Rear Brake Failure

[Cap'n Pete]

While backing down my driveway, my brake pedal went to the floor- no rear brakes. Once in the garage, it seems to work fine with no corrective effort on my part.

I put the Lyndell pads on the rear (which did not seem to make any difference at all) but never had the fluid circuit open. Not sure how I can have zero pedal one minute and full brakes immediately after. They do not seem spongy at all....just not very good. Also, has anyone ever replace the whole brake assemblies with an after market? Is there such a thing?

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

 

[Sloufoot]

While backing down my driveway, my brake pedal went to the floor- no rear brakes. Once in the garage, it seems to work fine with no corrective effort on my part.

I put the Lyndell pads on the rear (which did not seem to make any difference at all) but never had the fluid circuit open. Not sure how I can have zero pedal one minute and full brakes immediately after. They do not seem spongy at all....just not very good. Also, has anyone ever replace the whole brake assemblies with an after market? Is there such a thing?

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

If that was your first push on the peddle after pushing the piston back to install the new pads, it would be pushing the piston back out to "0" clearance with the pad & rotor.

 

[cavie]

That's normal. You should have pumped the brake pedal before you ever moved the bike. The initial pump put the pad back out where it belongs.

 

[DTR 11TG]

Pete, I have more questions than thoughts right now, what kind of Harley? Trike? do you have, which of the 3 style of Lyndall pads did you install, what kind of shape were your rotors in, were the new pads installed because the old were worn out or other reasons, did you check the fluid level during the pad install, how many miles have you put on the new pads and had you just installed the new pads when the problem occurred? ThumbUp
If the problem happened right after the pad install than I refer to the comments by Sloufoot & Cavie.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

I would suggest bleeding the rear brakes to make sure there is no air in the brake lines. Flushing the original fluid may help with a firmer brake pedal.

 

[Cap'n Pete]

Pete, I have more questions than thoughts right now, what kind of Harley? Trike? do you have, which of the 3 style of Lyndall pads did you install, what kind of shape were your rotors in, were the new pads installed because the old were worn out or other reasons, did you check the fluid level during the pad install, how many miles have you put on the new pads and had you just installed the new pads when the problem occurred? ThumbUp
If the problem happened right after the pad install than I refer to the comments by Sloufoot & Cavie.

Hey,

It's a 12 HD, the Gold Pads I think. Rotors looked good (only 1700 miles on Trike), replaced the pads because the rear brakes are so lame. New pads have about 75 miles on them.

I guess I will bleed them, but not this would imply they came from the factory with air in the lines. A bit much even for HD....

Thanks

 

[Cap'n Pete]

Re: Rear Brake Failure, Part Two

Just went down to verify fluid level. Looked thru sight glass but also removed cover. Definitely appears to have some kind of contamination in fluid- looks vaguely cloudy with kind of light colored stuff around outside. Does not look milky like water in oil though..... When I slam the pedal down with my hand, do not see a spurt of fluid at the surface of res, although brakes do engage.

Shop manual talks about Snap On vacuum bleeder, I have never used one. Is it worth buying or just bleed the old fashioned way?

As always, help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[msocko3]

Re: Rear Brake Failure, Part Two

Just went down to verify fluid level. Looked thru sight glass but also removed cover. Definitely appears to have some kind of contamination in fluid- looks vaguely cloudy with kind of light colored stuff around outside. Does not look milky like water in oil though..... When I slam the pedal down with my hand, do not see a spurt of fluid at the surface of res, although brakes do engage.

Shop manual talks about Snap On vacuum bleeder, I have never used one. Is it worth buying or just bleed the old fashioned way?

As always, help is appreciated. Thanks

You can bleed them either way, if your bleeding them I'd be flushing them also. I flush my brake systems every 2 years, brake fluid loves to absorb water.

 

[Sloufoot]

Re: Rear Brake Failure, Part Two

Just went down to verify fluid level. Looked thru sight glass but also removed cover. Definitely appears to have some kind of contamination in fluid- looks vaguely cloudy with kind of light colored stuff around outside. Does not look milky like water in oil though..... When I slam the pedal down with my hand, do not see a spurt of fluid at the surface of res, although brakes do engage.

Shop manual talks about Snap On vacuum bleeder, I have never used one. Is it worth buying or just bleed the old fashioned way?

As always, help is appreciated. Thanks

If you decide to do a flush or bleed with a vacuum setup, go to Harbor Freight & get yourself a "Mity-Vac" kit. Best price around for it. The Snap-on kit won't do any better job I don't think (IMHO). I use one (Mity-Vac) all the time.
But you don't have to use vacuum system. Like M3 said either way will work.