have +5deg trees which made the steering nicer and very little if any head shake. I installed a pair of Kewl Metal +15deg raked trees on our 2006 Boss Hoss trike and though expensive, it made a huge difference in steering effort and looked great too, IMO."

 

[Marc H]

Here is a pic of mine.I don't have a better angle of that area but you can zoom in and get an idea.I didn't have a problem while riding but the protectors would hit if I hit a dip with the wheel turned. It had Progressive springs at the time. i switched to a standard spring, which raised the front up some and never had a problem. You could also remove the protector if that was all that was bothering you.

 

[Trikerbri]

Odd as it my seem, the heavy steering actually has very little to do with engine weight or even the total weight of the entire trike. It has more to do with the forks having too much trail which greatly impeads the ability to easily steer it.

As a two wheeler, which are what all trike conversions start life as, the trail is perfect because it was designed and engineered by Honda to LEAN through turns, as all two wheeled motorcycles do, but plant that same machine on three wheels and it becomes an entirely different machine so far as negotiating curves goes. Achieving the proper rake and trail is the solution to heavy steering on any three wheeled vehicle.

For example there are several threads on the Boss Hoss V8 Trike Forums (Other Trikes Section) discussing the subject. Imagine how heavy a big block Chevy V8 engine and automatic transmission is? Below is one of several threads I found as a reference to rake and trail, this one was posted by a Clint44.

Clint44:
The 2000-2006 Boss Hoss trikes come stock with +3deg raked trees were tough to steer and had head shake. The 2007-later trikes have +5deg trees which made the steering nicer and very little if any head shake. I installed a pair of Kewl Metal +15deg raked trees on our 2006 Boss Hoss trike and though expensive,it made a huge difference in steering effort and looked great too,IMO.

Much clearer in my mind now, I have been building/modifying/customising motorbikes for 40 yrs but a relative novice when it comes to trikes but thanks to this forum and it's members I am getting a far better understanding. From the centre of the rear axle to centre of front wheel is around 80" and I'm thinking maybe 6 degrees rake.

 

[Trikerbri]

Here is a pic of mine.I don't have a better angle of that area but you can zoom in and get an idea.I didn't have a problem while riding but the protectors would hit if I hit a dip with the wheel turned. It had Progressive springs at the time. i switched to a standard spring which raised the front up some and never had a problem.You could also remove the protector if that was all that was bothering you.
View attachment 130198

Nice looking trike Marc, the protectors would have to go for clearance in my mind, maybe a fork brace also an option? Much to consider.

 

[Marc H]

Nice looking trike Marc, the protectors would have to go for clearance in my mind, maybe a fork brace also an option? Much to consider.

Mine had a fork brace on it and it sits flat with nothing sticking up. The only time I noticed the protector hitting was parking lot situations. Turned very sharp and on uneven ground. Remember it will traveling the same angle as the forks not straight up and down so it will clear unless your turned sharp.

 

[Marc H]

I ran without my protector and the brake covers to be different and to stop the hitting.

 

[Papa Zook]

Here is a pic of mine. I don't have a better angle of that area but you can zoom in and get an idea. I didn't have a problem while riding but the protectors would hit if I hit a dip with the wheel turned. It had Progressive springs at the time. i switched to a standard spring, which raised the front up some and never had a problem. You could also remove the protector if that was all that was bothering you.

With the proper fork springs, so long as they are not weak or partially collapsed it should not be necessary to remove the fork tube protector shields. Marc noted that on his 6 degree rakes GL1500 when he replaced his old fork springs with new Honda stock springs he never experienced the bottoming out. Over time fork springs can start to collapse especially after the bike has been converted.

I would suggest that if you have not already done so, replace the fork springs with new stock Honda springs and leave the protectors in place as they keep bug gut splatter off the lower portion of the fork tubes which preserves your fork seals. Dried bug guts are like sandpaper and will ruin your fork seals.

 

[Panel Man]

My Goldwing trike has EML leading link forks no other mod

 

[Trikerbri]

With the proper fork springs, so long as they are not weak or partially collapsed it should not be necessary to remove the fork tube protector shields. Marc noted that on his 6 degree rakes GL1500 when he replaced his old fork springs with new Honda stock springs he never experienced the bottoming out. Over time fork springs can start to collapse especially after the bike has been converted.

I would suggest that if you have not already done so, replace the fork springs with new stock Honda springs and leave the protectors in place as they keep bug gut splatter off the lower portion of the fork tubes which preserves your fork seals. Dried bug guts are like sandpaper.

Noted, thanks.