Tail light & brake light ... Lehman GTL

[CrystalPistol]

Hope everyone is doing well. Several years ago I added the 4LED Amber oval marker lights to the fronts of our GTL's fenders. they have snap on/off chrome bezels. I really liked the looks, I bent some 3/16 galvanized steel rod to fit from the lights over to the trike's frame to secure the wires to, out of range from tires. The lights have done great. Well, I kept looking at that deep unused space above the trunk, under the top trunk, it begged for a red version, so I bought one. Panelite Millenium M1 is what they are, 6.625" long, 2.19" tall, two screws at 4.625" apart, a center hole of 3/4" works for wires.

So anyway, I added the red one this past week, and when I turned it all on, it was brighter that other tail lights on the trike, bright enough to be a brake light, so I moved a wire, it'a a brake light now. It sits in a dark recessed area so it shows up great. Then I took pictures, and then … then I noticed that the two rear fender mounted tail lights and tag light were not working. They get power in a different path than other lights. I have had that seat off a half dozen times this week, looking for answers. Studying wire diagrams, looking under tape, tracing wires, even tried park position and then they work. Tonight I removed the seat again determined to find issue. Was suspecting connector C10. Found C10 in it's plastic weather box, right where it was supposed to be. Was gonna move the travel trunk and untape the wires from there back.

BUT first I set up a mirror where I could see the lower tail & tag lights while working the key in the switch. I found that a certain angle of slight pull caused them to come on, let go they went off. I took a spray can of CRC Electronic Cleaner Spray with red tube attached & inserted it into the switch and I doused it good. Now the lights work every time.

I can pull & wiggle the key in the switch, no blink. I tried again just a few minutes ago, still works perfect.

I call that a good hit!

I don't think I ever sprayed any lube in there, but maybe I did or maybe just contacts got gummed up?

Those lower diamond lights (6) have two bulbs in each, the upper bulb is with brake lights, the lower is on a switch that also activates the two LEDs on the front of the fenders like at night.

 

[CrystalPistol]

Here a few days later …



… still fixed! :clapping:

I do like the looks of these lights, and so far, they last, chrome bezels snap on/off and the chrome is holding up well on the fender ones (which are soon 10 years old) and I think using the red one for a brake center light ties in with the two fender mounted amber ones facing forward.

 

[CrystalPistol]

My mystery solved

Back a couple weeks ago I added a RED oval 4LED light under the travel trunk on my Lehman as described above. I had initially wired it to a running light circuit, but it proved to be bright enough, I decided to hook it in as a brake light. At the time, I spliced the lead from the new light into the wire leading to the trailer connector as it always came on with the brakes.

During all that, I found a potential wire fault & fixed it, and I found these three non standard (to a GL) relays under the seat. I know I put them there, I know they were put there when I was tidying up my trike's wiring years ago, but I had long sense lost my notes and I was worried I maybe added that extra 4LED oval in a bad place, besides, I just like to "know" things are right.

Today, I did some tracing, etc … testing … and I figured it out. By good luck, I wired that light in a good place. Now I have some notes I can copy into my electrical manual too. Made a chart, looks like I gave it some thought "way back when"?

Normally … hit brakes and power goes to the lower bumper 6 light's upper #194 bulbs through relay #2 and out via terminal 87A, and none of the three relays is activated as terminal 87a which is normally closed (NC).

Tow a trailer … flip switch on right handlebar control and that activates relay #1, that sends power via terminal 87 to the trailer tail lights and to relay #2 into terminal #85 which energizes that relay which then switches from the NC terminal #87a over to the NO #87 which causes current from bike's brake circuit at terminal #30 ... to go to relay #3 terminal #85 which causes it to close and send current from it's #30 out through it's #87 ... back to the now "open" #87A on relay #2 and to the trailer brake lights. Relays #1 and #3 terminals #30 each get power from the battery via 10 amp fuses. All three relays share a common ground on their terminals #86.

So, until that 1 switch is flipped, none of the three relays do anything. All three have a quenching diode in place as well. I gotta say, I think I done good there!

The two fender mount AMBER oval 4LED lights and the lower 6 #194 bulbs in the rear bumper bar lights are on a separate switch, fused but no relay. I just use them at night anyway.

My two driving lights are on a switch to themselves … as are the two "Rings of Fire", and all fused too.

I knew the results of the 4 switches … but I declare, I had forgotten the way those relays were wired. I made a drawing (well, several before I was done) , then tried to "paint" it for clarity, I should have done it all as a paint? I know, not earth shaking, maybe not post worthy even, but I was happy.

 

[Lee H. Mann]

Pandemic Cabin Fever

Les, You need to get out of the house for a while.:cxtv:

 

[CrystalPistol]

Les, You need to get out of the house for a while.:cxtv:

No doubt in my mind.

Went out and "weed eated" some while "Wife Unit" mowed … and I removed a line of stumps, modified some jack stands to use just with the trike (some three legged ones made from tubing I bought in 1970, they held Chevelles & GTOs and my old CST-10 pickup up among others, should hold the trike up so I made new engagement pads to caress the trike's frame if I'm under it, they have 3/8" pin locks) … then I redrew my diagram (while resting) from above using "Paint". Looks better to me.

 

[CrystalPistol]

Today, I was thinking … often leads down a rat hole … I should be able to do all that with just two relays. I can do a simple rerouting ofthe wires at terminals and eliminate Relay #2 all together, just have two. The wires are all in place, I will even eliminate a couple, maybe make it look less like "spaghetti candy" even. In no rush.

As it sits unless the switch is thrown, nothing happens except all brake light goes through the current relay #2 to 6 #194 bulbs and a LED brake light on the bike, but that's current through the BL switch.



If I change to just two, then that current for those lights is fed via relay from the battery, the brake light switch just trips the relay. Relay #1 basically will see no change, but a fella could trip it with Accessory power to make it automatic … or leave on the present switch feed? The biggest change is that relay #2 (was #3) would work every time the brakes are activated … but then relays do that for a living don't they? I am sure the current to switch a relay is less than that needed for those 6 #194 bulbs & 4LED light?

As it is with three relays, if a fella forgot to throw that switch, the trailer get's no tail lights and it's two brake lights are an added load on the bike's brake switch … but if I change it over … the switch just switches the trailer tails on & off, the trailer's brake lights get fed via the relay along with those extra bulbs (6 #194s & 4LED light) I mentioned … always and automatically … as long as the relays work (and as long as I remembered to plug it in). They are 30 amp relays, I use 16ga or heavier wiring too. I'd just leave that middle relay there as "backup" for use if one fails?

Less complicated is good.

 

[CrystalPistol]

… etc …

Less complicated is good.

Yes, it is. Fixed yesterday, found a shorted switch too, (blew fuse when used so fixed it).