Conversion has began

I have done a few things extra along the way on this project. Or I should say done a little more work than I would have to.I pulled the gas tank off , and the top shelter off, and a few other things that don't have to be done.With the gas tank out I had more room to get to the shock and brake lines.the shock can be unbolted without removing the tank and brake lines can be done from the side and bottom. The top shelter is not to hard to get off so I just got it out of my way, but the work around it can be done with it on. I will be doing the rake as well so I won't have to work around it when I get that far along.
 
I have been trying to post general pics as I go.If any one wants a certain pic or have a ? Please ask, I will try to take the pic that you want to see or answer your ? The best I can.This is my 1st trike build so I am learning as I go
 
I got a few things done this evening,but not much to take pics of.I put the fuel switch and lights in the shelter,pulled the wires from the relay to where they will hook up to the on and off switch for the transfer pump,and hooked the wire up to the fuse box.I also hooked up the vent hose for the fuel tank and cut the tour pack bracket .This is the only modification that has to be done.The saddle bag frame has to be cut and removed from the bracket .I need to get some pics of this.
 
Thanks for keeping us updated Clint. For anyone that has never before done a trike conversion, it is a tedious process, but with the right tools and some decent mechanical skills, it's doable.

When most first timers are finished, I usually hear something like: "Now I know why it costs so much to have a dealer do the conversion. It's worth every penny!"
 


I did a test fit of the body to check for fit.There is more to do including paint before is ready to both bolted on.
 

it is a little longer than a stock wing,but is what road smith offers.Many of the trike kits are longer than stock.Motortrike is shorter.The longer trikes get the corider in front of the rear tires,they claim a better ride.
 
Today I started prepping the body for primer.There is a seam that has to be worked down after the body comes out of the mold



- - - Updated - - -



- - - Updated - - -



This seam is on both sides of the body
 
These body's require a lot of sanding to smooth out for paint.I have spent the most time and work on sanding and prep work on the body,than the rest of the work I have done on the build.I have just a little more sanding before primer is applied,then I get to sand again for paint.My big compressor blew up so I am doing all the sanding by hand,all the while my air file board and DA sander are laying in my tool box.Did I mention I have been sanding a lot.
 
Working the seams doesn't go quick hand sanding Clint. I'd be looking at renting a compressor.

I think filling the seams, sanding, prepping and sealing the body the body for final paint is probably close to half the cost of the factory paint job.
 
And that prep work is what gives that WOW to the finished paint. You don't get the WOW without that hard prep. Sorry about the compressor. Like Zook says maybe renting one is an option.
 
These body's require a lot of sanding to smooth out for paint.I have spent the most time and work on sanding and prep work on the body,than the rest of the work I have done on the build.I have just a little more sanding before primer is applied,then I get to sand again for paint.My big compressor blew up so I am doing all the sanding by hand,all the while my air file board and DA sander are laying in my tool box.Did I mention I have been sanding a lot.
For the $400.- $500.they get to have them paint ready its well worth it , take it out of the crate scuff & paint, or for about $850. primed, painted ,clear coated & buffed take out of crate & install , by the time you buy sand paper ,filler ,primer, hardner , sealer, base coat ,clear coat, hardner,tape, buffing compound you got to have $350. in materials & 5 days of sucking up hazards waste , I find just have the manufacter paint It . & I have a body shop :D
 
For the $400.- $500.they get to have them paint ready its well worth it , take it out of the crate scuff & paint, or for about $850. primed, painted ,clear coated & buffed take out of crate & install , by the time you buy sand paper ,filler ,primer, hardner , sealer, base coat ,clear coat, hardner,tape, buffing compound you got to have $350. in materials & 5 days of sucking up hazards waste , I find just have the manufacter paint It . & I have a body shop :D

Well I did want it paint ready,I even talked to zook about it.Thought that's what I was getting ,but when I picked it up at the factory ,they said they don't do that any more.Checked my bill of sale and there was no charge for prep work,so I am doing it myself.Also at the time I ordered it ,as I understood ,It was $1000 for the body and another $500 for the boards.I did not want to pay that much for paint.Now don't get me wrong,I am not saying it's not worth the money to have the factory paint it,I saw some at the factory that was painted and they were nice.

I just did not want to pay that much more for the kit,and At the time was unsure about shipping or picking it up myself.It sure would be nice if it was painted out of the box.I would have been done by now.Doing my own body work I have my hands in every part of this build,this gives me a since of accomplishment.I go to many car shows through out the year,and the cars I like the most are the cars or trucks that the owners say I did all the work myself.To me anyone can go buy a hot rod or trike already done,but it don't make them much of a craftsman.If I was in business building trikes I would order them all painted or have someone local do all the paint work.It would be to time consuming to try to do it all in house .I would starve,if I done this for a living,but I do enjoy it as a hobby.

- - - Updated - - -

Hey Road Dog,I see your location is MA.I guess that's Maine. ( I'm not to good with Writing and abbreviations.) I was in Maine in August .We went to Bar Harbor ,and Acadia national park.Very pretty part of the country.

Well I just did a search and see MA is Massachusetts .I am wrong again,but we were in your state also on our way to Maine.One thing about being married for over 30years,I have got use to being wrong.
 
Yep, only a couple of factories still offer paint ready as an option anymore, Roadsmith quit doing so quite a while back, so its either full prep and paint or no prep and paint, that's the only two options.
 
Yep, only a couple of factories still offer paint ready as an option anymore, Roadsmith quit doing so quite a while back, so its either full prep and paint or no prep and paint, that's the only two options.

This has been good for me.I haven't taken on a project that required me to pick up my paint gun in some time.What is said? If you don't use it you loose it. I am behind on technology as I am old school on this kind of work.I remember when base coat clear coat paint came out and I was afraid to use it. After I tried it the first time I have never went back.Now many are using water base paint and dry sanding everything, new ways to sand with a DA and new buffing materials,and compounds.
 
I am old school when it comes to final sanding for paint.I still wet sand.Its not done much any more,every one dry sands.I did get all the wet sanding done and it is ready for paint.
 

Welcome to the Trike Talk Community

Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things Trikes! Whether you're a seasoned rider or just starting out, this is the place to share experiences, tips, and stories about your three-wheeled adventures. Explore modifications, maintenance advice, and rides, all while connecting with fellow trike enthusiasts from around the globe

Forum statistics

Threads
55,527
Messages
806,742
Members
24,072
Latest member
DuneRider
Back
Top Bottom