Floor Board Shifter heck its giving me

[chris vickers]

I took the original pegs and shifter lever off a few months ago and replaced with the floor board which I love but after I would say a day or two or twisty roads I have to re adjust the bar adjustment ( sometimes forward and sometimes backwards) as it will start to be hard to go into 1st or 2nd and have had to do this numerous times on rides. I have lock tighten everything, ensured I had everything tight etc and it keeps happening. I am beginning to think it may possibly be the shaft that comes out of the tranny that you hook a shifter linkage to. I had no issues with the stock shifter until i put the floor boards on, HELP

PS I know she needs a good cleaning

 

[Solidbob]

With all that linkage on your 1500 I'd say something has to be binding somewhere..... my 1800 is simple and has no problem other than I had to mount the arm backward to gain some length with the Floorboards & Aqua Shields on my Roadsmith Trike....

 

[rhino 2]

Just a hunch, Is the set screw on the linkage tight in the groove on the shaft...
ie; Is the linkage pushed in enough on the shaft for the set screw to lock on...:Shrug:

 

[chris vickers]

Just a hunch, Is the set screw on the linkage tight in the groove on the shaft...
ie; Is the linkage pushed in enough on the shaft for the set screw to lock on...:Shrug:

I think so but will check it this weekend

 

[Marc H]

I have the same setup on mine and it does the same thing I just haven't dealt with it completely yet.From your pics you have the jam nuts locking the short threaded pieces to the ball joints but nothing locking the sleeve to the threaded shafts.If you add a jam nut one side to lock the collar that should take care of it.At least thats my plan anyway.Also 1 of those pivot supports are worth their weight in gold for the more reliable and good feeling shifts.No more spongy feeling.

 

[Warlock]

I took the original pegs and shifter lever off a few months ago and replaced with the floor board which I love but after I would say a day or two or twisty roads I have to re adjust the bar adjustment ( sometimes forward and sometimes backwards) as it will start to be hard to go into 1st or 2nd and have had to do this numerous times on rides. I have lock tighten everything, ensured I had everything tight etc and it keeps happening. I am beginning to think it may possibly be the shaft that comes out of the tranny that you hook a shifter linkage to. I had no issues with the stock shifter until i put the floor boards on, HELP

PS I know she needs a good cleaning

I just bought a 1500 trike with the same set up. Only thing I can say is I ordered everything to put it back stock. Hated these floorboards, and the way the brake was set up.
David

 

[CrystalPistol]

Unlike the 1000 / 1100 / 1200 / & 1800 GoldWings, the GL1500 has an extra lever between the shift lever you removed to install this H&T shifter ..... and the actual shifter shaft sticking out the side of the engine / trans. case. As you move the shifter from N to 1st and then up to 2nd, notice that it's is not a rotation only, but the shaft itself moves throughan arc. It also complicates things because it has a long shaft to the side.

Below in this link is a shifter pivot that works to provide an additional pivot in line with the shft shaft that you can't see coming out of the engine / trans case ..... that supports the outer shaft that you can see and keeps it aligned. It works ..... I know because I made my own that does the exact same thing ..... but if I had it to do again ...... I'ld just buy this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2000-Go...JTG6VI&vxp=mtr

I went through several modifications to my "Lowboy" style drivers running board H&T shifter before reaching what I consider the best setup.

Started by eliminating the heel rest part on the shifter and welding a meel rest on the rear of the mount to match the one on the right side .... using the pad off the brake pedal ...... then I added a new toe pad on the brake pedal that I cut off the OEM brake pedal. Eventually, besides the pivot ....

I used the part with set screw and made a whole new adjustable shift lever that lets me use a OEM toe rubber and shift with toe always, I just place heel on new heel rest and shift up or down. Works great for me.... better than the above with linkage still in place. Making that part where the rubber is separate allowsed me to make it some adjustable for final fitting .... used two 5/15" bolts welded side by side and ground to a smooth oval with a lip like the aluminum OEM so rubber stays on.

 

[chris vickers]

Unlike the 1000 / 1100 / 1200 / & 1800 GoldWings, the GL1500 has an extra lever between the shift lever you removed to install this H&T shifter ..... and the actual shifter shaft sticking out the side of the engine / trans. case. As you move the shifter from N to 1st and then up to 2nd, notice that it's is not a rotation only, but the shaft itself moves throughan arc. It also complicates things because it has a long shaft to the side.

Below in this link is a shifter pivot that works to provide an additional pivot in line with the shft shaft that you can't see coming out of the engine / trans case ..... that supports the outer shaft that you can see and keeps it aligned. It works ..... I know because I made my own that does the exact same thing ..... but if I had it to do again ...... I'ld just buy this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2000-Go...JTG6VI&vxp=mtr

I went through several modifications to my "Lowboy" style drivers running board H&T shifter before reaching what I consider the best setup.

Started by eliminating the heel rest part on the shifter and welding a meel rest on the rear of the mount to match the one on the right side .... using the pad off the brake pedal ...... then I added a new toe pad on the brake pedal that I cut off the OEM brake pedal. Eventually, besides the pivot ....

I used the part with set screw and made a whole new adjustable shift lever that lets me use a OEM toe rubber and shift with toe always, I just place heel on new heel rest and shift up or down. Works great for me.... better than the above with linkage still in place. Making that part where the rubber is separate allowsed me to make it some adjustable for final fitting .... used two 5/15" bolts welded side by side and ground to a smooth oval with a lip like the aluminum OEM so rubber stays on.

For sure interesting ideas, Thanks guys, This site has some smart peeps on it

 

[CrystalPistol]

I meant to add that to make the new left side heel rest match the one on the right in height from the floorboard .... I did add a small piece of 3/8" steel above that socket headed countersunk bolt at rear. I then cleaned the welds, polished some surfaces to look like chrome, and simply applied a good coat of brush on clear touch up "clear coat" .... I've done the same on other projects and the CC seals really well and so far I've never had to redo any, no rust once done.

Likewise, where I cut that rounded part on the bracket off to eliminate the pivot, some filing, sanding, and a dab of clear ..... it shines.

My shifter's arm is 3/8" thick X about 3/4" tall steel welded on that steel hub that originally carried the lower end of the link in your setup.

Yeah ...... I started with a brand new FB w/ H&T setup.

The first rendition of strictly toe shifter with the linkage intact was probably not as bad as I made out, it was easy to rig using the cutoff rear arm as shown ..... but the toe lever arced back into my foot on top on upshfts and I found it bothersome, irksome, irritating even. The current set up has the toe pad which is some larger and softer, arcing up and away thus staying down on my toe and not digging into the top of my foot on up shifts.

 

[chris vickers]

I installed the shifter pivot brace this weekend, the shifts are much cleaner now, also I had not originally tightened the jam nuts correctly so i did that as well

I think all will be great now, thanks for all the advice

 

[Marc H]

That shifter brace makes it feel like a different trans.Much better shifts.

 

[chris vickers]

That shifter brace makes it feel like a different trans.Much better shifts.

Yep i tend to agree now hehe, i rode more new years day, it was 33 degrees so had to leather up. My 89 GL blocks most of the wind so it really wasn't too bad but i only rode about 50 miles

 

[paid4c4]

With all that linkage on your 1500 I'd say something has to be binding somewhere..... my 1800 is simple and has no problem other than I had to mount the arm backward to gain some length with the Floorboards & Aqua Shields on my Roadsmith Trike....

i would appreciate the model and manufacture of the shift controls and floor board in these photos. I would like to try the I'm GL Motor Trike.
Thanks
Bill