i understand your pain with those alternators, they are a joke. the main problem with them is the windings are made from cheap material and they break the windings where they are soldered togather.
I had a valkyrie for 20 years and got ahold of a bad batch of alternators which ended in me having...
your thinking is correct, as the suspension fluctuates while riding the gauge is gonna fluctuate to. if it stays steady sitting still, then its working correctly.
that pic looks proper, the new drive shaft that MT makes is splined so that it only goes back togather one way. i had an MT kit for 20 years and never had to advance it a tooth. i just lined the yokes up. like in the pic but perfectly in alignment.
this is definitely different from what i have always done. been turning wrenches for over 40 years and i have always lined the yokes up with one another. that drive shaft in my opinion is 90 degrees out.
if the joints on the drive shaft are out of sync it will cause a vibration. the drive shaft joints should fall right in line with the one on the opposite end. the cups that are held to the shaft should be right inline with the joints on the other shaft. the cups that are attached to the rear...
repacking the bearing isn't going to work.it is a solid axle rear. the bearing is supplied oil from the differential. if you think you have a bad bearing the only way to replace it is. remove the wheel and drum. ( its been awhile then remove the diff cover pull the lock off the axle end. then...
be careful about the shop you go to. had a buddy of mine that went to a shop for chrome wheels for his roadsmith. they measured the offset but never considered the thicker portion of the wheel where the lug nuts go.
they ordered his wheels and when he went to install the the tires hit the springs.
adjust those shocks. let the shocks do what they are supposed to do which is dampen the ride and let the air bags do the support.
when i installed the larger bags i spent 6 months and thousands of miles playing with the variables of both shock adjustments and pressures in the airbags. just...
if you're refering to the bigger air bags and not the original. i would start out at 13 to 18 pound. the air pressure is going to highly depend on the weight your carrying and your road conditions. you might just have to play with the pressure to what suits you. defiantly make sure your shocks...
I like many have already said that we have run over or missed quite a few things over the years. but heres one that really stick out with me. i also still have the leather jacket. i was riding an 86, 700 honda shadow with no windshield and no face visor.
I was riding down a 2 lane road speed...
i agree with the tapering part. the reason i suggested sanding the edge is because it all depends on what you cut the airline with. if its airline cutters then there shouldn't be anything to sand off. even a razor blade would accomplish that. but i have seen guys grab side cuts to cut airline...
if you get the push in fittings, they do work great. and i also agree make sure you cut them at 90 degrees. once cut take a little piece of sand paper to go over the end of the tube. any little lip or burr on that tube will cut the oring in the fitting.
i have no clue as to why they would have not linked those bags, because even a 1 to 2# difference in those bags would be a big deal. if i were you i would T those bags togather that way both bags have equal pressure. analog gauges would not be accurate enough to fully rely on equal pressure.
those bags should be linked with one shrader valve not separate. as far as the air pump idea, thats great i had one on my valkyrie.
but keep in mind you will have to run that threw a valve that can bleed air off when you need to decrease the pressure. which that valve would not be hard to do. 12...
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