I have a 2006 Harley Ultra Classic with a CSC Daytona trike kit on it. I noticed recently when checking things over, a very slight movement movement when I grab the top and bottom of the rear wheel and try to wobble the wheel. It isn't the wheel to that's moving, it's the hub. I tightened the nut on the shaft and I can still feel a slight wobble. Is this normal or is it the bearing on the wheel hub?
Rear wheel wobble.
- Thread starter klkordzi
- Start date
How many miles on the trike??
Sounds like a bearing…If you can lift the rear wheels off the ground and spin the wheel by hand listening for crunching or grinding sound and if so That bearing is on its way out..
Jack Klarich
Guest
There should be no play @ the wheel when torqued to spec, check the other side also
You have a bearing going bad
You have a bearing going bad
Just went through this with my 2019 Honda/CSC at 8100 miles. No wobble but horrible noise and vibration, left side hub bearing unit failed. I appears to have been assembled with no lube went new. This is NOT a CSC problem since they just source them (standard auto part item)
https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/62678-2019-CSC-Goldwing-rear-diff-failure-at-8000-miles!
I have not had to replace mine so I can't personally confirm.
I have not had to replace mine so I can't personally confirm.
Yes chevy cavalier fit I have the part # for them I will get it in the morning, I just had to replace one on my 2021 Roadmaster CSC trike, I did both sides Carquest has some real good one's that are black coated instead of the raw metal, They were around $ 88. each you can buy cheap ones for $ 40 - $ 50. I did this when replacing the defective differential & the defective rear shock, at the same time I replaced the scary rear tires, Finished it last night around 11 pm test road today, It,s like new again, hope it last longer this time about 7500 miles on it . my 2008 goldwing I had done a right rear wheel bearing and a rear shock at 6000 miles .
Jack Klarich
Guest
Napa part # BR930028k
Bearing
Here's Carquest, Genden, Advance auto parts bearing number 91-45065 I think Cavalier front non ABS is the same all years. Check out the picture of these versus the other brands . I don't know why the right rear wheel bearing in these burn up 6 - 8000 miles for what there is for weight on that wheel compared to a car ????? I pulled the dust shield off the new ones to be sure they had grease in them, they were good, I also check the bearing on the new differential to be sure there was grease.
Here's Carquest, Genden, Advance auto parts bearing number 91-45065 I think Cavalier front non ABS is the same all years. Check out the picture of these versus the other brands . I don't know why the right rear wheel bearing in these burn up 6 - 8000 miles for what there is for weight on that wheel compared to a car ????? I pulled the dust shield off the new ones to be sure they had grease in them, they were good, I also check the bearing on the new differential to be sure there was grease.
BrokenBackJack
400+ Posts
Thank You
Thanks for this thread and all the posts.
Thanks for this thread and all the posts.
My caliper sits on the top of the rotor at say 12 o'clock there's two 9/16 bolts I used a long boxed end wrench
Post a picture
- Thread starter
- #17
Wheel bearing
All done. I was able to track down the original wheel bearing hub by the part number and it was a Moog hub for a 97 Chevy Cavalier. CSC sells them for $70, Rock Auto cost me $35. I'm assuming the rotor is probably for the same vehicle?
All done. I was able to track down the original wheel bearing hub by the part number and it was a Moog hub for a 97 Chevy Cavalier. CSC sells them for $70, Rock Auto cost me $35. I'm assuming the rotor is probably for the same vehicle?
Jack Klarich
Guest
- Moderator
- #19
Not trying to hijack thread, but I think I'm suffering from a bad hub bearing now too. I'm fresh off replacing the pinion seal which was a success but have noticed now a pretty good vibration while running at highway speeds which gets worse as I speed up. I don't remember noticing it before and might just be a coincedence. I dont feel it in the handlebars but can feel it on the aquaboards as well as by reaching back and grabbing onto the passenger hand holds. So something in rear is suspect.
After seeing this thread and reading up about hub bearings, it seems like that's the issue. I did the shaking of wheel top and bottom as well as side to side but don't get any movement. I then spun the left wheel and it seems smooth. But spinning the right wheel, it sounds a bit different and has an ever slight gritty like rubbing sand sound. I figure that I need to replace that.
So because of this thread, I know that the hubs are from a 97 Cavalier front. Excellent info and thanks. And watching some YouTube videos, it seems like it's not a very difficult jcoincidence based on this thread, the lack of proper lubrication has me concerned. I will probably order from Rockauto because of the price and don't need the parts immediately, just soon as I have an upcoming trip in about a week and a half. But I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to just go and replace both while I'm at it as a preventative measure. Thoughts?
