Electrical Issue 2022 TriGlide

Mar 8, 2023
38
31
Levittown, PA
Name
Anthony
[FONT=&quot]Need some assistance. I was changing my levers on my 2022 Tri-Glide. I did the clutch side first and tested, everything was okay. After doing the brake side I developed an electrical issue.Headlamp, tail lights, brake light (if rear brake pedal is applied) and fuel pump work fine. Nothing else does (i.e. No start, no radio, no horn or turn signals). I checked all the fuses and they all look fine. I even replaced them.

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[FONT=&quot]Any thoughts?

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Need some assistance. I was changing my levers on my 2022 Tri-Glide. I did the clutch side first and tested, everything was okay. After doing the brake side I developed an electrical issue.Headlamp, tail lights, brake light (if rear brake pedal is applied) and fuel pump work fine. Nothing else does (i.e. No start, no radio, no horn or turn signals). I checked all the fuses and they all look fine. I even replaced them.









Any thoughts?


Those brake switch's break / damage easily they are very delicate, You might need a new one..?
 
Did you take the switch half's apart when doing the job?

See # 17 below

Medium
 
Open them back up and check for pinched wires, pay attention to the ribbon wire @ the bottom of the RS switch

# 4 in the diagram

I gave up and I'm going to have the dealer pick it up tomorrow or Saturday. I'm actually pretty mechanically inclined and do well with electrical crap, but this 1 has me stumped.
 
I gave up and I'm going to have the dealer pick it up tomorrow or Saturday. I'm actually pretty mechanically inclined and do well with electrical crap, but this 1 has me stumped.

Post back when you find out, this will surely help others in the future

Best of luck to you
 
I had something like that happen to me when I installed heated grips on a 05 ultra a few years back. The speedometer, tach, the lights in these gauges, directional's, horn and radio controls on the handle bars were all dead. None of the warning lights in the speedo would work. It would not give any codes but the 4 ways would flash 6 times when the ignition was turned on. It ended up being blown fuse for the accessories. The grips were wired into the accessories plug in the fairing and one of the wires got pinched and shorted out in the handle bar. This probably wont help you but these things can be a big pain. If you have a short, they can do funny things.
 
Problem solved...pinch wire in the clutch side. Bad news is that I need a clutch safety switch

Don't feel too bad.......There have been numerous safety switches on the handle bars that had to be replaced after work was done on the bars...Like putting on new grips or new levers...ETC.....Those switches are delicate...
 
Why must the switch module be replaced if the issue was a pinched wire?

The wire harness is not part of the module...

Actually all is fine now. I did not realize that in order to start the Tr-Glide in gear that both the clutch & brake must be applied.
 
Actually all is fine now. I did not realize that in order to start the Tr-Glide in gear that both the clutch & brake must be applied.

Doesn't make any sense ......If you go back it your first post you say....No radio no horn no turn signals ??....The cluch and brake Do not need to be applied for them to work..:Shrug:...........
 
Doesn't make any sense ......If you go back it your first post you say....No radio no horn no turn signals ??....The cluch and brake Do not need to be applied for them to work..:Shrug:...........

The main/only issue was a pinched wire at the clutch perch which was cause al of the electrical issues. After resolving that issue, I tried to start the bike in gear with only the clutch engaged. At that point I assumed I had screwed up the clutch safety switch not knowing that I also had to apply a brake.
 
The main/only issue was a pinched wire at the clutch perch which was cause al of the electrical issues. After resolving that issue, I tried to start the bike in gear with only the clutch engaged. At that point I assumed I had screwed up the clutch safety switch not knowing that I also had to apply a brake.

Thanks for Splaining it more better..
 
That situation has probably happened more times than can be counted, that and having the kill switch off don't ask me how I know :confused:
 
That situation has probably happened more times than can be counted, that and having the kill switch off don't ask me how I know :confused:

Ive done this more times than i care to Admit ......While monkeying around in my garage i would turn the ignition switch all the way to the right so as to listen to the radio.....

Then after a while when i wanted to move the trike...I would sit on it press on the brake and hit the start button......Then, Oh shit nothing is happing whats wrong now, Did leaving the radio on all that time drain the battery....:gah: ....:laugh:..Then i remembered the ignition switch has to be in the on position mark..(Whew)-(Whew).......
 
Ive done this more times than i care to Admit ......While monkeying around in my garage i would turn the ignition switch all the way to the right so as to listen to the radio.....

Then after a while when i wanted to move the trike...I would sit on it press on the brake and hit the start button......Then, Oh shit nothing is happing whats wrong now, Did leaving the radio on all that time drain the battery....:gah: ....:laugh:..Then i remembered the ignition switch has to be in the on position mark..(Whew)-(Whew).......

That's Funny. Likely something I would do also.
 

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