Getting ready to change the oil and check the differential. How in the world do you guys jack up tour trike? I can hardly get the pan off the bottom, let along check the rear end oil level.
Jacking up my trike.
- Thread starter RobertW
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- #3
Must have posted at the same time. Weird. I don't know. It looks like I need 3 of them to do a shaky job. Three ramps would just get in the way.
What flavor of a trike is it Robert?
I run the front wheel part way up 1 car ramp.So far the rear end has been checked by the dealer.RIDE SAFE
I do not know where,but I think there is a thread on this.
I do not know where,but I think there is a thread on this.
I made 3 ramps which are each 2 part so I can remove the ramp and leave the trike on the level portion once the trike is up. I only raised mine 3" so I could get the oil pan under and give me room to get my hand in to unscrew the drain plug which I couldn't after triking it. I made the ramps a very shallow angle which made them longer, but made it much easier to ride the trike up without having to gun the engine then slam on the brakes. Works for me.
I have a low tech approach that works well - at least for me: Get three 2 x 12 boards 3' long. Cut one end at a 45 degree angle. Three more 2 x 12's, 2" long. Same 45 degree cut on one end. Nail the short board on top of the longer board with the 90 degree ends matching and the 45 degree angles both sloping upwards. Cut a couple of 2 x 12 x 6" pieces to screw on the square ends as wheel stops. Glue some sandpaper on the bottoms of your homemade ramps.
To use, simply put an angled end up against the front of each wheel, put the bike in first and slowly ride up the ramps until you feel the bike go up the second angled board - then stop!
You now have 3" of extra workspace under the bike.
To use, simply put an angled end up against the front of each wheel, put the bike in first and slowly ride up the ramps until you feel the bike go up the second angled board - then stop!
You now have 3" of extra workspace under the bike.
On my Motor Trike, air up rear shocks, slide motorcycle jack under the rear to catch frame. Raise to first stop and then use floor jack under engine, jack up and put 6X6 under front wheel. Lower and remove floor jack. Change oil, grease driveshalf, and check rearend. And look it over.
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- #10
California Side Car
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- #11
I thought of that also. Just jack each wheel one at a time and place a block under each wheel. That way it's level for draining and checking oil. Three ramps would be in the way.
I bought a motorcycle jack at Harbor Freight for $89. Best investment that I have made in a long time.
Worn out joints and old bones won't let me work that low to the ground much. To change oil I run the front tire up onto a 2 X 6 which gives me plenty of room for the drain pan and filter access. Any other work needing done I pull out the big guns... After it's up in the air where I can get under the rear I use the scissors jack and 2 X 6 blocks to get the tires off the lift for removal.
Take a 5 gal bucket, cut it down so it will just fit under the oil drain area. Works great and cost very little. It's the pouring it out that you have to be carefull with. A small v-notch cut into 1 part of the lip helps with that.
- Thread starter
- #15
Worn out joints and old bones won't let me work that low to the ground much. To change oil I run the front tire up onto a 2 X 6 which gives me plenty of room for the drain pan and filter access. Any other work needing done I pull out the big guns... After it's up in the air where I can get under the rear I use the scissors jack and 2 X 6 blocks to get the tires off the lift for removal.
I like your idea, but, it looks to me that the foot of your stand is not very wide. If your bike ever fell over.... I guess you could weld some extensions to the sides for better stability.
Actally, there is a five foot piece of black pipe that goes through the base. It's real stable....
Worn out joints and old bones won't let me work that low to the ground much. To change oil I run the front tire up onto a 2 X 6 which gives me plenty of room for the drain pan and filter access. Any other work needing done I pull out the big guns... After it's up in the air where I can get under the rear I use the scissors jack and 2 X 6 blocks to get the tires off the lift for removal.
Not sure of the weight rating of your lift but I do notice its stance isn't real wide. I'd use some extra caution while working around it, I've done a lot of work off lifts and have had them really rocking when trying to loosen something difficult. You'll notice the Handy I work off of has feet that are as wide as the trike wings that are installed on it, the lift is meant for trikes.
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- #18
Worn out joints and old bones won't let me work that low to the ground much. To change oil I run the front tire up onto a 2 X 6 which gives me plenty of room for the drain pan and filter access. Any other work needing done I pull out the big guns... After it's up in the air where I can get under the rear I use the scissors jack and 2 X 6 blocks to get the tires off the lift for removal.
This helps getting the bike up in the air, but, it still won't let me get underneath. My bike has only 3" clearance. I think I'll look into someway to jack each wheel up one at a time and put a jack stand under each back wheel and keep the jack under the front wheel.
- Thread starter
- #20
You use a scissors jack under the trike to lift it for the clearance you need.
Still, how do you use a scissors jack on the front of the bike? Mine is a Honda with 3" clearance.
Did you notice the Harbor Freight scissor jack setting on the lift? It slips under each frame side and I lift it and put a support block in then move to the other side and do the same. After that the wheels come off and I can easily get to things.
Ive been looking at the motorcycle jacks at harbor freight..they have 2 of them ,one is $89 and a fancier one is $179...I am wondering how good they will work on a trike with ground effects ..looks like they will go under the diff from the rear but might not go under the side in order to jack up the whole trike at the same time....i use 2 of the low profile floor jacks (known as racing jacks at harbor freight) under both lower control arms with 2 pieces of wood and it seems pretty stable (keep front wheel straight)...I use a cooking pan for drainage about 12 inches across and 3 inches deep,I pour the used oil right back in the jug (easy pour with funnel)..the only lift needed on the front for engine oil change is a 6 inch wide x 2 thick board about 2 ft long (drive on with front wheel)
Handles the weight of a trike OK? I will have to check that out. Getting tired of paying the dealership for oil changes, etc.
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