My other concern though is that if these failed hubs are Moog parts as @klkordzi mentions, maybe going with Timkens might be the better choice?
After seeing this thread and reading up about hub bearings, it seems like that's the issue. I did the shaking of wheel top and bottom as well as side to side but don't get any movement. I then spun the left wheel and it seems smooth. But spinning the right wheel, it sounds a bit different and has an ever slight gritty like rubbing sand sound. I figure that I need to replace that.
So because of this thread, I know that the hubs are from a 97 Cavalier front. Excellent info and thanks. And watching some YouTube videos, it seems like it's not a very difficult jcoincidence based on this thread, the lack of proper lubrication has me concerned. I will probably order from Rockauto because of the price and don't need the parts immediately, just soon as I have an upcoming trip in about a week and a half. But I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to just go and replace both while I'm at it as a preventative measure. Thoughts?
My other concern though is that if these failed hubs are Moog parts as @klkordzi mentions, maybe going with Timkens might be the better choice?
Check out the advance auto parts number I posted, There About $85.00 the $ 40.00 ones Are Shit, Change booth of them at the same time. There easy to change pull the wheel, Then the caliper, the rotor comes off no bolts on that remove the big axle nut, Loosen the big axle nut before you remove the caliper & rotor, Then you have the 3 allen bolts, When you put it back together torgue the axle nut to 200 foot pounds. I dont no why The Right wheel bearing go in these things, If there not torqued right or if they a just the cheapest ass shit bearing money can buy ? While your there with the wheels off check to see if your rear shock is leaking on the shaft near the body of the shock ?
- Moderator
- #21
I know you, @ROAD DOG, highly recommended the Advance Auto hubs but I broke down and ordered the Moogs from Rock Auto. I looked at the Advance Auto ones and they are now over $90 each and the Moogs, I bought both for the same price almost. I have had very good luck with Moog parts before and couldn't beat the price. I went with the regular inventory choice instead of the wholesale inventory because of the better warranty and it was a difference of only $9 to get 3 year warranty over the 90 day one.
The hubs are set to get here Wed but I decided to jump in and at least remove the old ones for further inspection. One tip I might add is to get both sides jacked up in the beginning, get the brakes locked and loosen the shaft nut most of the way. It will make the process a lot smoother. And the 3 mounting bolts are on there really tight.
I used a 1/2" socket wrench with a T55 bit. I tried my impact wrench (which isn't the greatest) first but they wouldn't budge. With my socket wrench and a 3 foot bar attached to it, they came off with no problem. There seemed to be a bit of grease on the shaft splines which made the shaft just slide right out of the hub. The whole process was easy peasy...
Now when I was working on removing the right hub, there was an odd burnt like smell and it was pretty strong. The left side didn't seem to have that. Once both hubs were off, I compared both and there is a definite issue with the right and could feel it while turning. The left one still was quiet and smooth. Back to the right one, there wasn't any wobble and I think I could have gotten some more mileage out of it but at the cost of ride quality. I took the right hub and when shaking it, I could feel something rattling around in there.
When shaking the left, no such noise. I also pried the bearing covers off both as I'm replacing them anyway. On the left one, most of the bearings I could see had a yellowish discolored appearance. The left ones were still bright and shiny silver colored. Both sides did seem to have plenty of grease but I didn't check the inner bearings. I'm just glad I found this thread to point me in the right direction.
Here are photos of what I found. The first one is the right side and second is the left.
The hubs are set to get here Wed but I decided to jump in and at least remove the old ones for further inspection. One tip I might add is to get both sides jacked up in the beginning, get the brakes locked and loosen the shaft nut most of the way. It will make the process a lot smoother. And the 3 mounting bolts are on there really tight.
I used a 1/2" socket wrench with a T55 bit. I tried my impact wrench (which isn't the greatest) first but they wouldn't budge. With my socket wrench and a 3 foot bar attached to it, they came off with no problem. There seemed to be a bit of grease on the shaft splines which made the shaft just slide right out of the hub. The whole process was easy peasy...
Now when I was working on removing the right hub, there was an odd burnt like smell and it was pretty strong. The left side didn't seem to have that. Once both hubs were off, I compared both and there is a definite issue with the right and could feel it while turning. The left one still was quiet and smooth. Back to the right one, there wasn't any wobble and I think I could have gotten some more mileage out of it but at the cost of ride quality. I took the right hub and when shaking it, I could feel something rattling around in there.
