Pads and Rotors on a 2014 Triglide

[FRR]

I'm posting this question for a friend of mine who is not a member of this site. He has a 2014 Tri glide which was purchased new. He started having problems with the brakes and rotors soon after he took delivery. He had a wreck last fall down south that was directly related to the rear brake failure. When rebuilding the bike the dealer wanted to use the existing pads and rotors. My friend naturally objected and after much discussion they agreed to replace both. However once again for the third time the rotors are showing damage after less than 12,000 miles. He has been told that the only option to solve the problem would be a $1200 fix that included new rotors and pads. Both aftermarket. He claims the rotors showed no visible damage two months ago but now are very much scarred. He has put last then 400 miles on the bike in the last two months.

Has any one else out there had a similar problem and if so what has been a workable solution. All responses will be communicated to him. Thanks much folks.

 

[Phu Cat]

Did he document the brake problems he had 'shortly after delivery' as this could be crucial.
Had the 24 month warranty expired? Even if it had, he still may be able to get the MoCo to fix the brakes if the early documentation is in place.

Introducing aftermarket products now would only seem to muddy the water to me, and at a hefty price, too. Harley's brake's aren't inherently bad news, but that dealership could have overlooked something it shouldn't have. If your buddy has his bike repaired by this shop again I'd insist on a better mechanic working on my brake system this time. If they don't have a better mechanic maybe it's time to take the bike to another shop.

Phu Cat

 

[FRR]

He did document long before the 24 expiration. HD Dealer is no help accord to Tim. I did learn the first issue was only 7 months after delivery. Not 12,000 miles even. Dealer no assistance

 

[Phu Cat]

Is there another HD dealer nearby?

PC

 

[peteg59]

While I'm not up on TGlide rear brake componentry, it sounds like the caliper might be suspect.
If the rear pads & rotors are wiped twice, in what sounds like fairly short mileage, I'd replace caliper too.
Trike probably has ABS?, and the complexity of ABS likely adds more potential failure points.
As others have suggested, another dealer is a good idea...

 

[FRR]

No ABS on his Triglide. He said Harley Davidson isn't that advanced yet.

 

[Phu Cat]

No ABS on his Triglide. He said Harley Davidson isn't that advanced yet.
HD doesn't put ABS on trikes cuz they're not as likely to tip over as a single track vehicle, and you can lock up the brakes on a Tglide and not dump it.

PC

 

[rhino 2]

Just for my own info, How did the brake's Contribute to his wreck??

 

[gerald martin]

brakes

could it be that his parking brake is out of adjutant. I had a 2010 tri glide and even 1/4 turn would make the pads rub and heat up the rotors. Adjustment is critical and should be checked every oil change. Also you can not rely on most of the dealerships as they do not have real mechanics working on your bike. Most dealerships have only one qualified mechanic and he is the service manager who rarely gets his hands dirty. His SOLE duty is telling everyone with a problem (the famous Harley quote) WE HAVE NOT SEEN THAT PROBLEM or THAT IS NORMAL. Buy a manual and do your own adjustments. It is simple with the manual and every one can do it

 

[consitter]

No ABS on his Triglide. He said Harley Davidson isn't that advanced yet.
HD doesn't put ABS on trikes cuz they're not as likely to tip over as a single track vehicle, and you can lock up the brakes on a Tglide and not dump it.

PC

What he said. However I wish TGs had ABS on them.

 

[FRR]

Just for my own info, How did the brake's Contribute to his wreck??

Apparently when he was riding with several others coming back from Daytona last Fall a year ago they group got into heavy traffic. When it slowed up ahead several had to apply their brakes hard. He was one, From what he said others observed, only the front brake engaged. Black marks when the front tire locked. The rider behind him claimed that the rear wheels never stopped turning and it appeared the rear brakes did not engage. HD claimed there was nothing wrong with his brakes. After several problems with the dealer trying to get the Trike rebuilt properly, they finally agreed to replace the rotors but still wanted to use the old pads. Go figure. He finally got new pads and rotors but in 7,000 miles both are shot again. I've often told him how helpful guys are on this site so he asked me if I would post something to see if others have had this problem. I never post anything on the Harley site since those folks literally attack any post that dares to criticize, or appear to criticize Harley. That is the reason I sought input on General Discussion.

 

[cavie]

Apparently when he was riding with several others coming back from Daytona last Fall a year ago they group got into heavy traffic. When it slowed up ahead several had to apply their brakes hard. He was one, From what he said others observed, only the front brake engaged. Black marks when the front tire locked. The rider behind him claimed that the rear wheels never stopped turning and it appeared the rear brakes did not engage. HD claimed there was nothing wrong with his brakes. After several problems with the dealer trying to get the Trike rebuilt properly, they finally agreed to replace the rotors but still wanted to use the old pads. Go figure. He finally got new pads and rotors but in 7,000 miles both are shot again. I've often told him how helpful guys are on this site so he asked me if I would post something to see if others have had this problem. I never post anything on the Harley site since those folks literally attack any post that dares to criticize, or appear to criticize Harley. That is the reason I sought input on General Discussion.

