having problem with a motortrike i can't seem to track down.

[rvance]

Sorry

To butt in here, but if you are making it take more pull to turn the handlebars by tightening the head bearing adjustment nuts, then you are creating tension by distorting the steel balls and races. This is NOT how you make a damper. It can and will cause a catastrophic failure of the steering head with probably terrible results. Just take it to a pro, please.

 

[3W-lonerider]

sorry but iv'e been turning wrenches for 45 years. this isn't my first rodeo with neck bearings. just did'nt realize neck bearing would create a rear end wiggle to this magnatude. this thing did'nt shimmy it was an osolation to the point it was like riding a carnival ride. when i tightened the head bearings it was good at 7lb pull. but then after a week or 2 went right back into the osolating rear end.

came to the conclusion that the right from heim came loose alot when it was first built because everything was in a bind. i think the threads in that right front ladder bar was loose and allowing the heim to move even though the jamb nut was tight.

either that or the head bearings were bad, they did have over 100,000 miles on them. but i do appreciate the response. but at this point i don't need to worry about it.

the beginning of aug. the alternator cable shorted out and took alot of stuff out with it. including the wiring harness and all the electrical. there were parts i could no longer get so the trike was totalled. new trike is being built now. should have it before the end of the year.

new trike is being built now.

 

[CrystalPistol]

To butt in here, but if you are making it take more pull to turn the handlebars by tightening the head bearing adjustment nuts, then you are creating tension by distorting the steel balls and races. This is NOT how you make a damper. It can and will cause a catastrophic failure of the steering head with probably terrible results. Just take it to a pro, please.

Tapered roller bearings will tolerate some tightening as they spread the load across the faces of the races. Ball bearings will develop flats on some balls and dents in the races creating a situation where the fork wants to point only certain ways, and a steady fight ensues.

I missed it if 3w-lonerider ever said whether he has a kit that included stem tapered roller bearings or OEM like ball bearings in his 1800.

 

[rvance]

Sorry again

Tapered roller bearings will tolerate some tightening as they spread the load across the faces of the races. Ball bearings will develop flats on some balls and dents in the races creating a situation where the fork wants to point only certain ways, and a steady fight ensues.

I missed it if 3w-lonerider ever said whether he has a kit that included stem tapered roller bearings or OEM like ball bearings in his 1800.

But I have been turning wrenches for over 50 years and I know a really bad idea when I hear it. Sorry to hear about the trike being totaled, but I am happy to hear that it didn't involve any injuries to your person.

 

[3W-lonerider]

Tapered roller bearings will tolerate some tightening as they spread the load across the faces of the races. Ball bearings will develop flats on some balls and dents in the races creating a situation where the fork wants to point only certain ways, and a steady fight ensues.

I missed it if 3w-lonerider ever said whether he has a kit that included stem tapered roller bearings or OEM like ball bearings in his 1800.

the trike had tapered bearings.7lb pull felt good if i went to 10lb pull it was like you said i was fighting the handlebars.

anything less than 7lb pull and the front felt loose and sloppy if that makes sense.

and no i wasn't trying to create a steering dampner using the bearing torque. but if you woulda rode this thing at 60 mph it woulda scared the living crap out of you. it would not do it if the wife was on at any speed. only when there was no weight in the back seat. which lead me to believe it almost had to be in the rear of the trike. thats what i was focusing on.

 

[CrystalPistol]

the trike had tapered bearings.7lb pull felt good if i went to 10lb pull it was like you said i was fighting the handlebars.

anything less than 7lb pull and the front felt loose and sloppy if that makes sense.

and no i wasn't trying to create a steering dampner using the bearing torque. but if you woulda rode this thing at 60 mph it woulda scared the living crap out of you. it would not do it if the wife was on at any speed. only when there was no weight in the back seat. which lead me to believe it almost had to be in the rear of the trike. thats what i was focusing on.

My only question was stem bearings. All the 1200 & 1500 versions of Gold Wings came factory with tapered roller bearings but 1800s got ball type bearings for a lighter feel, but loads are concentrated in points, not across the length of a roller, and the balls & races will not tolerate excess torque. Rake kits usually come with tapered roller bearings and most of the time, they recommend near about double torque value of stem nut. Mine with EZ Steer is … or was about 30 ft lbs. where as Honda says 15 I think. Mine did have tapered roller bearings OEM being a 1500, but EZ Steer kit came with new ones with races.

 

[CrystalPistol]

But I have been turning wrenches for over 50 years and I know a really bad idea when I hear it. Sorry to hear about the trike being totaled, but I am happy to hear that it didn't involve any injuries to your person.

:Shrug: Wasn't me or mine …:xzqxz:… but Thank You.

As to a "really bad idea", the tapered roller stem bearings don't see the speed, the constant revolutions, the loads, or the heat … as do those used in wheel bearings. Unless they are involved in a really messed up wreck, they'll never se a full revolution, just movement back and forth across a very narrow range. Swing arm bearings see similar use.