When shaking the left, no such noise. I also pried the bearing covers off both as I'm replacing them anyway. On the left one, most of the bearings I could see had a yellowish discolored appearance. The left ones were still bright and shiny silver colored. Both sides did seem to have plenty of grease but I didn't check the inner bearings. I'm just glad I found this thread to point me in the right direction.
Here are photos of what I found. The first one is the right side and second is the left.
- Moderator
- #22
I did look on both sides and the shock looks ok. There is a "shelf" underneath and it's bone dry so I think I'm good on this at least. I couldn't quite see the shaft because of the long tightly wound spring though.
Jack Klarich
Guest
You would be surprised at how many of these bearings I have replaced under warranty, I had one bearing fail right after installation before I even got the vehicle to the alignment rack
Rotors Are not The same . we could never find any to match up.
BrokenBackJack
400+ Posts
Just to be sure
So just to be sure, the hub and bearing assembly is from a 97 Chevy Cavalier front hub correct?
So just to be sure, the hub and bearing assembly is from a 97 Chevy Cavalier front hub correct?
Jack Klarich
Guest
That is correct
- Moderator
- #28
My new hubs will be here tomorrow and I am just trying to find out as much as I can before I have to install them. I have watched countless YouTube videos to find out the torque values for the hub mounting bolts and most of them say look up the specs online which I have tried and they are all over the place. I did see on one to torque them to 70 ft lbs. Does this sound correct? One thing I found unusual is that just about everyone recommends a T55 bit for removing them and it actually worked well.
But these are actually hex bolts and after removing, I found that a 10mm hex bit fits perfectly. And it also appears that there is a difference for 97 and before and then 98 on up. Finding the torque values for the shaft nut are just as bad. The best I found is 185 ft lbs but @ROAD DOG mentions to go to 200 ft lbs. That's only a 15 lbs difference. Thoughts? I did have to purchase a new torque wrench as mine would only go up to 150 ft lbs. I found one on Amazon that was reasonably priced and had really good reviews. So I will be good there.
LEXIVON 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench 25-250 Ft-Lb/33.9-338.9 Nm (LX-184) https://a.co/6cCry2g
And when removing the old ones, the splines appeared to have a little grease on them. It appears to be just like the Honda Moly grease that gets used to put on the driveshaft splines on a regular GL1800. Should I throw some on the splines during reassembly? None of the videos showed anything being used on the splines.
Finally, should these be installed dry around the mount? Reason I ask is that on one video, it showed the guy using a bunch of anti seize all around the circular opening and on the face. Another guy used some bearing grease doing the same thing. But the vast majority showed putting the new hub on dry. The old ones appeared to be free of any grease or anti seize. My gut says to install dry because all that exposed grease seems like it would just attract more grime. That seems like a bad idea but figured I would ask beforehand.
But these are actually hex bolts and after removing, I found that a 10mm hex bit fits perfectly. And it also appears that there is a difference for 97 and before and then 98 on up. Finding the torque values for the shaft nut are just as bad. The best I found is 185 ft lbs but @ROAD DOG mentions to go to 200 ft lbs. That's only a 15 lbs difference. Thoughts? I did have to purchase a new torque wrench as mine would only go up to 150 ft lbs. I found one on Amazon that was reasonably priced and had really good reviews. So I will be good there.
LEXIVON 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench 25-250 Ft-Lb/33.9-338.9 Nm (LX-184) https://a.co/6cCry2g
And when removing the old ones, the splines appeared to have a little grease on them. It appears to be just like the Honda Moly grease that gets used to put on the driveshaft splines on a regular GL1800. Should I throw some on the splines during reassembly? None of the videos showed anything being used on the splines.
Finally, should these be installed dry around the mount? Reason I ask is that on one video, it showed the guy using a bunch of anti seize all around the circular opening and on the face. Another guy used some bearing grease doing the same thing. But the vast majority showed putting the new hub on dry. The old ones appeared to be free of any grease or anti seize. My gut says to install dry because all that exposed grease seems like it would just attract more grime. That seems like a bad idea but figured I would ask beforehand.
Jack Klarich
Guest
Clean the inside bore and mounting face, apply a light coat of bearing grease in the knuckle, 185 on the Axle nut, 70 ft lbs on bearing bolts
Not arguing here, Will from CSC tells me the axle nut 200. But at that rate what's the difference 185 - 200 , My hub bearings bolts I torqued at 45 . I used a allen socket . I always put never seize on the axle splines and around knuckle were the bearing goes in, everybody does it there way. Thats mine
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