I just don't understand the thinking of not replacing the pads. They are about $34.00 retail so what can the cost the dealer be, $18-24 dollars???:xzqxz: Not much to invest in good customer relations never mind the advertising value of good service. These traits are too often lost in American business these days. That is why I seek out independent shops to do the work that I don't wish to undertake. The pads on my Champion have somewhere in the neighborhood of 20,000 miles on them and look brand new along with the rotors. VW pads and rotors.:clapping: I hope Champion is reading this. I don't often praise them.

 

[1dn5up]

I must be missing sumptin!
Duzent the 60-40 braking rule change to 50-50 on panic stops :Shrug:
Also if one uses the rear brake peddle as a foot rest, pads don't last very long. JMO

 

[rhino 2]

Apparently when he was riding with several others coming back from Daytona last Fall a year ago they group got into heavy traffic. When it slowed up ahead several had to apply their brakes hard. He was one, From what he said others observed, only the front brake engaged. Black marks when the front tire locked. The rider behind him claimed that the rear wheels never stopped turning and it appeared the rear brakes did not engage. HD claimed there was nothing wrong with his brakes. After several problems with the dealer trying to get the Trike rebuilt properly, they finally agreed to replace the rotors but still wanted to use the old pads. Go figure. He finally got new pads and rotors but in 7,000 miles both are shot again. I've often told him how helpful guys are on this site so he asked me if I would post something to see if others have had this problem. I never post anything on the Harley site since those folks literally attack any post that dares to criticize, or appear to criticize Harley. That is the reason I sought input on General Discussion.

No criticism intended ; But is your friend sure he stepped on the rear brake pedal and also pulled the clutch all the way in,? I say that i once let my neighbor take my Tri for a ride around the block, When he came back he commented that is seems the Tri takes a long time to slow down! I asked were you using the foot brake?.. He looked at me and said' Oops No he was used to his Honda which has linked brakes..Is there Anyway you can get your friend to sign up at triketalk...:Shrug: Sometimes Third party posts lead to misunderstandings.....

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[FRR]

No criticism intended ; But is your friend sure he stepped on the rear brake pedal and also pulled the clutch all the way in,? I say that i once let my neighbor take my Tri for a ride around the block, When he came back he commented that is seems the Tri takes a long time to slow down! I asked were you using the foot brake?.. He looked at me and said' Oops No he was used to his Honda which has linked brakes..Is there Anyway you can get your friend to sign up at triketalk...:Shrug: Sometimes Third party posts lead to misunderstandings.....

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I agree with what you are saying. I only know he claims he literally grabbed the hand break, stomped on the rear brake and pulled the clutch in. I do appreciate you folks responding and I have passed on your comments to him.

 

[MikeyTX]

could it be that his parking brake is out of adjutant. I had a 2010 tri glide and even 1/4 turn would make the pads rub and heat up the rotors. Adjustment is critical and should be checked every oil change. Also you can not rely on most of the dealerships as they do not have real mechanics working on your bike. Most dealerships have only one qualified mechanic and he is the service manager who rarely gets his hands dirty. His SOLE duty is telling everyone with a problem (the famous Harley quote) WE HAVE NOT SEEN THAT PROBLEM or THAT IS NORMAL. Buy a manual and do your own adjustments. It is simple with the manual and every one can do it

Don't even need a service manual. Detailed explaination with pictures in the o/m. Yeah, I know, what the heck is that ? Btw, it requires both metric and SAE open end wrenches. The lock nut is 14mm, the adjustment sleeve hex is 1/2" .........:AGGHH:

 

[rhino 2]

Don't even need a service manual. Detailed explaination with pictures in the o/m. Yeah, I know, what the heck is that ? Btw, it requires both metric and SAE open end wrenches. The lock nut is 14mm, the adjustment sleeve hex is 1/2" .........:AGGHH:

The park brake is adjusted.... At least on my 11 Tri, By loosening the small allen sew on the end of the park brake handle's nob and then turning the nob by hand till the brakes ''Just'' hold when pushing in neutral...

 

[MikeyTX]

Sounds last century ............. :laugh: Oh ........... Wait ............. Yours is an '11. Those are the ones that say AMF in a triangle on the tank aren't they ? Have a happy and safe 4th rhino 2. I know I'm glad I can stay home and off the streets this year. :clapping: