2017 Tri Stalling

[hddocfl]

I have been having a stall problem on my 2017, Coming to a light and stopping it has stalled on me a few times eims is not on by choice but will stall with it on also. Anyone else have this problem and what was the cure Bone stock Tri with 2" Full Sac baffles only. Thanks Doc

 

[rhino 2]

I have been having a stall problem on my 2017, Coming to a light and stopping it has stalled on me a few times eims is not on by choice but will stall with it on also. Anyone else have this problem and what was the cure Bone stock Tri with 2" Full Sac baffles only. Thanks Doc

Might not be whats causing your stalling, But this i the first time i stalled a bike in 40+ years, I also have a 17 bone stock, The first few days i had it , Because of the very narrow cluch action i stalled it a few times....I have 9 hundred miles on it now and I'm getting used to it, But i do have an adjustable cluch lever on order...

 

[Jack Klarich]

Look here first

Harley Trouble Codes

The following procedure will instruct in retrieving and clearing ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes and TSM/TSSM codes through the Harley guage cluster as well as a list of codes.

1- Turn Ignition switchto OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer resetbutton in & hold.

3- Turnignition switchto Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer resetbutton once and you will seethe selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer resetbutton one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])

S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)

SP = speedometer

T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer resetbutton in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer resetbutton again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer resetbutton. Part number of module will be displayed.

NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

--------------------------

HFSM = Hands Free Security Module

TSM = Turn signalmodule

DTC’s are designated by a P,C,B or U

P codes indicate issues monitored by ECM

C codes indicate an issue with ABS

B codes are set by Radio, Instruments and BCM

U codes indicate a communication problems with the modules



Fault Code Abbreviation List

ABS – Anti-Lock Braking System

ACR – Automatic Compression Release

AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

AIS – Active Intake Solenoid

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

BCM – Body Control Module

CAN – Controller Area Network

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor

DLC – Datalink Connector

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

ECM – Electronic Control Module

ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature

ECU – Electronic Control Unit

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EFP – Electronic Fuel Pump

ET – Engine Temperature sensor

FI – Fuel Injectors

FPR – Fuel Pressure regulator

H-DSSS – Harley-Davidson Smart Security System

HCU – Hydraulic Control Unit, ABS

[/stag_one_half][stag_one_half_last] HFSM – Hands Free Security Module

HO2S – Heated Oxygen Sensor

IAC – Idle Air Control actuator

IAT – Intake Air Temperature sensor

ICM – Ignition Control Module

IMAP – MAP + IAT in one unit

ISS – Ion Sensing System

JSS – Jiffy Stand Sensor

LHCM – Left Hand Control Module

MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

MHR – Right Hand Control Module

RCM – Reverse Control Module

TCA – Throttle Control Actuator

TGS – Twist Grip Sensor

TMAP – Intake Air Temperature / Manifold Absolute Pressure equipment

TPS – Throttle Position Sensor

TSM / TSSM – (Turn Signal / Turn Signal Security Module)

VE – Volume Efficiency

VIN – Vehicle identification number

VSS – Vehicle Speed ​​Sensor

WSS – Wheel Speed ​​Sensor

• P Codes
  
• C Codes
  
• B Codes
  
• U Codes
  

P0031 Front HO2S low/open

P0032 Front HO2S shorted/high

P0051 Rear HO2S low/open

P0052 Rear HO2S shorted/high

P0072 AAT sensor low

P0073 AAT sensor high/open

P0107 MAP sensor failed low/open

P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low

P0108 MAP sensor failed high/open port

P0112 IAT Voltage Low

P0113 IAT Voltage Open/High

P0117 ET Sensor Low

P0118 ET Sensor High

P0120 TPS1 Range Error

P0122 TPS1 Low

P0123 TPS2 High/Open

P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low / Engine Lean

P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich

P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive

P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low / Engine Lean

P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich

P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive

P0220 TPS2 Range Error

P0222 TPS2 Low/Open

P0223 TPS2 High/Open

P0261 Front Injector Open/Low

P0262 Front Injector High

P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low

P0264 Rear Injector High

P0265 Rear injector shorted high

P0371 CKP sensor wrong number of pulses

P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent

P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error

P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low

P0445 Purge Solenoid High

P0501 VSS Sensor Low

P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open

P0503 VSS failed high

P0505 Idle speed control unstable

P0562 Battery/ECM Voltage Low

P0563 Battery/ECM Voltage High

P0572 Brake Switch Low

P0577 Cruise Control Input High

P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error

P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error

P0641 5 Volt Reference 1 Out of Range

P0651 5 Volt Reference 2 Out of Range

P0691 Fan/cooling relay output low/open

P0692 Fan/cooling relay output high

P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low

P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted

P1003 System relay contacts open

P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed

P1009 VTD Disabled Fuel Due to Incorrect Password

P1010 Missing Password

P1017 ET indicates overheating

P1019 ECT Difference (high temp)

P1270 TGS 2 A/D Validation Error

P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low

P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted

P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion

P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low

P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted

P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion

P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent

P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent

P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error

P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low

P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High

P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low

P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High

P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode

P1511 EFI Power Management Mode

P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode

P1514 ETC Air Flow Fault/Error

P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error / Watchdog Error

P1608 Loss of continuous battery

P1655 ACR solenoid low/open

P1656 ACR solenoid shorted high

P1691 Cooling fan left low/open

P1692 Cooling fan left shorted high

P1693 Cooling fan right low/open

P1694 Cooling fan right shorted high

P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open

P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)

P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low

P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High

P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown

P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault

P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body RangePerformance

P2122 TGS1 Low/Open

P2123 TGS1 High

P2127 TGS2 Low/Open

P2128 TGS2 High

P2135 TPS Correlation Error

P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)

P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned

P2184 ECT sensor low

P2185 ECT sensor high

P2300 Ignition coil driver low/open (front)

P2301 Ignition coil driver shorted high (front)

P2303 Ignition coil driver low/open (rear)

P2304 Ignition coil driver s Make sure U have no DTC in the ECM

Make sure ur battery is fully charged @ 12.7 volts, clean and tighten ALL the connections

• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

• AC Output Check:
  

1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
   
2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
   
3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
   
4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
   
5. Generic Specs:
   

• 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  
• 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  
• 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  

• Stator Resistance Check:
  

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
   
2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
   
3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
   
4. Generic Specs:
   

• 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
  
• 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  
• 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  

• Stator IB test or Ground Check:
  

1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
   
2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
   
3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
   
4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
   

5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

• Identifying Wires:
  

1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
   
2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
   
3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
   

• Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
  

• Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
  

1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
   
2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
   
3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
   
4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
   
5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
   
6. The reading should be Infinite.
   
7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
   
8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
   
9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
   
10. The reading should be Infinite.
    
11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
    

Positive Lead	Negative Lead	Reading
AC output 1	Battery charge lead	Voltage
AC output 2	Battery Charge Lead	Voltage
Battery charge lead	AC output 1	∞
Battery charge lead	AC output 2	∞
Ground	AC output 1	Voltage
Ground	AC output 2	Voltage
AC output 1	Ground	∞
AC output 2	Ground	∞

Replacement Components

Batteries

350-430 (97-09 FLT, FLH, FLHT Dressers)

350-431 (82-94 FXR, 84-90 Softail, 71-86 FX, 79-96 XL)

350-432 (91-09 Softail, 97-09 Dyna, 97-03 XL)

350-433 (80-96 FLT, FLHT, 93-96 FLHR)

Stators:

380-864 (L84-90 XL)

240-556 (91-06 XL)

381-259 (70-75 Big Twin 15 Amp)

381-084 (76-80 Big Twin17.8 Amp)

381-260 (81-88 Big Twin 22Amp)

381-202 (89-99 Big Twin 32 Amp)

381-596 (00 Softail, 99-03 Dyna)

381-594 (99-01 Touring)

381-595 (02-05 Touring)

Regulators: (Offered in Chrome and Black, Black Part numbers listed below)

380-798 (84-85 XL)

381-177 (86-90 XL)

381-014 (91 XL)

380-797 (92-93 XL)

380-485 (94-03 XL)

381-835 (04-06 XL)

383-089 (07 XL)

381-252 (70-75 Big Twin)

381-328 (76-80 Big Twin)

381-327 (81-88 Big Twin)

381-277 (89-99 Big Twin)

381-605 (00 Softail)

381-603 (97-01 Touring)

381-606 (00-03 Dyna)

Rotors:

380-373 (70-06 Big Twin 18, 22, 32 Amp Systems)

380-374 (95-06 Big Twin 38 Amp Systems)

380-375 (97-05 Big Twin 45/48 Amp Systems)

383-640 (84-90 XL)

383-641 (91-03 XL)

383-642 (04-09 XL)

Check this also, Most problems IMO are results of the last modification made to ur bike if any JMO











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[Mykneesbehurtin]

My 17 has a annoying issue with the idle when coming up to a stop and once stopped the idle will drop to approx. 500 rpm then go back to 1100 then back to 500 then settle in at 850.I had it back to the dealer and they did a new download on the ecm and it was okay for several hundred miles now its back at it again,looks like another trip to the dealer.

 

[hddocfl]

Might not be whats causing your stalling, But this i the first time i stalled a bike in 40+ years, I also have a 17 bone stock, The first few days i had it , Because of the very narrow cluch action i stalled it a few times....I have 9 hundred miles on it now and I'm getting used to it, But i do have an adjustable cluch lever on order...

I bought the Hog Lever clutch, Its not me stalling the Tri. Thanks

 

[hddocfl]

My 17 has a annoying issue with the idle when coming up to a stop and once stopped the idle will drop to approx. 500 rpm then go back to 1100 then back to 500 then settle in at 850.I had it back to the dealer and they did a new download on the ecm and it was okay for several hundred miles now its back at it again,looks like another trip to the dealer.

This is what my Tri is doing but it will also stall. Thanks Doc

 

[hddocfl]

Thanks Jack

I have no codes showing present or historic. I guess I,ll give the dealer a call.

 

[Casper]

Don't have the stalling issue but I don't like the low idle at all. 850 to 900 is not what I would like, ill sometimes use the throttle to keep it at about 1000-1100 rpms....

can the dealer adjust this? I know a tuner will

 

[hddocfl]

Don't have the stalling issue but I don't like the low idle at all. 850 to 900 is not what I would like, ill sometimes use the throttle to keep it at about 1000-1100 rpms....

can the dealer adjust this? I know a tuner will

I was thinking of a tuner also but the dealer as a all stock attitude as for warranty work.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Don't have the stalling issue but I don't like the low idle at all. 850 to 900 is not what I would like, ill sometimes use the throttle to keep it at about 1000-1100 rpms....

can the dealer adjust this? I know a tuner will

YUP, The dealer can set your idle up

In Fact HD is already talking about that

IMO it should be FREE

With a tuner I can set mine any where I want

I have my low set -50 from 900

My high is + 50 from 900 right now, it comes in @ 900 most of the time, I may set it up a bit more, this has made for a better running engine and I cant remember the last time I had to slip the clutch.

IMO the dealer should be doing this idle for free, But I bet since they have to scan it they are going to charge an hour labor HOPE NOT

 

[hddocfl]

YUP, The dealer can set your idle up

In Fact HD is already talking about that

IMO it should be FREE

With a tuner I can set mine any where I want

I have my low set -50 from 900

My high is + 50 from 900 right now, it comes in @ 900 most of the time, I may set it up a bit more, this has made for a better running engine and I cant remember the last time I had to slip the clutch.

IMO the dealer should be doing this idle for free, But I bet since they have to scan it they are going to charge an hour labor HOPE NOT

I am going to see if the dealer will kick up the idle as I believe this is my culprit.

 

[Jack Klarich]

I am going to see if the dealer will kick up the idle as I believe this is my culprit.

They should, Mention they have an internal memo They will say baloney, But I have seen it

It aint for our eyes Just Sayin They may want to charge U an hr labor to flash ur puter This 2 is BALONEY JMO

This can be done by a good PUTER HACKER with a bootleg windows program, but my lips are sealed

Good Luck and tell us how it goes

 

[hddocfl]

They should, Mention they have an internal memo They will say baloney, But I have seen it

It aint for our eyes Just Sayin They may want to charge U an hr labor to flash ur puter This 2 is BALONEY JMO

This can be done by a good PUTER HACKER with a bootleg windows program, but my lips are sealed

Good Luck and tell us how it goes

I am about to contact the dealer here, Hope it is free. Thanks

 

[gfaltersack]

2017 harley wanting to stall

i HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM BUT ALSO HAD THE PROBLEM OF NOT STARTING IN GEAR EVEN THOUGH i HAD FOOT ON BRAKE AND CLUTCH PULLED IN. i FOUND THE ANSWER ON Harley FORUMS AND WHEN TELLING MY DEALER (WHO COULD NOT LOCATE THE PROBLEM) THEY GOT MAD WHEN i SAID OTHERS HAD SUCCESS CHANGING OUT THE CLUTCH SWITCH

THERE MAY BE OTHER ISSUES BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE MY STORY!!