A Question of Jacking

Jan 29, 2012
18
0
everett. WA, US
Hello,

I want to replace my stock HD rear brake pads with Lyndalls, so I need to jack up the rear end. The HD shop manual says tie the front wheel down, place bike jack under frame at the clutch and lift.

Since I don't have a bike stand I can't really tie the front end down. I find that with the trike on the jack and front wheel in the air it is very easy to apply lift to the back end and get the left rear wheel off the ground. Not so much with the right rear. Jeez how much does the parking brake weigh??!!

I found I can put a second jack under the right side where the rear frame meets the front and apply enough lift to get RR off the ground. This is really Micky Mouse in my opinion.

How does everybody else do this? Thanks
 
Hello,

I want to replace my stock HD rear brake pads with Lyndalls, so I need to jack up the rear end. The HD shop manual says tie the front wheel down, place bike jack under frame at the clutch and lift.

Since I don't have a bike stand I can't really tie the front end down. I find that with the trike on the jack and front wheel in the air it is very easy to apply lift to the back end and get the left rear wheel off the ground. Not so much with the right rear. Jeez how much does the parking brake weigh??!!

I found I can put a second jack under the right side where the rear frame meets the front and apply enough lift to get RR off the ground. This is really Micky Mouse in my opinion.

How does everybody else do this? Thanks
They are surprisingly inexpensive at harbor freight.

If i go under the clutch it lifts my entire bike off the ground.
Otherwise i use a hydraulic jack in the rear and employ jack stands.
Removing the wheel is another issue and i just don't see any way improve the hassle.

Settle down and prepare yourself for a pain in the butt and just go for safety?
 
Jack it up with floor jack under axle at tie down loops on each side of axle. After jacking one side up, place jack stand under rear cross member between mufflers. Jack up other side and do the same.
Dennis
 
+1 on the jack stands. I place a piece of 1x3 strip of wood between the frame and jack stands. I also use my front parking brake (a velcro strap wrapped around front brake and grip). Seems safe and sturdy to me.
 
+1 on the jack stands. I place a piece of 1x3 strip of wood between the frame and jack stands. I also use my front parking brake (a velcro strap wrapped around front brake and grip). Seems safe and sturdy to me.
i will buy that, i forgot to mention the electrical zip tie i use on the front brake lever.
 
Hello,

I want to replace my stock HD rear brake pads with Lyndalls, so I need to jack up the rear end. The HD shop manual says tie the front wheel down, place bike jack under frame at the clutch and lift.

Since I don't have a bike stand I can't really tie the front end down. I find that with the trike on the jack and front wheel in the air it is very easy to apply lift to the back end and get the left rear wheel off the ground. Not so much with the right rear. Jeez how much does the parking brake weigh??!!

I found I can put a second jack under the right side where the rear frame meets the front and apply enough lift to get RR off the ground. This is really Micky Mouse in my opinion.

How does everybody else do this? Thanks
I just had my rotors & pads changed yesterday & the lifts were all filled so the mechanic did it in the middle of the floor with a jack.
He used a screw scissor jack, & lifted one side at a time . Worked great. Just put the jack under the tie-down link area like mentioned before. The tires just cleared the fenders.
The only stupid part he didn't do was take the black paint off the new rotors ! Burning paint stinks !! By the time I got home rotors were clean, but I don't think the pads are clean yet. The brakes are bad while you have paint on the rotors also ! But it keeps the squeal down !!:laugh:
 
I just had my rotors & pads changed yesterday & the lifts were all filled so the mechanic did it in the middle of the floor with a jack.
He used a screw scissor jack, & lifted one side at a time . Worked great. Just put the jack under the tie-down link area like mentioned before. The tires just cleared the fenders.
The only stupid part he didn't do was take the black paint off the new rotors ! Burning paint stinks !! By the time I got home rotors were clean, but I don't think the pads are clean yet. The brakes are bad while you have paint on the rotors also ! But it keeps the squeal down !!:laugh:

Down side it you may have a glaze on the pads now.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I do have the Harbor Freight bike jack but even under the clutch it does not lift the back at all- the front is another story.

If I put a jack under the axel there is not enough room put a stand next to it. I am reluctant to put jack stands under the cross members as the shop manual is pretty emphatic about not using the cross members to jack up the bike. Sounds like it is being done however.

Anyway, thanks again for the insight(s).

Cap'n Pete
 
Since you have a bike jack you can take a 2 x 4 long enough to span your mufflers and place it on the bike jack frame cross members. Come in from the back to the trike, slide the bike jack in with the 2 x 4 on the frame cross members and then jack up the back of the trike. To be on the safe side either put a wheel chock in front of the front tire or zip tie the front brake lever.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I do have the Harbor Freight bike jack but even under the clutch it does not lift the back at all- the front is another story.

If I put a jack under the axel there is not enough room put a stand next to it. I am reluctant to put jack stands under the cross members as the shop manual is pretty emphatic about not using the cross members to jack up the bike. Sounds like it is being done however.

Anyway, thanks again for the insight(s).

Cap'n Pete

What Harley tells you not to do is use the rear end housing to jack on. If you go under the area that has the chain links welded on the housing, you are off the critical area of the rear end housing. As far as the cross members go, I wouldn't use them. If you are refering to the cross members under the trunk. If anything was to slip, you would be digging it out of the inside of the trunk!
If you are lifting the complete rear of the trike up at once,,,,, remember you only have ONE wheel on the other end to balance things on until you get stands under the axle..... Just say'n !:AGGHH:
 
I have 2 of the Harbor Freight Racing Jacks (On sale once in a while for $69.00). I place each jack on the frame tie downs (chain link), kneel between the jacks and pump both of them up at the same time. Lifts the rear up enough to remove tires in about 10 seconds.......Easy.
 
Moe55 that jack looks good. You say there are others, do you have any info on them? I would think even with the 1,000 LB capacity you would be ok just lifting the front or rear only.
 
Moe55 that jack looks good. You say there are others, do you have any info on them? I would think even with the 1,000 LB capacity you would be ok just lifting the front or rear only.
Looked up jacks on Google there was one that was close to this one it was only $10 cheaper but made out of aluminum not steel this had a wider foot print on the ground plus it is not very light. That said I am very happy with it and it beats a J&S jack for $600 kind out of my price range.
 
I drilled and anchored a short ratchet strap to the garage floor I run the strap through the front tire rim tighten it down to the floor
then just put motorcycle jack under frame at clutch area works great . If I want to get the trike up off the floor I drive the bike onto car ramps and use the motorcycle jack under the frame toward the front to jack it up level then I use 2scissor jacks at the rear hold down anchor loops on the rear to raise Trike enough to remove the car ramps. then when I'm done I just reverse the process . Poor people adapt and overcome
 

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