Trailer tie down locations

[dloy1324]

Looking at a 5'x10' trailer for hauling TG. I know five feet wide is tight but the sides fold down allowing for easy access. The rails bolt on the outside of the deck which is exactly 60" wide. Able to pick location and number of tie downs. I'm thinking one in each corner and one each side level with engine guard. Thoughts and recommendations please.
Thank you

 

[DK Custom Products]

Looking at a 5'x10' trailer for hauling TG. I know five feet wide is tight but the sides fold down allowing for easy access. The rails bolt on the outside of the deck which is exactly 60" wide. Able to pick location and number of tie downs. I'm thinking one in each corner and one each side level with engine guard. Thoughts and recommendations please.
Thank you

Here is how I tie down my TG-



I use the same tie down points on a flatbed or a truck deck.

Kevin

 

[Papa Zook]

Looking at a 5'x10' trailer for hauling TG. I know five feet wide is tight but the sides fold down allowing for easy access. The rails bolt on the outside of the deck which is exactly 60" wide. Able to pick location and number of tie downs. I'm thinking one in each corner and one each side level with engine guard. Thoughts and recommendations please.
Thank you

What 5X10 trailer brand and model are you looking at?

I am guessing you're possibly looking at a Karavan brand or similar folding side-rail style utility trailer? Those are quality trailers and popular, however I would advise you to get at least a 6 ft or 6 1/2 ft wide trailer for your Tri-Glide and here is why. I have hauled a multitude of trike conversions (un-mounted) as well as completed trikes over the last 20 years and trust me on this...you will want to have more than 2 1/2 inches of clearance per side between your Tri-Glide's 55" wide rear end and your trailer's 60" wide side rails.

There will be constant bumps and dips in the road along the way (especially on the Interstates...think I-20 in Lousianna or I-10 in Texas) and no matter how well your trike is tied down, over distance the trike and trailer's suspension and low pressure tires will bounce enough to allow some strap stretch and movement of the trike and those fenders can rub the trailer rail and ruin your paint. I know this from experience and discovering paint damage from your trike bouncing and shifting is a bad feeling. That extra bit of width is good insurance.

 

[dloy1324]

What 5X10 trailer brand and model are you looking at?


I am guessing you're possibly looking at a Karavan brand or similar style utility trailer? Those are quality trailers and popular, however I would advise you to get at least 6 ft or 6 1/2 ft wide trailer for your Tri-Glide and here is why. I have hauled a multitude of trike conversions and trikes over the last 20 years and trust me on this...you will want to have more than 2 1/2 inches of clearance per side between your Tri-Glide's 55"rear end and your trailer's 60" side rails. There will be bumps and dips in the road along the way and no matter how well your trike is tied down, over distance the trike and trailer's suspension will bounce enough to allow some strap stretch and movement and those fenders can rub the paint. I know this from experience and discovering paint damage from your trike bouncing and shifting is a bad feeling. That extra bit of width is good insurance.

Papa you are correct it is the Karavan and I was concerned about the lack of space too. Based on your recommendation I’m changing over to their 6x10 model. Thank you for your advice. Do the tie down locations make sense?

 

[Papa Zook]

As for my tie down preference, I personally have used the 2" Cargo Buckle brand, (bolt-on the trailer) rachet straps as my go-to system.. They are the quickest, most secure and consistant method Ive used to secure mine or my customer's trikes on all three of my trailers. Two are the Ultimate Trailer brand air ride teardrop enclosed drive-on trailers and one is my heavy duty 24ft steel open trailer. These straps are very well made and will last for many years.




I use one set of 2 for the rear and one set of two for the front (one per side on the crash bars). I also use a quality drive on K&L or similar wheel chock for the front wheel. Actually, Harbor Freight makes a decent wheel chock, don't remember the model, but its not their cheapest one. I will check that and revise.