Road Smith Brakes

[bikerbillone]

Here's a vast improvement on the RS brakes, and I don't have the new improved pads....

It's a show chrome brake pedal slider B21-551J, best price is on Cycle Max. There have been a number of posts on this forum about inadequate rear braking powder, I found this to be well worth the investment and time to install. I may well work on other brands, I only speak from my experience. There were no install instructions with my part, but the thing does slide apart and makes the install easier, discovered this quite by accident.

 

[rmrc51]

Great addition Bill. Always good to hear of another option which aides in braking power. ThumbUp

I have something similar along with a special shim (installs between the stock brake pedal and pedal cover) I bought from Roadsmith that raises the pedal cover and also moves the cover outward to allow for easier/quicker foot access. I believe this shim was designed for the Comfort Controls which I also have.

 

[bikerbillone]

Thanks Rich, good addition to my OP. Thinking whatever adds to the safety and comfort of the ride is positive.

 

[mhgoldwing]

I installed this one also and it made a big improvement. The new EBC Yellow Stuff pads made a big difference also. Happy camper now! epper:

 

[bikerbillone]

I'll be getting those EBC yellow pads too when I wear these originals down a bit.

 

[StorminNormin]

Has anybody heard that the Yellow EBC pads will wear out the rotors faster than normal brake pads. My installer said they do.

Any Opinions out here?:Shrug:

 

[bikerbillone]

That's interesting, look to hear more about this. I haven't tried Googling it, that might be a start.

 

[Virg49]

I also have the Roadsmith and comfort control.from day one felt like no rear brakes ...dealer said they fine....did the honda rally in Madison and talked to the co owner so they pulled the wheels and said my pads never seated in so they changed them and adjusted the pedal...the pads were only contacting the top quarter of the pad and disc...new pads are ok now.Only had the less than a year...........Virg49

 

[bikerbillone]

Hmmmm, well that's not good, the installer is should make safety the #1 priority and check the brakes on the test ride. Maybe I'm missing something here.

 

[geol]

Roadsmith brakes on an HT conversion at least (GL1500) delink the linked brakes. On a 2 wheeler (I think this also applies to the GL1800) the front brake lever actuates both pistons on the right front caliper and one piston on the left. The rear brake pedal actuates the rear caliper and of course, the other piston on the left front caliper. When the trike conversion is done, the rear brake pedal now needs to actuate TWO rear calipers so they disconnect the front left piston from the junction and the rear pedal only works the two rear calipers. I suspect two things are happening...
1. the master cylinder may be small for the size of the work needed to be done hydraulically and
2. the front brake pedal has no mechanical advantage in its current position (as proved by the addition of that chrome block by the OP).

The front brakes, left with an uneven number of pots being actuated on the two sides wears much more quickly on the right than left and braking force is unequal. Not sure the unequal braking force does any harm.

Some other manufacturers of conversions address this issue. Roadsmith doesn't. Not saying it is a bad thing, just would have preferred a larger master cylinder as part of the kit where it could handle the linked brakes as the bike was originally.

BTW: My installer, Kevin of KDK Cycles in Alabama suggests taking out the 11mm bolt that retains the rear brake pedal, pulling the pedal off the splined shaft and rotating it where it sits up a bit higher in order to get more mechanical advantage for the rear brake. Suspect this would help the 1800 conversions as well if you don't want to buy the chrome bit used by the OP.

 

[Roadsmith Trikes]

Wiredgeorge,

Just as a clarification, Roadsmith disconnects the linked braking system so as to eliminate the possibility of over-powering, and thereby locking up, the front wheel causing loss of control during heavy rear brake application. Our research has shown that the braking function, already greatly improved with the addition of the larger tires and contact patches in the rear, is more controllable and effective when the rider is able to modulate the front and rear brakes separately on a trike.

 

[mhgoldwing]

Wiredgeorge,

Just as a clarification, Roadsmith disconnects the linked braking system so as to eliminate the possibility of over-powering, and thereby locking up, the front wheel causing loss of control during heavy rear brake application. Our research has shown that the braking function, already greatly improved with the addition of the larger tires and contact patches in the rear, is more controllable and effective when the rider is able to modulate the front and rear brakes separately on a trike.

:Agree:

 

[Roadsmith Trikes]

Wiredgeorge,

Just as a clarification, Roadsmith disconnects the linked braking system so as to eliminate the possibility of over-powering, and thereby locking up, the front wheel causing loss of control during heavy rear brake application. Our research has shown that the braking function, already greatly improved with the addition of the larger tires and contact patches in the rear, is more controllable and effective when the rider is able to modulate the front and rear brakes separately on a trike.

 

[StorminNormin]

While I have only had my conversion for a week today, but I have managed about 1000 miles on it, the very first thing that I noticed was the FACT that I was NOT gong to stop this trike in anything close to the same distance as the original bike. Even using front & rear brakes, that is not going to happen. The rear brakes did in fact seem to be mooshie and weak compared to what the rear brake used to be. I have been able to stop the trike in hurry but I really have to stand on the rear brake and front to do it.:AGGHH: So far that is my only real complaint. I know there is a learning curve and I expected that, but the lack of strong rear braking is disappointing.

I do love the lines and ride of the kit though, so I think I will keep it.:clapping:

 

[Sand Piper]

I also was unhappy with my rear brakes. Bought a low mile 2008 RS.Called RS and they sent me EBC Ultimax2 DP105-eo brake pads. Old pads only had 8000 miles on them. Bike now feels as if rear brakes have a power booster on them. A soft pedal and stop on a dime after 700 miles of use.

 

[geol]

Wiredgeorge,

Just as a clarification, Roadsmith disconnects the linked braking system so as to eliminate the possibility of over-powering, and thereby locking up, the front wheel causing loss of control during heavy rear brake application. Our research has shown that the braking function, already greatly improved with the addition of the larger tires and contact patches in the rear, is more controllable and effective when the rider is able to modulate the front and rear brakes separately on a trike.

The rear brakes on my conversion are exactly as StorminNormin described. WEAK. I really have to stand on the brake pedal to get any braking power. I suspect a larger rear master cylinder OR more mechanical advantage at the brake pedal would help. I don't have any way to raise the rear brake pedal as it uses the peg mount as a stop. Perhaps different pads would help?

 

[Papa Zook]

I also was unhappy with my rear brakes. Bought a low mile 2008 RS. Called RS and they sent me EBC Ultimax2 DP105-eo brake pads. Old pads only had 8000 miles on them. Bike now feels as if rear brakes have a power booster on them. A soft pedal and stop on a dime after 700 miles of use.

Thanks for the report, sounds like the new pads really helped.

 

[bikerbillone]

I'm encouraged, RS has certainly treated me right.